Cordless drill for leveler jacks

jdkoepsell · March 7

I found that my attempts to use a variable speed drill with a three-quarter inch chuck on the leveler jacks was somewhat difficult. It seemed to jump out of my hand with the leveler was fully extended, or once it was fully retracted. I found that the drill seemed to almost jump out of my hand at eith point. I was a little concerned about hurting myself as well as hurting the camper. Any experience with this, perhaps using some sort of a a drill or driver with less power?

AnOldUR · March 8

Just a heads up. Sure it's done by many owners, but if you strip the thread using a drill BAL will void the warranty.

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/h6/h37y3nq2etq6.jpg

dlb · March 8

I use the power impact driver I keep in the truck. Just be very careful when using it and set it on the lowest setting.

pthomas745 · March 8

@jdkoepsell tell us what kind of drill you are using? I've used a drill on mine since I've had the trailer. With a variable speed drill, it is important to take your time. Make sure the "bit" is firmly in place and keep control of the position of the drill and the speed.

Yoshi_TAB · March 8

Hi, if you use a drill with a variable torque setting , with a bit of experimenting, you can set it to the number that places the stabilizer foot just onto the ground , then the drill will go into free spin and not over torque or jump out of your hand. I bought a second drill body off eBay to keep in my TAB and set to the correct number.

qhumberd · March 8

@jdkoepsell Another tip I learned was to understand that keeping the drill on the lower speed setting is helpful to prevent the drill "jumping". Also remembering that the levelers can be a bit stuck when fully extended or retracted and if you attach the drill and then move the nut by hand clockwise to lower and counterclockwise to raise you can get the nut moving manually and then the drill can take over, going slow. This has worked for me and no more drill jumping.

gkreitzburg · March 8

3/8" or 1/4" ryobi are almost always on sale at home depot for under $100 I got mine last your for 69.99. just leave it and a charger in the camper -- I also keep the jack well lubed with t-9 or a good silicone based lubricant

https://www.homedepot.com/p/RYOBI-ONE-18V-Cordless-3-8-in-3-Speed-Impact-Wrench-Tool-Only-P263/308182766

jdkoepsell · March 9

pthomas745 the drill I was using is a DeWalt 20v brushless.

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/n5/mrxkxsmw0t8q.jpeg

Grumpy_G · March 9

The drill shown in the picture has a clutch mechanism with different settings. There should be a setting that doesn't kick the drill out of your hand.

pthomas745 · March 9

Have a look at the drill, and if you have the manual, grab it and review the basic settings. There are several settings that can prevent the drill from "snapping" and twisting. On the top, there is a "high and low" setting. On the ring with the numbers there are symbols for a drill, etc. By adjusting the "clutch" (those numbers) it will control how much torque the drill provides before the "clutch" disengages and saves your wrist!

I can't explain this well, but this basic YouTube video will help. All these little settings will help you get control of the drill.

(Apologize if you already know this stuff...the video below was a good review for me!)

And: Tripoley! Can't begin to tell you how much fun that game used to be "way back when" out camping with my friends and parents!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e1u6DF12MN4

jdkoepsell · March 14

Thanks for your comments. I hadn't understood how my drill worked, with the clutch mechanism. I experimented a bit and seems to work best set at 9, sometimes needing a nudge with a hand or higher setting when fully extended or retracted.

Maxcamp · March 16

My 2cents.

A 20v drill is strong enough to drive right through lumber and break heads off LVL fasteners without torque control.

At limits of jackscrew motion in dark/rain/sleet it is perilously easy to overtorque, causing damage to gear... or your face if bent over! Two hits in a year led me to go back to hand gear only.

Noisy drill clutches can be obnoxiously loud and unwelcome at early or late camp hours.

Things to be aware of.

SLJ · March 17

This cordless drill from Harbor freight has a torque setting and will work just fine.
https://www.harborfreight.com/20v-cordless-12-in-drilldriver-kit-with-2-ah-battery-and-charger-73216.html

jbajor · March 21

Ah... the beauty of the quiet simplicity of the hand crank. Never fails! AND I don't have to reach way under the trailer to access the bolt. I have been looked at with envy when neighbors in their big trailers need to crank up stabilizer supports and their battery goes dead on their impact driver!

bjn2 · March 30

I use a Makita cordless drill that has two speeds and has a ratcheting clutch for driving screws. Use the slow speed for raising and lowering the hitch and levelers. Use it in the clutch mode if you have a problem with the drill torquing out of your hand. The drill model I have has variable speeds so I can test at slow speed before fully depressing the trigger. I have a tire pump that uses the same Makita battery as well as a blower/inflator for our inflatable canoe and kayaks. I carry a charger for extended trips, but a single large capacity 18V battery lasts a long time. I also plan to build a few screw-in tent stakes using long lag screws. These can be driven into compacted gravel and other unfriendly ground using the impact driver mode of the drill. I use an extension so I don't have to reach way under the trailer with the drill and socket. And if for some crazy reason I found myself without battery power, I have a nice ratchet handle in my socket wrench set.

Cordless drill for leveler jacks

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