Alde Heater

On the original subject of the Alde Heater not working, I have found with mine that I have to have the water heater selector turned to ON in order for my Alde Heater to work!  The squiggly arrow things on the left side of the control is the water heater selector.  I put mine to two squigglys.   I have no idea why but it works and I just keep on doing it. :-)  Then I turn the thermostat wide open until I feel heat.

Bill ... Sounds like you have the analog thermostat as I do...
The squigglies on the far left (slider #1) are lightning bolts and are for if you are hooked up to power. The 2&3 positions are the same here in the U.S. If you're not hooked up to power, you can leave slider one off.
The second slider is for running on propane. If you are hooked up to electricity, this will give you a propane boost and heat things up quicker.
The third slider controls whether you want both heat and hot water or just hot water.

Right now I'm boondocked so slider 1 is off, slider 2 is on propane, and slider 3 is on both heat and hotwater - it's nippy at night here.

22.5 months to be exact :-)

BillL, the squiggly arrow things are the electrical wattage selector for the Alde, for using shore power for your heat source. They aren't the water heater selector.

One lightning bolt represents @ 950W, also, two lightning bolts represents 950W (it's a European controller being used in US), while three lightning bolts represents 1900W.

The flame indicator on the second-from-left switch represents propane as the heat source. 

You can use either electric or propane, or both, but you must have one or the other selected for the Alde to function at all.

You also must have the third-from-the-left switch on, either choosing room heat plus hot water, or only hot water.

I've attached the instruction manual for the controller, it's the European version, in many languages, but it covers it generally.

V will get her saws out, PXL! Just get out of the way if you see a "Jason" mask anywhere near the bench (j/k!!!). Verna is an AWESOME artist when it comes to woodwork.

I have an old house and several receptacles on one 20A line, so I can trip the breakers on the T@B if I turn up the Alde to full force. It's just the nature of a 1935 home. If you use an extension cord, please do not leave it coiled or on one of those "roll up" devices. Current generates heat. My bro-in-law found out the hard way that running an extension cord from the house to two chicken rotisseris on a picnic table with a coiled extra-long extension cord got hot enough to not only melt the cord, but caused a wee fire. Just unwrap the cord, no biggie. If you are drawing too much amperage from the house through a cord to the Alde while testing it at home, a breaker will flip in the house at the most.

I have to ditto the ease of the digital Alde thermostat. My backer plate looks like it was done by a kid in wood shop, but it was adequate and I made it work. I'd much rather have a Verna-made backer plate! 

PXL, I bet Elsie would send you one for free if you gave her a call and you stayed in one place for more than 10 minutes.

I offered to help PXLated last year. Maybe I should just cut a blank and he'll allow me to help him

What flavor of hardwood lumber, PXLated?  Plain or some scrolling done on it?

ScottG said:

Ratkity said:

...
I have an old house and several receptacles on one 20A line, so I can trip the breakers on the T@B if I turn up the Alde to full force. It's just the nature of a 1935 home.
...

That's peculiar. The scenario you describe should not be causing the breakers in the T@B trip. You might trip the 20A breaker in the house, if you have something else plugged into--and running--on that circuit. Otherwise, a 20A line is more than sufficient to power the Alde at full force.

(And yes, this assumes the T@B is plugged in with a sufficiently sized extension cable.)

You're right. The HOUSE breaker blows, not the T@B (flips - fortunately, it doesn't blow up anymore since the Heavy-Up).

Glad that's all it was :-)

What if I were to pull out the 20 amp fuse? Before and after each use?  Even with the breakers off it is still receiving electricity from the 12v battery.  I have tried every combo except remove the 20 amp fuse.

I am beginning to think that.i even use a surge protector. I do all the above and it still blows them. Wondering if it would be from being bounced around while driving. 12 volt is on for power to the refrigerator, I remember reading in the forum that someone put an inline off switch to the battery to alde. This might need to be done.

"Are you using slow blow 3.15A fuses? The are not supposed to be fast blow."

Am I reading this right Ratkity?  They are"not" supposed to be fast blow?  Others said to use fast blow, which I did, resulting last night huddled under the blankets, as it was late when we turned on the Alde and no heat...and we didn't want to bother...  brrrrr...... I've had both fast and slo fail on me..

We emailed the company about a water pump issue and I thought, hey, why not go for a two for....  I asked about the fuse issue and Marvin wrote back and said I could run my current ground on the Alde all the way up to the negative on the battery.  This might help.  Now, how to do that...  

Problems problems...  and to top it off, I was informed that our network health plan was hacked and someone might have stolen my identity.  Now I don’t even know who I am!! 

@TerryV6, If your identity was stolen, I doubt self-installing will work...