Hello, I have just purchased a '19 TAB 400, and I have installed a DrawTite brake controller on my TV.
I have never used electric brakes on a trailer before. I have turned the gain on the controller up as far as it goes, and manually testing it from about 5mph I get a very gradual (graceful) stop even when moving the controller's manual activation lever immediately to its full travel. Walking beside the trailer, I can hear the Tab's brakes activate and release, but there is not a lot of stopping power.
When I fully activate the trailer brakes manually, using the controller, what should the braking force feel like?
0 ·
Comments
For best performance, you need to warm the brakes slightly before setting the power. You can do that by driving a short distance (approximately 1/4 mile) at 45 mph with the manual lever engaged about halfway. After that, follow the manufacturer's instructions. You will probably initially set the power gain about halfway and then likely be instructed to drive at about 20-25 mph on a flat level surface and fully apply the manual knob/lever. If the brakes lock up, the power is set too high. If the trailer wheels turn freely, it is too low. At the 20-25 mph speed, you want the brakes to grab and slow the trailer, but not lock up.
Testing the braking power at 5 mph is insufficient to properly set the controller. Again, review and follow your specific manufacturer's instructions. If you don't have a copy, look online for one. Otherwise, contact the brake installer for a copy or help with setting the controller. The installer should have given you a basic overview of the controller operation.
Once you have the brakes set properly at 20-25 mph, if they feel like they are applying too much braking power, or too little, at a higher speed, you can make slight adjustments while towing. Some brake controllers also have a power boost that you can use to incrementally adjust (probably three levels of power gain) to add increased braking power as needed (e.g., when going down a steep grade.)
Hope this helps.
(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)
@Intrinsic, As the brakes are designed to control the trailer they won't seem that strong stopping it and your tow vehicle. Especially if your TV is heavy. @Bayliss has great advice above for determining the gain you will need. It makes sense that you felt a gradual stop using trailer brakes alone.
Springfield, MO
2016 T@B Max S - Sold March 2020
At 50% manual trailer brake application, my T@B locks the wheels at 5mph, but only on gravel.
If you do adjust the drum brakes, make sure both sides are identical so the trailer doesn't pull one way or another under heavy braking.
Former steward of a 2017 T@B S Max
Tampa FL
This is the controller I purchased
Tekonsha 80500 Pro Series POD Brake Control
That is the feeling I'm getting, the slight grab then the clunk when taking my foot off the brakes.
We just did about a 140 mile round trip and I reset them to very low, when I tried the actuator for just the trailer brakes I didn't really feel anything, but then again I'm towing with a 4 door 2006 Ram 1500.
Tampa FL
I think that with a hefty TV, you may not feel like the Tab brakes engage much - unless you brake hard. I would try to go about 20 mph and brake hard and see if you can't feel the Tab brakes. That might make you appreciate that your Tab brakes are engaging. Also, are you using a hitch tightener? If not, the drawbar clanking inside the hitch can create a little noise, too. Lastly, consider adjusting the Tab brakes.
Yes I used a tightener on the second trip, did eliminate some noise.
My biggest issue was the clunk sound and slight bump? when taking my foot off the brake pedal when strting from a stop.
Tampa FL
We towed it from Atlanta to Tampa without brakes hooked up and had no issues with stopping.
We've done two round trips to Orlando from Tampa, so we put on maybe 300 miles.
Tampa FL
i did lots of drum brake jobs back in the day but never fooled with a trailer.
Jeff & Amy
FYI I emailed Creed and he answered in a couple of hours. He suggested I get a pro to do it but also gave me a general answer on how to do it myself. I understand his position and appreciate his response.
Jeff & Amy
The electric drum brakes on a trailer and the hydraulic drum brakes on your tow vehicle are basically the same. They differ only in size and the method of activation of the brake shoes. Electric brakes use an electromagnet to move the brake shoes against the drum instead of a hydraulic cylinder used in hydraulic brakes. Adjusting the shoes is identical in each. If you have adjusted brakes before then you have the skills to do it now. It is important to ensure you have each side adjusted to the same amount of braking force. On a vehicle it may not affect safety to have one side applying more braking force than the other but it could get interesting on a small trailer.
Also, be sure to use the correct jack locations on your trailer and always use jack stands if you jack up your trailer....Using a bottle jack without an adapter on the axle is an accident waiting to happen.
1) how hard or soft the brakes come on is partially personal preference. You can set them to be barely noticeable or to pull a little bit. Don’t adjust them so that the trailer will ever lock up it’s wheels. There is a lot of room between barely noticeable and locking the brakes.
2) the controller is adjustable for a reason. Depending on the conditions like temperature, length of your trip, amount of hill climbing, you may want to adjust the controller. In the course of a day, you may adjust it several times.