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Heating Pads on Tanks

GherzigGherzig Member Posts: 99
in Heating/Plumbing & Winterizing
The previous owner installed heating pads on the water tanks (I think all three but am not sure).  Which brings up a couple of questions:
-I am trying to think of a time when I would need to heat the tanks when the rest of the plumbing system will be winterized.  (It does get cold here in upstate NY as you can see from the photo attached taken today)
-He also showed me that, during the installation process,  he made a mess of the Coroplast underlayment and the aluminum rails when trying to re-install them.  I can order a new sheet of Coroplast and the rails from NuCamp but I can see how difficult it might be to lie on your back under the trailer and try to stretch the Coroplast out to fit in the rails from side to side.  Does anyone have experience with this task?
Thank you.
2021 T@b 400 Boondock
       Oneonta, NY
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    Denny16Denny16 Member Posts: 5,431
    I if the trailer is Winterized, and tanks are drained, no need to use the heating pads.  The water and gray waste tanks are under the TaB, the black tank is inside the head/washroom, and the Alde system would heat this area.  The vulnerable parts are the wast drain valves, which will freeze, if not drained and blown out, or part filled around the gate valves with antifreeze.  You can wrap heating tape around the drain pipes to keep them from freezing.
     Cheers 
    2018 TaB400 Custom Boondock,  Jeep Gladiator truck, Northern California Coast.
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    Sharon_is_SAMSharon_is_SAM Administrator Posts: 9,506
    @Gherzig - it sounds like the owner intended to camp in cold weather using the plumbing, hence the tank heaters.  But, you are correct - no need to use the heaters if you are not actively using the plumbing.  You can use the toilet in the cold, but only with an antifreeze flush.
    Sharon / 2017 T@B CSS / 2015 Toyota Sienna Minivan / Westlake, Ohio
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    Dutch061Dutch061 Member Posts: 765
    edited February 2022
    I just done this project of adding heating pads etc., I just haven't put together the details to post. Maybe next week I will get it done.

    Access is simple, go to Harbor Freight and get the 13K set of ramps for $59.99 and pull the camper forward on the ramps. You will add 6 inches of ground clearance, then you have all kinds of room to access. 

    Brad
    2020 400 BDL aka "Boonie"
    2022 Black Series HQ19 aka "Cricket"
    2021 F-250 Tremor with PSD aka "Big Blue"
    Concord, NC 
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    [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 834
    edited February 2022
    Gherzig, as Sharon said, the heat pads were installed to extend your camping season into below freezing temps and still be able to use your toilet shower sink,  etc. I second what Denny said as well in that you would need a heat wrap cable for the dump vslve area. A 6ft one will reach from where the black tank pipe exists below the camper all the way wrapped around to where the gray tank pipe enters the gray tank. You would want to strategically place the cable at the actual dump valves as much as possible since plastic pipes don't conduct heat. 

    Harbor Freight also has those roller things you lay on and roll under your vehicle. That might be enough without the ramps but both would be ideal.
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    Denny16Denny16 Member Posts: 5,431
    The roller platform is called a creeper.  Used by mechanics when a hoist wasn’t available, to get under autos.
     Cheers 
    2018 TaB400 Custom Boondock,  Jeep Gladiator truck, Northern California Coast.
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    [Deleted User][Deleted User] Posts: 834
    Thanks Denny!!! I was struggling with that! I bought one too about three years ago and only used it for the first time last week to get under my Jeep to upgrade the bump stops. 
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    Dutch061Dutch061 Member Posts: 765
    edited February 2022
    A couple last comments regarding electric heating pads.

    1. Thye should never be powered on without water in the tanks.
    2. If you need to put pads on the exposed plumbing, you can easily install adhesive backed ones like the following https://www.amazon.com/Facon-Camper-Elbow-Pipe-Heater/dp/B01MUC7XI5/ref=pd_ybh_a_30?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=V8R7WD0GAZ1W2PKS802M

    I used 1 pad this size on the gray water elbow and 1 on the black water elbow. I then wrapped the entire exposed piping with reflectix, finishing it off with black gorilla tape. I would suggest that you have a separate control switch for these 2 pads. You can see our 2020 400 BDL sitting on the ramps I mentioned in my previous post.









    Brad


    2020 400 BDL aka "Boonie"
    2022 Black Series HQ19 aka "Cricket"
    2021 F-250 Tremor with PSD aka "Big Blue"
    Concord, NC 
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    GherzigGherzig Member Posts: 99
    Brad, thank you for taking the time to send the photos - they are helpful.  It appears that the Corooplast (plastic) underlayment on your Tab is attached with screws/bolts and washers as opposed the the aluminum rails mine slide in (see photos - driver side still good; passenger side not so much).  Did you remove the rails when you re-attached the Coroplast?
    Brilliant thought on using the ramps.  I have a set of steel ramps sitting in the garage for over 30 years -  from when I needed them to change the oil on my 1990's vintage Miata.  I never thought I would use them again.
    2021 T@b 400 Boondock
           Oneonta, NY
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    Dutch061Dutch061 Member Posts: 765
    Yes, I removed the screws and rails from on the sides and rear, so I could lower the underlayment. I left them in place on the front. This allowed me to lower the underlayment down and easily access the underside to install the pads and insulation. When I was finished, I put it back up. The photo below is after I put it back together. Other than seeing some "green" insulation through some exposed openings, you can't tell I was in there. But again, that is how I do things. I used the same screws and hole locations when I put it back together.



    Brad
    2020 400 BDL aka "Boonie"
    2022 Black Series HQ19 aka "Cricket"
    2021 F-250 Tremor with PSD aka "Big Blue"
    Concord, NC 
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