@mandt, did you first try pressing the "power" button (located to the left of the "menu" button)? Is the green light on the power button visible? If not lit, then you do not have power to the Alde control panel. That would indicate either the connection to the panel has come loose, or a fuse may be blown (either at the converter panel, or on the Alde itself.) You may need to pull off the Alde control panel to check that, or it could have become loose where it connects on the top of the Alde boiler. Also, confirm that the Alde 110V plug is properly connected to its dedicated outlet (located under the seating area in the Alde/plumbing connections compartment.)
As GatorEgg said, happens to a lot of us. Mine was the one on the left (has only done it once), and Alde had kindly left a replacement fuse taped down in that area.
I'd read the thread here about dropping those little glass fuses and losing them forever to the void... so very carefully used a needle nose plier to pull out the green fuse holders to check them.
Good reminder @N7SHG_Ham! Unless the battery switch was off, the panel should work.
@mandt, before changing Alde fuses, make sure to turn everything off to avoid a surge to the Alde as noted by GatorEgg. That may be the cause of your fuse blowing.
I've been going through the vast discussions on the blowing Alde fuses. I'm pretty religious about having the
Alde offoffoff......and I still blow fuses. Probably 5 times in the last year, twice in the last two months while the trailer is sitting idle and I wanted to check something in the trailer, when it was only plugged into the solar panel. I still think "off" is a good practice, but it does not appear foolproof. Or, maybe my "religion" is slipping!
I've ordered the slow blow fuses from Amazon, and if they don't perform any better, I'm going to 5v fuses.
we have a 2015 cs-s and had an issue blowing Alde fuses. corrected by running a ground wire directly from Alde to battery. have not blown fuses since.
From:Alde Service Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2017 6:27 PM To:
Mike,
So I believe yours could have that ground issue I was talking about, what you would have to do is follow the black wire coming from in-between your fuses back to its ground location (ill add a pic of the wire I’m talking about). Check and see if that wire is grounded with a bunch of other items, if it is I will give a brief description on what to change. All you would have to do is just route that one black wire (ground) to as close to the battery ground as possible, if you can get it to the battery that would be ideal. If you can’t get it to the battery you will just need to ground it by itself if possible, that would get rid of the chance of the backfed voltage spike causing the fuse to blow.
@Sharon_is_SAM, thanks, I found that discussion and bookmarked it. Very useful. I'll try the 5v fuses and see how that goes first.
@nhmike did you do the battery ground wire yourself? When the Alde tech said "if you can't get it to the battery" then just ground it by itself. So...would a simple hole in the bottom of the trailer and the wire attached to the trailer's frame accomplish this? It would seem a lot easier to deal with.
@pthomas745 as I recall, Alde’s first choice was to go all of the way to the battery. The second choice was to go through the floor to a new and separate ground location.
If it wasn’t for the wiring looms and wiring protective troughs, it would be tempting to splice into the battery ground under the T@B....but I don’t know if that would be acceptable in this case.
Verna, Columbus, IN 2021 T@B 320S Boondock “The T@B” Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
We've never had one of these Alde fuses blow, but I think it's even less likely now since we installed a kill switch on our Alde 12V power line. As shown about midway down the following page(2), our kill switch is located next to the converter panel.. https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/comment/122833#Comment_122833 (& scroll farther down for view of wiring) I wonder if this might help those who have a problem, though if it's a problem with remembering to turn off the Alde before disconnecting A/C power, maybe not, but there is a light on our switch when it's on.
-Brian in Chester, Virginia TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6) RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods
Comments
(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)
2018 TAB 320 Boondock (previous)
Odessa, Fl.
As GatorEgg said, happens to a lot of us. Mine was the one on the left (has only done it once), and Alde had kindly left a replacement fuse taped down in that area.
I'd read the thread here about dropping those little glass fuses and losing them forever to the void... so very carefully used a needle nose plier to pull out the green fuse holders to check them.
https://youtu.be/VP8c21cx4_s
Former steward of a 2017 T@B S Max
https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/7953/alde-control-panel-dark-does-not-work-alde-blows-3-15-amp-fuses-why-run-a-new-ground-wire
Sent: Thursday, August 17, 2017 6:27 PM
To:
2021 T@B 320S Boondock “The T@B”
Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
I went through the floor and ran to battery. Real simple to do.
2016 Max S
Kalamazoo Michigan
https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/comment/122833#Comment_122833
(& scroll farther down for view of wiring)
I wonder if this might help those who have a problem, though if it's a problem with remembering to turn off the Alde before disconnecting A/C power, maybe not, but there is a light on our switch when it's on.
TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6)
RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods