solar power

drpprmt · July 2017

We have a new 2017 TAB and want to get a solar suitcase. Our unit has a plug for a zamp solar but I can't find out what model # or amp rating or size we need. Any ideas. Our dealer is trying to sell us one but it is very expensive and I can't get any information from him on the type unit he has. Also have not been able to find any information in our information packet. ???

BirdieJane · July 2017

We have a 2017 Tab Outback, we have the 160 watt Zamp, Has worked well this summer with our stock battery. There are some threads on solar on the forums. P.S. I ordered mine online.

jgram2 · July 2017

@drpprmt - check out the electrical and solar Category, it's on the left on my iPad when I orient to landscape. Lots of information and LOTS of discussion! Or if you've already done that, contact Zamp directly. I understand they can be helpful. As they're in Oregon, they're on PST.

Sharon_is_SAM · July 2017

First, you are not obligated to use Zamp, even though the outlet polarity is Zamp specific, there is a work around. There are much less expensive options - a popular one being Renogy which is available online/ Amazon. The usual recommendation is to match panel wattage with battery amp capacity of 20 hours. However, depending on your needs, you can get away with using the stock battery (limited amps ? around 75 maybe) with a 100 watt suitcase. A higher wattage will charge you up faster with the right conditions. Some people use solar as a trickle charger at home to keep the battery topped off. If you want to use it to effectively charge while camping, I suggest a minimum if 100 watts. There have been plenty of people disappointed in the power of a limited wattage panel sold to them by their dealers. Do your homework. You may find the need for a battery with more amps. To keep it simple, I believe there are group 24 batteries out there with 100 amp capacity. It fits nicely in the Tab tub battery footprint.

Sharon_is_SAM · July 2017

I will also add the Zamp and Renogy suitcases come with the charge controller at the panel which is less than ideal. You can purchase the Renogy suitcase with the charge controller separately to keep it closer to the battery. Not sure about this availability with the Zamp products.

lapowers57 · July 2017

No you are not obligated to buy a Zamp but I did and all I had to do was plug it in and go camping. No fuss, no changes and it works fine.

ericnliz · July 2017

@drpprmt, It has been our experience that the dealers charge WAY too much when obtaining the panels from them. We ordered ours (Renogy 100 watt suitcase w/controller) directly from Renogy, and saved almost $200.00 over what the dealer wanted by doing so. It was also free shipping. Best to do a lot of reading, and research, as well as evaluating how much electric usage you will need for your camping adventures. We boondock probably 85 to 90% of the time (prefer quieter environments with LOTS of space between sites), so we had a choice between solar, and generator. I chose solar because I have yet to hear ANYTHING at all while my battery is charging. 100 watts would really be the minimum choice as far as I'm concerned, and depending on your electrical needs/wants, higher might be a better choice for you. The suitcase model also offers panel protection while in transit (mine sits between the toilet and wall snugly, and doesn't move), and easy to lift and move to the desired area as well. Extension cables are also a big plus for obtaining the best position for your panels. We still have the stock battery, and have had no issues with having plenty of electricity available from the battery. When we turn in for the night, the battery usually reads 12.6 to 12.8, and at the most has dropped to 12.2. Best advise, do your homework so you make a sound decision for YOU. Good luck, and I hope this has helped.

BillRedding · July 2017

I don't have my RV yet, but by the time I DO get it the plan is to have 4 of the newer lithium batteries as my house batteries and 3 of the ~ 340 Watt (rigid) solar panels (such as the Kyocera KU340-8BCA panels) to give me just over 1000 Watts of solar power. AND (of course), a quality MPPT controller to handle the 30A or so all 3 panels will be putting out (max).

I think that'll do... ;-)

Well, except for a small marine wind generator (to produce power on cloudy days and at night - if there's wind!) I'll be adding at some point...

[Note: ONE reason for having a system putting out more Watts than you think you need ("oversizing") is to make up for days where the sun isn't 100%, so even with a loss you're still getting a decent amount of power output. On smaller systems, a loss would make a much larger difference. So IMO, "oversizing" a bit helps with less-than-ideal solar-gain days.]

Presently, these particular Kyocera panels are only $214 each, so 3 of them really isn't that bad (buy once, cry once). To get a "ready made system" from the companies mentioned here (Zamp, Renogy or any other solar company) that kind of total wattage would cost WAY more than $214 per panel. I mean, look what they charge you for only 100/160 Watts systems. IMO, that money would be better spent on a DIY system...

True, I ALSO have to get a quality (and expensive!) MPPT controller, but it's (likely) a better (quality and feature-wise) controller than one gets with a Zamp or Renogy "suitcase" system...because I'm guessing (don't KNOW) such a low-wattage Zamp/Renogy setup is most likely using a cheaper/less efficient PWM controller and not a MPPT (partly because a MPPT is not needed for smaller wattage panels). For the larger panels I'm talking about, a MPPT controller is a MUST so there's really no "going cheaper" on the controller (again, buy once, cry once).

While I AM looking to save what money I can, of course, I DO realize that a decent amount of solar power -- AND the batteries, even if they are AGM and not the way more pricier lithium batteries -- isn't going to come cheaply, but I really like the idea of using clean, quiet, SOLAR for most of my boon-docking needs, and so the high initial cost is acceptable (to me). And amortized over the next 20 years (the usual warranty given for most solar panels to still be producing MOST of their power by the end of that period, as panels DO, even if very slowly, degrade over time) the money spent up front doesn't seem that bad for what you get to USE/DO over that 20 year period out camping -- even with the way more expensive lithium batteries included.

I suspect (and hope!), however, by the time I will be buying lithium the prices will come down big-time -- like they have for solar panels: My smaller Kyocera 65T solar panel I got in 2009 cost almost as much as a 340 Watt Kyocera panel does today!

But the MAIN point is -- and has been mentioned by ericnliz already -- the "ready made" systems are WAY overpriced for what you actually get...it's a real money-maker for those companies (which is fine, not criticizing, and many people don't mind buying those small systems as they're a more "convenient" solution).

Still, solar is NOT that difficult to figure out OR install, so if at all possible I'd suggest people get their own solar panels, controller, and batteries separately and put it all together DIY or, hire "someone solar" to do it. The required wiring & connectors you can find locally @ Home Depot or Lowes.

As for me, my FIRST place (online) to go for checking pricing/buying most of the MAJOR solar-power things I need -- especially the panels (got my small Kyocera panel there back in 2009) is this place (see link below). They have just about EVERYTHING you'd need to put together your own system -- even the wiring/connectors! But if you want a "solar kit" they have those as well (although pricey).

https://www.solar-electric.com/

Happy Solar-ing,

-- BR

pthomas745 · July 2017

I think a 1000 watts for a Tab would make the dang thing hover!

ericnliz · July 2017

@pthomas745, Or would that be LAUNCH!

Michigan_Mike · July 2017

drpprmt said:

We have a new 2017 TAB and want to get a solar suitcase. Our unit has a plug for a zamp solar but I can't find out what model # or amp rating or size we need. Any ideas. Our dealer is trying to sell us one but it is very expensive and I can't get any information from him on the type unit he has. Also have not been able to find any information in our information packet. ???

The new T@B units will no longer come with the Zamp port according to nuCamp, but am happy I had one as they do come in handy for both solar use and in supplying power to my ARB frig. I actually installed an additional Zamp port so that I can not only power up the ARB, but additionally plug in my 200 watt Zamp portable panel and have the best of both worlds too.

I've said it before and will say it again, solar isn't for everyone and it can be downright expensive. Depending on your travel/camping intentions/needs you should first evaluate how often you plan to travel and exactly the type of camping you plan to do. If you plan to boondock the majority of the time as opposed to camping in areas and campgrounds with full hook-ups and shore power, solar might be the right choice. On the flip side, if you will be camping in RV parks and campgrounds with shore power, solar might not be the way to go. Many individuals dive into the solar craze head first and later end up leaving their panels at home and in the garage because it isn't needed in campgrounds with shore power.

I have owned two portable Zamp panels and got a lot of use out of my 80 watt Zamp panel before selling it and purchasing a 200 watt Zamp portable panel. And inasmuch as the 80 watt did a formidable job charging up my trailer battery I opted for the larger portable 200 watt Zamp panel because I know full well I will upgrade my trailer sometime in the future and the 200 watt panel will have enough capability to do what I need. I also upgraded my battery set-up to two 6-volt Interstate batteries and the 200 watt panel tops off the charge daily when I'm camping in remote locations off the grid. The panel isn't lightweight (nearly 50#), but I knew this going in and the solar controller is waterproof and Zamp is the only manufacturer out there who sells waterproof solar controllers and that was another reason I decided to stick with Zamp. I spoke to Jesse Assay, Zamp's technical expert and he recommended I look at/consider purchasing one of their smaller panels (for performance/weight reasons), but I went ahead and purchased the 200 W panel and couldn't be happier.

As noted, there are cheaper portable units out there and you do have options, but as Sam noted above, take some time, do your homework and evaluate your needs and actual usage before jumping head first into the solar market as there are things you should think about and consider. And IMHO and in most instances , you get what you pay for and this is why I bought the 200 watt Zamp as I believe they are the Cadillac of the solar industry and I love the 200 watt panel.

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/d1/unwq82tkqnc1.jpg

Ratkity · July 2017

LOL Mike, your panels almost look as wide as your T@B!

Verna · July 2017

@Ratkity, they're the same size as mine!

jcfaber1 · July 2017

As long as we are having a little show and tell, here is my home made setup. It is a Renogy flexible 2 100 Watt panels in a LuAnn and cedar suitcase. It works great and weighs 20 lbs. It has a 50 ft cable. We have the 12V fridge, ARB and I use a CPAP. If we have decent sun we get back to full charge each day!
John

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/pd/ojnhsjv1by9h.jpg

ericnliz · July 2017

@jcfaber1, Thanks for sharing! Nice job. Great innovative idea, and lightweight as well. Looks like you've got all the adjustment angles down too. Where did you mount your controller, and do you suffer any loss of power with a 50 ft cable? What is the make-up of the cable? Thanks.

jcfaber1 · July 2017

Thanks for the compliment. I have customized the t@b quite a bit. I have my AGM batteries in the drivers side wheel in a vented box. To the right of the batteries is my Midnite Solar MPPT

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/a8/gc19qldz052m.jpg

charge controller. You can see the black box in the photo. I have the panels wired in series so I am at 35V and with the 8 gauge wire I am at 1.14% voltage drop according to my Southwire ap. I am using a trolling motor plug to bring it into the camper top left corner of the photo. Next to the wire coming in is the breaker for the PV. I have another breaker from the controller to the batteries but is too buried in the mess of wires to describe. I purchased the cable off of Amazon and it was a bit expensive around $85 and can look up the link if you are interested. The item in the circle is the quick disconnect for the batteries.

ericnliz · July 2017

Thanks for the photo & the explanation.

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