which plug in is correct?

boonie

being new to tab, boondock edge, at a rv campground, how do you know what is the correct power plug in for your tab. i know 220 is a no, no. are they labeled in the box? i know what 110 looks like,  thanks, not an electrician.

boonie

i did not explain myself very well, can a tab run entirely on 110 shore power, at home in the driveway? thanks.

Deb55

I'm pretty new to all this as well, but we did take a good long trip this summer in our T@B 400. It uses a 30 amp connection, which is a very different looking plug and outlet from regular outlets that you have at home. I have an adapter that fits the 30 amp plug and allows me to plug into my house, or 20 amp. It's always good to have an adapter in case the campground only has 20 amp. I've been able to run pretty much everything from my house shore power, and I can use it to charge my battery. If some of this isn't clear, or is incorrect, anyone can feel free to correct or clarify--I'm still a newbie! 

boonie

thanks deb, that makes sense to me as well. i too have an adapter for house 20 amp. there was some confusion of mine regarding the 30 amp plug on my 320 boondock fitting the 220 at campgrounds. i'll get it, just new to this as well. enjoy.

ChanW

The 30 amp plug will not fit the 50 amp/220V outlet, so no need to worry.

The 30 amp outlet is 110V.

MuttonChops

boonie said:

i did not explain myself very well, can a tab run entirely on 110 shore power, at home in the driveway? thanks.

Normally a 320 will be fine on a household 15A 110VAC circuit (outlet).  If using the Alde 'at the house' suggest you select the 1kW heater option.

I run my T@B 320 on household 15A just fine; in summer A/C works and in cold weather Adle works (at 1kW).  Not sure I could also run a dry dryer but that's not a big deal at home.

At least once while traveling had to use 15A 110VAC instead of 30A connection (30A was dead) . . . T@B was fine the entire visit.

Mouseketab

However, there is a 50 Amp to 30 Amp adapter available also. I have found carrying one is essential. At state parks and even some KOA/private campgrounds, the 30 Amp is the most used and abused. If it tests out bad or looks sketchy, the 50 Amp right next to it is lesser used and is often in perfect working order and pristine. The adapter has allowed me to easily hook to power without moving.

boonie

MuttonChops said:

boonie said:

i did not explain myself very well, can a tab run entirely on 110 shore power, at home in the driveway? thanks.

Normally a 320 will be fine on a household 15A 110VAC circuit (outlet).  If using the Alde 'at the house' suggest you select the 1kW heater option.

I run my T@B 320 on household 15A just fine; in summer A/C works and in cold weather Adle works (at 1kW).  Not sure I could also run a dry dryer but that's not a big deal at home.

At least once while traveling had to use 15A 110VAC instead of 30A connection (30A was dead) . . . T@B was fine the entire visit.

thanks mchops(nice name , so in cold weather with the alde at 1k, i assume you are using lp also? or just household 15a. 

boonie

ChanW said:

The 30 amp plug will not fit the 50 amp/220V outlet, so no need to worry.

The 30 amp outlet is 110V.

thankyou, i see that now, good time of year to do research and learn, this is a great resource:)

boonie

so a follow up, should i buy a heavier 110 extension cord to plug into my 30 amp tab cord. i will need one as tab is too far from outlet? thinking about having electrician hook up new outlet, maybe a separate 30 amp line?

ScottG

Electrical wires are rated based on the amps they can carry. 30A service requires a heavier wire (10g minimum) than 20A or 15A service. Most "heavy duty" extension cords will only have 14g or maybe 12g wire.

In short, if you expect to use your extension cord with a 30A connection, be sure to get one designed for the purpose (probably one designed for RV use).

boonie

thanks scott, so if i decide to install a separate 110 line from my home box to an outside receptacle, closer to the tab, i can use the 30 amp tab cord, plugged into a 110 extension cord, plugged into the new 110 line? as long as i don't overdue it in the tab, powerwise, correct. thanks , or if the new box is close enough to the tab, i do not need the extension cord, just the 30 amp tab cord with 110 extension plugged into it. i think i got it correct me if i am wrong.

Cbusguy

You can easily run the trailer on a standard 110 volt 15 amp outlet.....Just don't run the Aldi in AC mode.    The only time we have tripped the breaker was bring it home the first time and plugging it in.    The dealer thought it was best to switch every thing to default to AC power.    

Propane works just fine.

RollingBnB

boonie said:

thanks scott, so if i decide to install a separate 110 line from my home box to an outside receptacle, closer to the tab, i can use the 30 amp tab cord, plugged into a 110 extension cord, plugged into the new 110 line? as long as i don't overdue it in the tab, powerwise, correct. thanks , or if the new box is close enough to the tab, i do not need the extension cord, just the 30 amp tab cord with 110 extension plugged into it. i think i got it correct me if i am wrong.

All three types of plugs are 110v. The difference is the amperage, 15, 30 or 50. The 50 is two legs of 110v which is why you can use an adapter. Just buy a good 12 gauge extension cord and you will be fine.

MuttonChops

boonie said:

MuttonChops said:

. . . Normally a 320 will be fine on a household 15A 110VAC circuit (outlet).  If using the Alde 'at the house' suggest you select the 1kW heater option.

I run my T@B 320 on household 15A just fine; in summer A/C works and in cold weather Adle works (at 1kW).  Not sure I could also run a dry dryer but that's not a big deal at home.

thanks mchops(nice name , so in cold weather with the Alde at 1k, i assume you are using lp also? or just household 15a. 

[1]  When I use the Alde on Electric Power I do not also burn Propane fuel. One can do so but I've not found it is needed.  Alde does fine at 1kV Electric Power . . . just takes longer to reach ideal operating temperature . . . I only use the 1kV setting when on a 15Amp circuit/outlet.  While on a 15Amp circuit you could just run Alde on Propane of course.

[2]  As noted in earlier post.  I've had no issues operating the T@B on a 15Amp circuit . . . just remember that you have limited power capacity.  When doing projects at home T@B is on a 15Amp circuit with 120-feet of extension cord and the A/C or Alde plus an electric drill all work fine.  But I only do so for four hours, am not using an extension cord for long periods of electrical power.

[3]  Would be helpful to use correct terms as you describe what your issues/plans are.
       Standard Household Outlet;  15Amp 110VAC
       T@B power system (and cord);  30Amp  110VAC
       Campground Power Post Options;  Any combination of
                                                             15A  110VAC
                                                             20A  110VAC  {breaker with 15A style outlet}
                                                             30A  110VAC
                                                             50 A 110VAC
      Your focus when matching electrical cords should be on the current, Amps, not 110Volts.

Mouseketab

What I generally do when plugging into 15 or 20 V 110 is use my 30 Amp RV Cord, if needed, a 30 Amp RV Extension cord, then a short 30 Amp to 15 Amp dogbone adapter. So my Cord line is as heavy as possible.

ScottG

boonie said:

thanks scott, so if i decide to install a separate 110 line from my home box to an outside receptacle, closer to the tab, i can use the 30 amp tab cord, plugged into a 110 extension cord, plugged into the new 110 line? as long as i don't overdue it in the tab, powerwise, correct. thanks , or if the new box is close enough to the tab, i do not need the extension cord, just the 30 amp tab cord with 110 extension plugged into it. i think i got it correct me if i am wrong.

The amperage of the circuit on which you install your new receptacle should dictate what you need for an extension cord. If you install a regular 15A or 20A receptacle on a regular 15A or 20A household circuit, then a regular heavy duty extension cord with 12 gauge wires should work.

If you elect to install a 30A circuit and receptacle, then I advise you to get a heavier (10 gauge or more) extension capable of handling 30A. This will prevent ever inadvertently overloading your extension cord and potentially creating a fire hazard.

To reiterate what RollingBnB said, it's not about the voltage. Any power you connect the T@B to will need to be 120V. The more devices you run, the more amps you will pull through your extension cord. The T@B can pull up to 30A, and if you do that you need a wire that will handle that amount of current.

Ultimately, the fewer extension cords the better. If you are able to install a new receptacle close enough to the T@B to get by with just your 30A RV cable, that's what I would do. 

Bayliss

ScottG said:

Ultimately, the fewer extension cords the better. If you are able to install a new receptacle close enough to the T@B to get by with just your 30A RV cable, that's what I would do.  

I agree with this 100%.  It really doesn't cost that much to add a 30A breaker.  Let alone dealing with the headache and hassle of a tripped circuit breaker, it will allow you to get the best use of your T@B's electrical systems while at home (and eliminate the need for extension cords.)

Tampakayaker

Bayliss said:

ScottG said:

Ultimately, the fewer extension cords the better. If you are able to install a new receptacle close enough to the T@B to get by with just your 30A RV cable, that's what I would do.  

I agree with this 100%.  It really doesn't cost that much to add a 30A breaker.  Let alone dealing with the headache and hassle of a tripped circuit breaker, it will allow you to get the best use of your T@B's electrical systems while at home (and eliminate the need for extension cords.)

I had my son the electrician add a 30A outlet to the side of my house off of the circuit breaker box.

I think it was about $50 worth of parts (depending on your breaker brand).

There was a weatherproof box with a 30A outlet in it, that was around $30 at Lowes. 

The breaker was around $5, but it didn't fit my breaker box so I had to go to Home Depot and the correct one was $10.

The 10 gauge 6 foot wired pigtail was around $15.

I purchased a 30A 50 foot extension cord to reach the outlet, but I was going to buy that anyway for those hard to reach power poles.

TabberJohn

This was sitting at the back corner of our house when we bought it.  


As a result our T@B has served as an add-a-room during the summer with the AC on occasionally, as well during the winter with the Alde running and snow on the roof.

pthomas745

I bought the Camco 30 amp, 10 gauge, 25 foot extension cord that plugs directly into my Camco 30 amp cable that plugs into the trailer.  Very flexible, easy to handle.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BUU5YU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I also have the adapter that I use to plug the cable into regular household 110. (The yellow adapter under the "Frequently Bought Together" section.)

boonie

TabberJohn said:

This was sitting at the back corner of our house when we bought it.  


As a result our T@B has served as an add-a-room during the summer with the AC on occasionally, as well during the winter with the Alde running and snow on the roof.

very nice! look's like what i am having my electric guy hook-up

boonie

https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Wiring/Mighty-Cord/A10-3025E.html would this be good for additional length at home if i have the electrician hook up a 30 amp box solely for my tab? i know that a 30 amp 110V was mentioned for the cord, but this is 30 amp. 125V? thanks for the clarity

ChanW

Yes, 110V, 115V, 120V, 125V are all the same.

A bit confusing, eh?

If you're interested in why, there's a discussion about it here: https://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/57739/why-is-mains-power-sometimes-110v-and-other-times-120v

boonie

ChanW said:

Yes, 110V, 115V, 120V, 125V are all the same. A bit confusing, eh?

thanks chan, i'm getting it being freshly retired i have plenty of time for research and learning.

ChanW

Never stop learning!

Tampakayaker

boonie said:

https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Wiring/Mighty-Cord/A10-3025E.html would this be good for additional length at home if i have the electrician hook up a 30 amp box solely for my tab? i know that a 30 amp 110V was mentioned for the cord, but this is 30 amp. 125V? thanks for the clarity

That will work.  I got a Camco 50 footer on Amazon (they have 25's also) and they have a handle on the plugs for easy connecting/disconnecting.  https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004809YBE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Deb55

We just recently had a normal 15 amp outlet added to the outside of our garage so that we could plug in the Tab using our adapter and surge protector. We couldn't easily add 30 amp in that location, so this works pretty much just as well. I can run the AC, at least briefly which is all I've ever done in my driveway, and the heat also worked just fine. Mostly I wanted to be able to keep the battery charged, and get the fridge cold if needed. It's nice to go out there and putter around comfortably, as well. Before having that outlet installed we had to run our cord from the camper with a 30 amp extension cord all the way across our driveway, into an outlet that was dedicated to roof ice melting cables--which meant that we'd have to unplug those cables first and go down to the basement to switch on the outlet which isn't live all the time. It was very awkward! I guess my point is that you don't necessarily need a 30 amp outlet to plug in your camper for nominal (ie, not living in it) use. 

ScottG

boonie said:

...

i know that a 30 amp 110V was mentioned for the cord, but this is 30 amp. 125V? thanks for the clarity

The power supply in the U.S. is standardized at 120V. It was 110V many decades ago, so "seasoned" folks (or those who learned from them) still tend to use that value.  ;-)

This web page offers a concise summary of why you see voltage listed differently in different places. In short, it depends on whether you are referring to the supply, the optimum parameter for your equipment, or the rating of your device.

As ChanW said, practically speaking it's all the same. The actual voltage in your house can vary a bit from 120V, but--within a certain range--electrical equipment doesn't care and works just fine.

Lil_Lucy

This is our electrical set up at home. I had an electrician install the 30 amp service. I could have done it myself but I’ll admit, I know just enough about electricity to be dangerous. I let the professionals handle it. 

Now if I find myself in the “Dog House” (you men on the forum know what I’m talking about), I’ll have somewhere to go and be comfortable.