Your Tricks / Tips for Soft Parking Surfaces ?

MuttonChops · July 2018

On two outings I've faced setting up a T@B 320 on soft surfaces.

One was deep loose gravel at a private RV park the other well watered front yard grass. For both situations side-2-side leveling with blocks was needed which then limited wheel chock placement to the 'uphill' wheel. Each time when disconnecting the T@B coupler from the TV the T@B rotated toward the downhill side rolling off the wheel block and pushing the wheel chocks deep into the soft surface. Plus the tongue jack wheel dug a trench as the T@B rotated.

My solution was try and try again. Each time moving the T@B some attempting to find firmer ground for the wheel chock side. This cycle of do-overs was exhausting and a bit embarrassing.

So how do the more expert T@Bbers out there handle Parking / Set-up on Soft Surfaces ?

Blocks are: various thickness wood boards and the lego levers
Chocks are one pair of yellow plastic Camco # 44412 8x5x4 inch

Sharon_is_SAM · July 2018

I don’t know if this will work, but we have four 1 x 2 plywood pieces to create a path to reposition on soft ground.

ScottG · July 2018

If it appears the trailer is going to skitter about once it's unhooked, I would try chocking the wheels with something more robust like a large stone or a hefty piece of firewood. Chocking both sides of the wheels might also help.

In short, just improvise and do whatever you need to do to keep the wheels from moving once you have them where you want them.

MuttonChops · July 2018

ScottG said:

. . . try chocking the wheels with something more robust like a large stone or a hefty piece of firewood.

. . . Chocking both sides of the wheels might also help.

Agree, something more robust that won't slip in soft gravel/grass for wheel chocks could be the answer . . . but what?

As it seems there is never a good large rock around when needed & I'm not ready to start carrying any. And with nearly all the western states having no campfire rules in effect, firewood has been staying home too.

Chocking both sides - - - so far I've been unable to solve how to chock a wheel that is already up on leveling wood/legos.

pingnc · July 2018

Someone has suggested the rubber chocks from Northern Tool which they claim are less 'slippery' than the yellow ones that I currently use. Haven't tried them yet, but will purchase at the next Northern Tool I come to.

dsfdogs · July 2018

I always use four chocks. I use two of these Solid Rubber Wheel Chocks (also used when parked in the garage), one of these Lynx Wheel Stops "lego'd" onto the pads if I have to level side to side. (I pull forward onto the pads and have this chock already in place). Lastly I use the Trimax Wheel Chock Lock. If I didn't use the Trimax, I'd use the second Lynx Wheel Stop. All are in place prior to unhitching.

I suppose if I had mushy ground, I'd use the Lynx levelers under both wheels, one being higher if necessary. Plus I have the Lynx caps for under the stabilizers. (I don't have boards).

MuttonChops · July 2018

dsfdogs said:

. . . two of these Solid Rubber Wheel Chocks
. . . one of these Lynx Wheel Stops "lego'd" onto the pads
. . . Lastly I use the Trimax Wheel Chock Lock.

Have added Rubber Wheel Chocks to my shopping wishlist. There extra weight could help on soft surfaces while they are known to be better than lighter weight plastic on hard smooth surfaces.

lego'd Wheel Stops, great idea. I've not seen them before. Can imagine how a locked in chock and the extra surface area of the levers could really help on soft surfaces. My T@B came from NuCamp with Valterra brand levers. A quick search found they also have the wheel stops.

Image: https://us.v-cdn.net/5021717/uploads/editor/2b/01bjumtew9fd.png

I also use a Trimax Wheel Chock Lock 100% of the time however primary reason is for the Lock not the chock. My 15-inch Boondock tires are at the limit of the smaller size Trimax and the 'chock' feature can only be positioned as a chock half of the time.

Also, I only install the Trimax after the T@B is uncoupled and stable . . . don't wish to have that metal knife edge spinning into the T@B wheel well if things go really wrong.

Mouseketab · July 2018

Perhaps a BAL Leveler, which levels and chocks the low side, then chocks around the other wheel on both front and back.

dsfdogs · July 2018

@MuttonChops I love those rubber wheel chocks and they seem to work well on the smooth garage floor. I've also seen them at Harbor Freight if you have a store nearby.

Glad you could find the "lego" type chock. I put it on the front like your picture, then pull forward. It gives me some comfort I don't pull too far. I put the Trimax Wheel Chock on that same wheel on the back, so I don't think it will move once on. With all these chocks, I have a variety of options and now you will too!

Ratkity · July 2018

I use the Lynx version of the lego wheel chock. If my camper is on a level site, I give each chock a good kick under rear tire on each side and then back my TV up a bit so the chocks are under the tire. I also have an Anderson leveler and that worked better when I had my T@B. It comes with its own wedge. Many ways to use it. Many people swear by the Bal-leveler.

Tip: When on level ground, kick the chocks behind the wheel on each side, then back up the TV slightly. Then there isn't a chance the coupler isn't pulling backwards on the inside jaws and won't release when you try to unhitch. Makes unhitching much easier!

Ratkity · July 2018

P.S. Inside the toy hauler, I use one of those solid heavy rubber chocks under the back wheel of my motorcycle. If I hit a rut, I don't want any movement front to back at all. I have one of the smallest toy haulers on the market and my 8 ft bike is 1.5" from the back when the ramp is up.

rkj__ · July 2018

Something like this would work:

https://www.rvupgradestore.com/Endurance-RV-Leveling-Kit-With-Wheel-Chock-p/19-4277.htm

Image: https://cdn3.volusion.com/dxylq.nruds/v/vspfiles/photos/19-4277-4.jpg?1494835309

It's a prettier version of what I do with scrap wood and firewood.

ScottG · July 2018

That's pretty slick. If you're inclined you could build something like just out of wood without too much trouble. If it works like I think it does, it would solve the problem of the stack squiggling around when you drive up onto it.

Wider/longer lumber could be employed to create more float if needed for soft surfaces.

Your Tricks / Tips for Soft Parking Surfaces ?

Comments

Categories