I have a 2015 Outback 320. No bathroom and no AC. On a recent trip with cold weather I notice that I was not getting shore power to work. Luckily I could heat with propane. Now that I am home I have been trying to cipher out what is wrong. I have checked the circuit breakers, and turned them all on and off and on. I checked all fuses I could find, including the two Alde fuses. I plugged in my RV cord, which has always worked in the past, and the little blue light lights up. I also checked that outlet in my garage and it is good. I disconnected the RV cord, and my little motorcycle volt meter in my cigarette power socket reads 12.7 (yesterday) and 12.5 today. Normally it reads 13.+ when I am plugged in at home or via Shore power. I disconnected the RV cord and the volt meter reads the same. 12.5 instead of 13.+. I disconnected the battery and there is no juice in the T@B, even with the RV cord plugged in. As per other discussions I looked for a battery disconnect switch, and a battery 1 or 2 setting and don't find them...perhaps they are not on this model. I'm pretty handy around the house but not with electrical. Looking for any suggestions, and thanks.
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2017 T@B S Max, Blue and Silver -- "The Blueb@rry"
It could be 'off' due to a bad circuit breaker (not a common failure but possible).
Since the TaB is 7-years-old it is more likely the convertor has gone bad.
The conditions in part-2 are confusing @Parando states the Alde 120vac outlet will power a test lamp, however the test lamp only works when the Shore Power and Battery are connected.
The TaB 120vac is fully isolated from the battery 12VDC. Having the battery 'off' or 'on' should have no impact on the 120vac outlets.
Is it possible @Parando did not correctly state the results/conditions?
For Reference see the first post & attached PDF file in this location:
https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/6406/electrical-resources#latest
TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
Adventures: 54 Nights: 341 Towing Miles 43,780
Otherwise, since you have no 120V AC when plugged in, this sounds like a case of shore power not making it to the power center. Keep following your connections downstream. If you are sure power is making it to the end of your cable, I would next check the connections inside the T@Bs shore power receptacle. There have been a few instances of wires in there coming loose.
The 120V AC plug on the Alde powers only the electric heating elements. If a test light worked, then the outlet has power, and the Alde should heat on electric as well.
Based on all your other reported symptoms, I'm stickin' with the story that 120V AC power isn't making it to the power center. The trick is figuring out where the circuit is broken. Good luck and keep us posted!
Shore power is routed through the main breaker. The main breaker feeds separate branch circuits serving the Alde, fridge, and air conditioner, as well as a circuit for the accessible cabin outlets (all of which are connected through the GFCI outlet adjacent to the power center).
If your test light is working in those outlets--even if it is tripping the GFCI--than getting shore power into the camper is not the problem.
So, let's back up... with the battery DISCONNECTED and the T@B plugged into shore power:
If the cabin outlets work than 120V AC power is getting to the power center and the 120V AC circuits via the circuit breaker panel.
However, the lights, fan, and the electronics of both the Alde and 3-way fridge require 12V DC power. This is provided by the converter, but the battery will provide it also if the battery is connected--this can confound diagnostics. Since none of those functions work when the battery is disconnected, than the converter is the likely culprit. Whether the converter itself is faulty or it is just not getting power from the 120V AC side, is the next question.
On my 2015, the converter receives power from the same 120V AC circuit breaker that powers the cabin outlets. If that were faulty (again as per @MuttonChops' earlier suggestion) the converter may be okay but just not receiving any power.
In either case, the fact that the GFCI on that 120V AC circuit keeps tripping is curious, and possibly related. Where exactly the problem lies (if it in fact is a problem) is difficult to say--it could be in the converter, the AC circuit breaker, the GFCI itself, or somewhere else within the outlet circuit. (It could also just be the lamp you were testing with...)
The converter itself is an integral part of the power center. I'm not sure if it can be replaced separately, but I doubt it.
Your overall description tracks with the WFCO Troubleshooting flow-chart as a bad convertor.
Picture - 1 is part of the Flow-Chart
TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
Adventures: 54 Nights: 341 Towing Miles 43,780
TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
Adventures: 54 Nights: 341 Towing Miles 43,780
Would Call WFCO customer Service and ask about . . .
- availability
- Convertor only availability
- WFCO replacement for (if obsolete) 8735-P
TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
Adventures: 54 Nights: 341 Towing Miles 43,780
2023 Tab 400 / 2022 F150 XLT Sport 3.5EB
Traded in - 2018 T@B 320 S/2019 Toyota 4Runner SR5