Norcold frig won't stay lit?

ericnliz · May 2017

Hot rod version!

@j_ntabowners, Jim, look what I found for 'ya!

Sharon_is_SAM · May 2017

The only thing that I would caution anyone considering this ARB install is if the counter is flush as opposed to the standard step up to the usual Norcold, the sink and stove are not at working height. I am going to try the step we purchased for tent use to see if washing dishes is more comfortable. Still, not a deal breaker for us.

Marceline · May 2017

SAM said:

I think that's a better arrangement than the front-loading Norcold-especially for the CSS. It looks like it has a bigger capacity and it must be way more energy efficient.

Sharon_is_SAM · May 2017

Yes, it is a 50 qt. I think it is more efficient than the 2 way, even if only due to insulation. Plus, it is very quiet. The vent under the slide allows some hot air to escape. We will see what happens with the summer heat.

dsatwork · May 2017

We have the a 2017 with the Norcold 3-way pulling with the 2016 Kia Sorento and have not been able to keep ours lit on propane either. I wonder how much the travel speed plays into this issue? We have been traveling at 70+ mph across very windy Wyoming, South Dakota and Colorado plains. We were able to keep it lit on a couple of other short trips traveling slower on SoCal freeways and up into the mountains.

Dalehelman · May 2017

Wind turbulence at higher speeds and cross winds sometimes created by large trucks, RVs, motor homes.

dsatwork · May 2017

Hey guys now I can't even light it on propane, let alone keep it lit. I did some searching to see if there is something about these side venting units, (2017 320S) but it's really hard to find stuff on my phone while camping. To complicate things the light that indicates it's running on AC isn't on either. Although it seems to be working on AC.... I'll watch that overnight. Right now the cooling vents are cold and it's at 43.2 degrees and dropping on high. Any help or suggestions would be welcomed.

Tabaz · May 2017

dsatwork - Try this: Make sure the frig is level front-to-back and side-to-side. Run a burner on the stove for a minute to expel any air bubbles in the propane line. Turn off the stove. Move the Norcold thermostat knob to the 6 o'clock position. Push in the propane start button and hold for 60 seconds after the indicator light goes on. Release the starter button VERY slowly. The frig should stay on. Good luck.

ericnliz · May 2017

@dsatwork, Absolutely agree with @Tabaz . I have to do EXACTLY what he described above when mine gets a little...shall we say "stubborn" to light. I think (at least on my part) there is a tendency to be a little impatient when holding the button in long enough for the light to stay lit.
I don't know about yours on AC, but I don't have an indicator light on mine for that setting to let me know it's either "on" or "running". I found that out when after returning home after our last trip, the fridge got turned on after plugging in at home. I had to get something out of the trailer, and heard the fridge running, so turned it off. It was 90+ degrees outside, and the thermometer inside indicated 40 degrees set on 4. Hope you get things resolved!

ScottG · May 2017

Last season, I frequently had trouble lighting the fridge (Norcold 3-way in 2015-S) on propane after arriving in camp. I followed all procedures properly, and employed the previously mentioned tricks.

Usually the fridge would light, then go right out even though I was holding down the red button. Attempts to relight were unsuccessful and often resulted in a very unsettling "pop" down in the bowels of the fridge.

After cursing and walking away for a couple hours, the fridge would always then light without incident. Since so far this has always worked, I haven't dug any deeper in to the issue, since it would likely involve pulling the fridge. When I light it after it's been sitting in my driveway, it works fine. The only common element is that the problem occurs just after parking the trailer.

I know...not much help to those seeking solutions. Just passing it along (again) in case someone has a similar experience and can offer any new insight.

ericnliz · May 2017

@ScottG, Great observation, and now that I've given what you said a little thought, I've noticed the same thing in the same situations. I'm wondering if the propane in the tank just needs to "settle" a little before trying to light the fridge. I've always tried to light it right away after getting the trailer level, so I'm thinking to let it settle first might be the key. Thoughts????

dsatwork · May 2017

Thanks for the ideas @Tabaz @ericnliz but the newer model Norcold doesn't seem to have the same settings. I have the spark button(piezo lighter), the temperature control knob and flame indicator that slides to the green when lit.

ericnliz · May 2017

@dsatwork, Yes, agree, a LOT different than mine. Thanks for the photo and the visual on that one. Still, seems like the lighting process (even with the different controls) would be similar though.

ScottG · May 2017

ericnliz said:

@ScottG, Great observation, and now that I've given what you said a little thought, I've noticed the same thing in the same situations. I'm wondering if the propane in the tank just needs to "settle" a little before trying to light the fridge. I've always tried to light it right away after getting the trailer level, so I'm thinking to let it settle first might be the key. Thoughts????

@ericnliz, I've never heard of (or experienced) propane needing to "settle" in order to do its thing, but since I've got nothing better to offer, we'll keep that idea on the table for now!

I might add that I didn't notice the problem my first season. The only thing I did different last year was not run the fridge on DC while in transit. However, I'm not sure why that would make any difference, either.

dsatwork · May 2017

Norcold pilot lit but green dial not moving. We have been using the Norcold primarily on 12v for traveling and AC for camping, but tomorrow we won't have AC and will need to run on propane....anything we can try? I opened the side vent on the bottom and verified the pilot light is on.

Verna · May 2017

Call Norcold for more hints.

dsatwork · May 2017

Verna said:

Call Norcold for more hints.

That sounded like a good idea...but Norcold won't troubleshoot propane issues. Take it to an authorized dealer they said

dsatwork · May 2017

New update....looks like it is working on propane. Temp is dropping and when you thump the flame indicator with your finger, it wants to jump towards the green side but won't stay there.

ericnliz · May 2017

@dsatwork, Are you SURE the unit isn't working on propane, and the little green dial is just not stuck? Seems if it weren't working on propane, you wouldn't even get a pilot light, since you need propane to light that pilot as well. I know this might be a REALLY silly question, but what is your propane tank level, and is it turned all the way on? Stove top working? Can you hear the spark igniter working, trying to light the stove? Can you look in to see if when you hit the igniter if anything at all happens? Have you checked the 2 fuses under the stove top for the fridge? (four screws under the rubber stoppers to remove stove top) Not real sure where your fuses would be located on your model fridge, but might be worth a look-see.
I'm trying to help you out, just running out of ideas, and NOT familiar at all with your model fridge.

dsatwork · May 2017

ericnliz said:

@dsatwork, Are you SURE the unit isn't working on propane, and the little green dial is just not stuck? Seems if it weren't working on propane, you wouldn't even get a pilot light, since you need propane to light that pilot as well. I know this might be a REALLY silly question, but what is your propane tank level, and is it turned all the way on? Stove top working? Can you hear the spark igniter working, trying to light the stove? Can you look in to see if when you hit the igniter if anything at all happens? Have you checked the 2 fuses under the stove top for the fridge? (four screws under the rubber stoppers to remove stove top) Not real sure where your fuses would be located on your model fridge, but might be worth a look-see.
I'm trying to help you out, just running out of ideas, and NOT familiar at all with your model fridge.

See above..... I think I updated my post while you wrote this out...but thanks for all the help

ericnliz · May 2017

Ah, Ha! Yipee! You were wearin' my brain out tryin' to think of all the "what could it be's"!

Now go grab a nice cool beverage, have a seat, pat yerself on the back & RELAX!

T@B University badge honestly earned for perseverance!

dsatwork · May 2017

@ericnliz on this model you kinda need that flame indicator to know when it's lit....warranty work before the next trip

ericnliz · May 2017

After that, can't say as I blame you.

Roamey · June 2017

Refrigerator update - I was thinking that diffusing the air to the gas flame like the old tin candle lanterns with the small punched holes might help. At the next Walmart, we stopped and I got some metal screening material. I cut out a piece to fit behind the vent.

It didn't work.
Next we stopped at a hardware store and I got some duct tape and put one strip on the vent to shield the flame. We have since driven through plains where high wind warning signs are posted, driving around 60 mph. I had to pass a double tanker truck on a two lane highway and reached 80 mph. It has now been four days without the gas refrigerator going out, problem solved?

We drove from Canada to Montana to Massachusetts without the refrigerator gas going out. It's now official, we like our T@B!
I have to update this - on our next trip the problem, unfortunately, returned and once again our food temperatures are rising into the fifties. This remains a big problem for me and undercuts the usefulness of the T@B. As far as I can see, the nüCamp solution is to do away with the propane entirely in the T@B 400 resulting in no refrigerator for extended periods unless you have shore power. Not the kind of camping I do.

Dalehelman · June 2017

Great to find a solution to your problem. I
think you were on the right track with the screen. We had the same problem with our previous RV. I used some open cell foam to help defuse the wind.

dsatwork · June 2017

@Roamey what made you think placing duct tape right there would work? It doesn't make since to me...if it works it works...just like to understand why it works. My theory that people who drive 60 have less of a problem... but you were having issues driving 60... .so my theory must be bunk.

Verna · June 2017

For those with the 2014 to 2016 Norcold 3-way fridges, do you travel with the auxiliary fan operating? I turn mine on when I light the fridge and it stays lit. I have traveled like this for two years now. Maybe the air being exhausted doesn't any air in to extinguish the flame?

Roamey · June 2017

@dsatwork I looked at where I thought air could get at the flame, based on people saying that it was blowing out, and I guess I got lucky. My T@B is the 2018 and I don't know of any refrigerator fans being used. Before the tape, it did stay lit one day, but more often blew out. The problem was ruining our vacation trip as we were constantly checking the fridge and worrying about spoiled food.

dsatwork · June 2017

Roamey said:

@dsatwork I looked at where I thought air could get at the flame, based on people saying that it was blowing out, and I guess I got lucky. My T@B is the 2018 and I don't know of any refrigerator fans being used. Before the tape, it did stay lit one day, but more often blew out. The problem was ruining our vacation trip as we were constantly checking the fridge and worrying about spoiled food.

Oh yeah, I get that and we had the exact same experience. What dumbfounds me about it, is that the box with the flame is completely covered and isolated. So, I assumed the air was coming in a back draft effect pushing down the exhaust pipe number 16 in this pic.

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Norcold frig won't stay lit?

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