Picked up T@B today, I'm like a deer in headlights.

Floridaloha · September 2016

OK, maybe it's not that bad, but I don't feel very...comfortable right now. I have spent literally months reading this forum and making notes and checklists, but now my new 2016 T@B Outback is in the driveway attached to my TV and I'm thinking...now what? So I know that the first thing I need to do is to take it to a big lot and practice backing up, and I'm ready to do that starting tomorrow. But I'm not sure I have everything I need safety-wise or accessory-wise, and the dealer did a marginal job in showing me how to work everything and what I still might need to buy. I don't think this dealer has had a lot of experience with T@Bs and a lot of questions I asked him I don't think he'd ever considered. He didn't know about Alde fuses, he said he never has seen T@Bs fuses blow. I am just so inexperienced that I'm just afraid to do something wrong.

The dealer walk-through guy said that the diamond plate aluminum cargo box on the Outback was plastic. I knew then that I probably knew more about this thing than he did at this point. He also told me about encountering Big Foot when he was trailering in the northeast. And he was serious. So...you can imagine why I might be a little nervous he missed a few things.

My goal is to drive this from FL to West Virginia in about 2 weeks. So I want to be sure I have everything I need. I want to take it out in a few days and test-camp it at a local state park with hookups.

I bought a BAL leveler and brought it with me. The dealer had never seen one. So I have to figure out how to use it myself. He also did not go over how to determine level on the trailer. I think I know how to do that from the discussions here. The T@B looks a little like the back end is raised up more than it should be...? I have no way of knowing.

When I drove it home it seemed OK but it bumped up and down a little bit on occasion. I'm not sure if this is normal because I don't know what "normal" is yet. I unplugged the TV cord and set the T@B battery to off for the night.

The Trimax wheel lock I bought I think is the wrong size for the Outback wheels, which are larger (16"). But I don't know this for sure, maybe I'm just putting it on the tire wrong, but it doesn't seem to fit right. He also seemed to gloss over whatever other security things I might need. I plan to get one of those good locks for the trailer that others have mentioned here for when it is uncoupled from the car, but it would be good to know what to use when it's connected to the TV.

The accessory starter kit looks OK but I am not sure if I should get better hoses and connectors than what came with it. It is an EXCOUPLER RV ACCESSORY STARTER KIT.

Anyway...nervous about what I should do next. I guess I'm looking for some reassurance...or something.

Verna · September 2016

First of all, calm down. Bouncing is normal until you get some of your "stuff" in the cabin.

Check where you bought the tire lock from to see if it is supposed to fit your tires (I don't have an Outback).

I have the Rhino sewer hoses, a 15' and a 10' extension. A 25' white or blue fresh water hose is good, and don't forget a brass pressure relief valve.

There is a discussion that describes things that "newbies" should have. Pick and choose, and remember that Walmart or Campibg World have most items you'll need if you forget something. You really need to get a basic kit and then go camping. If you buy everything g everyone says to buy you'll need an extension to your tow vehicle

Floridaloha · September 2016

Thanks Verna. I am new to camping, so all of this seems a little overwhelming. I don't want to break the bank and buy everything at once, so right now I have to figure out what is necessary and what is nice to have.

I guess I'm excited, but at the same time I'm just worried about doing something wrong/wrecking the thing, etc. It's probably just newbie nerves.

Verna · September 2016

You'll need some toilet black tank deodorizer. I buy the Camco packets in the orange bag from Walmart. They work for me.

(As soon as one person mentions a particular brand, someone else will mention their favorite brand, by the way.)

You have the Bal, so you don't need Lego blocks.

You'll need chock blocks to put in front and behind the tires to keep it from rolling.

The stabilizers are at each corner of the T@B underneath. You should have a black long handled socket tool to raise and lower the stabilizers. You can get a packet of 4 plastic blocks to put under the stabilizers to keep the stabilizer pads from sinking into the sand, mud or some hot asphalt.

I recommend a Surge Protector. Do some reading here and decide how much you want to spend. Mine cost under $100

Photomom · September 2016

Bigfoot, huh.

The very first thing to do, if you haven't done it, is to disconnect the trailer from your vehicle so the battery doesn't run down.

Photomom · September 2016

Oh and don't hesitate to ask questions here. No one has asked more newbie questions than I and people have been very kind and patient in answering them.

Nomad · September 2016

Relax :-)
I swore I'd never, ever go camping - but I don't consider the T@B really camping - and I drove off the lot and started. There's nothing to get overwhelmed with.
Take it step by step and post whatever questions yo have here. We were all, at one point, going "what do I do now".
You'll be an old pro in no time. :-)

Nomad · September 2016

Just a note: T@B manufacturing does not supply accessories like a dump hose (nor battery and propane tank). Those are added by the dealer and they usually add the cheapest thing they can. Ask what they're adding and make adjustments.
I threw my dealers dump hose in a dumpster. Specify exactly what you want your dealer to provide.

Tabaz · September 2016

Make sure your tow vehicle lug wrench fits your Outback lug nuts.
Buy two orange safety cones at HomeDepot and use them to practice backing up.
Put a spare set of keys (all of them) in your TV when camping.
Buy the following extended handle ratchet bar for use with your BAL leveler:

1/2 in. Drive 18 in. Ratcheting Breaker Bar

Image: http://images.harborfreight.com/cpi/logos/PittsburghProColor.gif

Pittsburgh Professional - item#67957

It provides MUCH more leverage when raising and lowering the BAL.

Ratkity · September 2016

Just to let you know, get two sets of Lego Blocks because the stabilizers on the Outbacks are still the standard ones on regular T@Bs and the stabilizers have trouble reaching the ground when all the way extended. If there are new and longer stabilizers on the Outback, I haven't heard.

Smullis7 · September 2016

I agree with Ratkity. I have an Outback...and I'm a new owner. I use the blocks under the stabilizers often...especially the rear ones. I don't think they are longer even though the Outback sits higher. I learned more through this forum than the dealership told me...and they did a fairly decent job, but it's a ton to take in at first. Like everyone says, just breath. I've only had my Outback since late July, and I'm pretty comfortable taking it out on my own now...but at first, I was nervous even driving it to practice backing up. I also got a the Rhino hose Verna mentioned, rubber chokes and the metal locking choke...can't remember the name of it right now. BTW, you would be amazed at how quickly you get good at backing up...when you've somehow gotten yourself into a weird spot in the forest. :-)

Photomom · September 2016

It sounds like you're able to keep your trailer in your driveway - why not "camp" out there a few nights. That will give you a chance to get comfortable with how most everything works without the pressure of towing, backing, dumping, etc.

If you use a wag bag (or even double kitchen trash bags) in the toilet you can still use it without having to dump anything. If you want to practice showering just use water, no soap, and you can empty the gray tank on the driveway.

If you don't want to spend money on things like chocks and leveling pads, pieces of 2x4 work fine for chocks, and short wooden boards work for leveling pads.

I do recommend getting a 30a/15a adapter so you can plug the trailer into an outlet at your house, with a regular outdoor extension cord if needed. That will let you charge the battery and run everything in the trailer except the air conditioner.

ScottG · September 2016

Yup, relax. There's a lot to learn, but only a few things are truly critical enough to worry about. Make sure the trailer is properly attached to the tow vehicle before you move it. Make sure to chock the wheels before you unhook it. Check your tire pressure. Be careful with propane.

You will likely make mistakes and may even break something. Things can be fixed. You'll learn as you go, and as you do you will become more comfortable with your new toy.

IrishCamper74 · September 2016

New t@b! Congratulations!
Def camp in your backyard, that's what I plan on doing the first night I get it home. There are a lot of 'beginner checklists' on here, Photomom and Jenn have posted some; good to print out & keep handy until you get all of your necessities. There are also checklists for hooking up to your campsite & for when you leave & pack up.
I have also learned from PXLated, as I gather my list o' stuff, to keep it simple.
Good luck & post some pics!

Floridaloha · September 2016

Great advice all, and I'm feeling a lot better this morning! Got up and while it still was cool enough here in SW FL, had a cup of coffee in the T@B with all screen door and windows open, the fantastic fan running and NPR on the radio.

Love the idea of practicing camping in the driveway, including trying out the bathroom, and then graduating in a few days to a local state campground where I can learn to pump the thing out. I am lucky enough to have a fairly secluded tropical driveway that is as pretty as anyplace in the area I could camp. The cord isn't long enough for me to plug in (though I do have an adapter already) so I will not be using the battery much, but I'll be trying out the propane for the water heater and the refrigerator. Should I buy a longer spare power cord? This one is 25'. It's a little too hot in Florida still for camping overnight but cooler weather will come soon enough. But I'm thinking maybe investing in a generator, which would come in handy anyway here in case we have hurricane power outages.

Definitely need lego blocks for under the stabilizers. I have not tried out the BAL yet but I did get an extension handle for it a while back at Wal Mart, thanks for the tip. I'll invest in better hoses based on what I've read here in the other forum threads. I'll also call about the Trimax lock to see if I got the wrong size, I think I did. But I can use it on my little boat trailer, so no harm no foul.

First things first though, gotta sign up for insurance today.

You all are great, thank you so much for helping me to feel a lot better today. I'm sure I'll have more questions. I have done a lot of reading on this forum so I'll try not to bug you too much. I did take a picture or two but need to make them smaller before I can post.

Big hugs to all, and if you are coming through SW FL, let me know. I can handle a boondock overnight for you!

ericnliz · September 2016

Floridaloha, Sounds like a good night sleep, and getting over the "new owner" jitters gave you a little more confidence. My wife and her daughter camped in ours in the driveway the first night, turned the heat on, and just about roasted themselves out! It was mid- March, so lower 40's at night. Get yourself a good outdoor extension cord so you can plug in and enjoy the a/c, and play with EVERYTHING while you're in the driveway. Not only will you get used to things, but you'll figure out what you'll be using most often. Try to make your list of the "must haves" first, then the list of the "would like to haves" next. That's what we did, and it makes things easier not only to budget, but gives you a chance to shop around as well. You'll find the more you use your new trailer, the at home you'll get with hooking up, setting up, backing up, etc. Most importantly, get out there, and have fun, after all, that's what you bought it for

, right?

Photomom · September 2016

We found one campground we're the power outlet was on the "wrong" side of the trailer. Fortunately I had brought a regular extension cord and was able to use the site's 15a outlet using my adapter. No A/C though.

The 30a extension cords and extra water hoses are pretty cheap, and we carry those now in case we need them.

SweetlyHome · September 2016

Floridaloha, As all have said taking a deep breath and addressing things one at a time is the way we learned and adapted. The backyard / driveway camping trip is the ideal way to go and the way to build a shopping list. We have dealt with getting rid of so many extra items purchased in anticipation or having needed it once it's insane. Note that we are in blocks of wood crowd for leveling and choking and a lot of those never move from storage camping in Florida. The Bal (or Anderson) will address leveling in Florida by themselves in our experience.

Katie has made several long distance trips with out a problem. She and I would be happy to answer questions. We are over in Jupiter, are you anywhere close?

Floridaloha · September 2016

Had a small issue today, I could not get the trailer unhooked from the TV. The ball would not release. Any tricks to doing this?

Ratkity · September 2016

Sometimes moving the TV forward a tad (like put it in drive and then push the ER brake on) will do it. Other people have resorted to mallets (too soft for me) or small crow bars. I put white lithium grease under the coupler mechanism where the ball goes to help facilitate part movements. The unhitching can be a pita when at a campground where the TV is on a wee bit of a slope. I've been known to step on the bumper and do jumping jacks (without arms) to make the ball release lol.

ericnliz · September 2016

Many here have had the same issue Floridaloha, including myself. A hammer, or mallet works to get it loose. Over time and being used a little it will loosen up. Even now I have to give it a whack once in a while. Very tight fit, and as Ratkity said, if you are on a slope, it can shall we say, ...be a challenge. Pulling the handle forward towards the tow vehicle helps sometimes, but as I said, it is a very stiff, tight fit on the ball. I had to pry mine up the first time with a claw hammer it was so tight. I know it can be very frustrating, be patient and just work at it and you will figure out what works best for you. The lithium grease works good as well to help with the binding effect you are experiencing.

Floridaloha · September 2016

Thank you for the tips! I was able to get it unhitched but I have no idea how. I will get some of the lithium grease. Maybe a small crowbar or hammer would be good to carry with me, wrapped in a washcloth.

SweetlyHome, to answer your question, I am on the west coast of FL near Venice.

ericnliz · September 2016

Floridaloha, Glad you got it! Can be a challenge at times.

Cyclonic · September 2016

All I can tell you is, if I can do it, anyone can do it

Others have probably said it already, but don't go off buying the world for your T@B, instead, get out there and camp. Figure out what kind of camping you prefer and start there, getting only what you need. And most of all, have fun!

SweetlyHome · September 2016

Maybe we will cross paths in mid Florida someday. Highlands Hammock SP is one of our favorites and often has sites when no other SP have any. Everyone wants to be close to the ocean.

We had the hitch problem as well. Working some lithium grease in and time solved the issue,

sabel · September 2016

Felt the same way when we got our Outback, a little over a year ago.
Now it's family.

ericnliz · September 2016

sabel, I think we're all in the same family of T@B!

ScottG · September 2016

Floridaloha said:

Had a small issue today, I could not get the trailer unhooked from the TV. The ball would not release. Any tricks to doing this?

Nothing in my neck of the woods is completely flat, so this happens to me almost every time I park. Like Ratkity suggested, moving the tow vehicle just a fraction of an inch to relieve the pressure on the latch almost always eliminates the need to resort to demolition tools. Usually just releasing the parking brake is enough to accomplish this.

Of course, this assumes you have properly chocked the trailer wheels. If you heeded my previous suggestions, you did this before attempting to unhook the trailer!

Nomad · September 2016

Small claw hammer - it always close at hand - pop

Tabaz · September 2016

The ball on the hitch is VERY tight when new. It will loosen with time. Carry a hammer with you at all times. Note the metal ball cap must first go straight up, then back in order to release the ball itself. Move it back and forth with the TV off to get the hang of it.

Floridaloha · September 2016

Thank you for all the tips about the ball.

But here is the setback of the day.

The past few mornings I've been spending the early a.m. in the camper, catching up on news on the iPad, sipping coffee, enjoying getting to know my little space. Yesterday after doing this, I forgot to turn off the battery cutoff. I turned it off in the afternoon, so it had been set to ON for about five hours. Didn't think much of it because I'd turned everything off that I'd used, which just included the fan and the radio.

This morning when I went over to have my little morning retreat, the battery was dead. I thought, hmm...that shouldn't have happened. I'd turned everything off and it was just a couple hours.

Well, what happened is that the dealer walk through guy had set the Norcold to battery, didn't set it to off when I left the dealership, and I had not even noticed that. I hadn't used the fridge at all. I know from this wonderful group here that the fridge should be set to propane or shore power and never battery.

Anyway, bottom line is I now have a dead battery. Can I plug in to my home power using the adapter and an appropriate extension cord connected to the 30amp cord? Will this restore the charge?

Learning experience...for sure.

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Picked up T@B today, I'm like a deer in headlights.

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1/2 in. Drive 18 in. Ratcheting Breaker Bar