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Outside freshwater recepticle

pakpak Member Posts: 114
in Heating/Plumbing & Winterizing
The T@b modification and maintenance guy today, on his youtube channel, came up with a potential flaw, in some models of the 320s. This is the recepticle vent of the outside freshwater fill spout vent not being connected. This is a biggie if it is not connected. Please take a view. Moderator please post the link. For reference, my 2017 CS-S is connected. Thank you.
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    Sharon_is_SAMSharon_is_SAM Administrator Posts: 9,497
    @pak - that was on a 2015 model.  Since then, the TaBs fresh water tank vent tubes have been attached to the fill port.  
    Sharon / 2017 T@B CSS / 2015 Toyota Sienna Minivan / Westlake, Ohio
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    DukeHewettDukeHewett Member Posts: 41
    Thanks for the heads-up on the possible flaw of the vent not being hooked up.  I opened the hatch behind the toilet on our 2015 CS-S and was happy to see the white fill hose with a clear tube zip-tied to it heading to the vent hole in the fill cover.   Big relief here!   The first photo below shows the fill hose with the smaller clear vent tube alongside.  The 2nd photo shows how we glued a piece of old mirror to the inside wall to make it easier to see the high and low Glycol levels in the reservoir.   
    In retrospect, I should have known the vent was hooked up correctly because when we'd fill the freshwater tank, the vent hole would "burp" water as the tank filled.

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    ScottGScottG Administrator Posts: 5,428
    I have a later model 2015 and the vent was properly hooked up. I get the sense there were some growing pains in those earliest models that got worked out during the 2015 production year. I also have the larger underbelly FW tank, as opposed to the under-sink tank that Mark (the video guy) had before he relocated it.

    I'm not saying that this particular vent system works well, but the vast majority of T@B owners should not need to worry about this issue, and they should definitely NOT plug that vent hole as described in the video!  
    2015 T@B S

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    fstop32fstop32 Member Posts: 362
    @ScottG, "growing pains" is a kind way of describing what appears to be a tumultuous year in the life of T@b!  I'm beginning to think my T@b was the test model on how not to do something.  You lucked out with the water tank moved below, but I guess I lucked out that I can't see any water damage below my missing vent line.  I think Mark was correct to point out the potential for a problem, perhaps he could have been a bit more clear about each owner verifying the existence of or not for the vent tubing before plugging the hole...mine did not exist  :|

    DaveR middleTN - 2015 320S  /  TV 2003 Tundra 4x4
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    ScottGScottG Administrator Posts: 5,428
    @fstop32, am I correct that you also have the smaller FW tank installed in the cabinet below the sink?
    2015 T@B S

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    fstop32fstop32 Member Posts: 362
    @ScottG, that is correct.  When I first saw "video Mark", the "man with many hands", I said to myself now that's a mod I could get into!  =)  
    Quick question...how is your tank suspended under the body?  Did they attach it in similar fashion as Mark's solution?  I would think you would want to hit some of the aluminum tubing in the floor to support the weight and handle the stress of bouncing.
    DaveR middleTN - 2015 320S  /  TV 2003 Tundra 4x4
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    ScottGScottG Administrator Posts: 5,428
    @fstop32, mine has what I can best describe as a solid steel "pocket" in the back (maybe an inch or two deep) into which the back of the tank is inserted, and a frame of metal straps in the front (see photos). Together, the prevent any fore or aft sliding of the tank. These structures appear to be bolted through the floor--I don't know how or to what they are secured on the top side. 

    The middle of the tank also sits right on the axle, at least at the edges. My tank is a little misshapen and the bottom bulges up a bit in the center. I've wondered about the possibility of the axle wearing away at the tank, but so far I've seen no obvious problems.

    I haven't watched Mark's video that closely so I'm not sure as to how his is secured. 




    2015 T@B S

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    fstop32fstop32 Member Posts: 362
    @ScottG , thanks for the pics!   What's the big white thing behind the "stent", a pvc elbow?  I can't decide if I like that nuCamp centered yours over the axle or not.  I think I would prefer it always being "tongue positive" and not have it going back and forth over the axle.  I only have 3-3/4" clearance above my axle and your tank looks thicker than that.  Is yours an "outback" model?
    Mark's 12 video project is long but there's a lot going on, from moving the pump and adding a pressure tank to adding the new tank underneath and all the plumbing.  He welded a "basket like" frame that screws to the camper bottom...only :| .  He used a lot of screws but I've not found whatever plywood is on the bottom of the body to be very substantial unless you hit aluminum framing members.  A full 7 gallon tank will weigh in at 58 lbs, assuming you can actually fill it completely.  And a partially full tank will be sloshing back and forth with considerable force during towing.  A tank with baffles would be nice.  I prefer the idea of "through the floor" bolting.  I currently have 4 holes in my floor anyway where I had to drill out the bolts holding the step so I may pursue at least locating tank bolt locations before I lay down a new floor. 
    DaveR middleTN - 2015 320S  /  TV 2003 Tundra 4x4
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    ScottGScottG Administrator Posts: 5,428
    edited December 2021
    @fstop32, yes, that is a PVC elbow. The FW fill line is solid PVC for the section that runs through the cabinets and down through the flow. The thinner plastic flex pipe is used on either end to connect to the fill port and tank respectively. The pic below is not mine but shows what I'm talking about.

    Mine is not an Outback model. I haven't measured the gap above the axle but 3-3/4" is probably about right.

    Mark's relocation of the pump caught my eye. While I'm not sure I would go through the trouble to do this, I suspect it might prove a better configuration. Although I've never taken an actual measurement, I'm under the impression that--for various reasons--it is not possible to empty the FW tank completely before the pump loses prime. This effectively means my 11 gallon FW capacity is in reality several gallons short of that. However, since I carry a 6 gallon jug and most always have a source of FW somewhere in the vicinity, I just keep the tank topped up and find other things to worry about. 

     


    2015 T@B S

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    fstop32fstop32 Member Posts: 362
    I'd love to have that sort of access to that location!  Was that a pic from a nuCamp factory tour?  I'll admit it scares me knowing all that stuff is in that space behind the shower with very little access to it.  Things running through that space like wiring harnesses is one thing but to have all that plumbing with all those connections is the stuff of bad dreams  =)
    I'm really considering moving my FW tank to the basement but I use my camper throughout the winter and I wouldn't want the pump outside the body (Mark apparently parks his over the winter).  I like the expansion tank idea and if i move the FW tank I'll move the pump + expansion to the back of that cab space where my FW tank is now.
    Too bad there isn't an access panel behind the "rock shield" on the front behind the battery/propane storage.
    DaveR middleTN - 2015 320S  /  TV 2003 Tundra 4x4
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    ScottGScottG Administrator Posts: 5,428
    It must have been a factory tour pic, but I don't recall who originally posted it. I agree that zone behind the toilet is a potential source of consternation. In some regards, I'm glad I had a leak back there and was forced to install an access panel behind the toilet when I did when I did. It still requires some T@B yoga to get down in there, but at least it is in the realm of possibility!
    2015 T@B S

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