Spare Tire Mount Attached to Boondock Tub

Bayliss

Does anyone have any photos of how nuCamp (or others) attaches the spare tire to the front tub?  I have a 320 S Boondock Lite with a Boondock spare and would like to know if a spare tire carrier can be mounted to the tub.  Any part number info or other details for mounting a spare tire carrier in that location would be appreciated.  I am looking for photos that show how and where they bolt the carrier, as well as how much clearance it leaves between the back side of the wheel and the front exterior of the tub.  Thanks in advance!

SolarSteve

I just ordered that mount last week. NuCamp calls it a "Boondock spare tire bracket" – part id 56-00-4179. They had me order it through my dealer, though indicated if that was impractical, they would deal directly. I ordered it from the dealer -- about $100 plus another $10 for shipping. It arrived in a week. Here's what it looks like (note that I have a 2020 320S Boondock Lite with a smaller spare tire; they'll probably want your VIN to make sure it's the right part).



I considered a functionally similar bracket available online for less than half the price, but I was worried about possible fatigue of the diamond-plate where it attached. I thought perhaps nuCamp's bracket would attach to the frame, but it also attaches to the bin (I was amazed that among all the videos online, NONE gave a good view of the attachment!) 

Anyway, there it is, a robust aluminum part. Notice that the bracket mating plate for the  bin is curved to the same radius of the diamond-plate, offering a tight attachment. There were no instructions included, but I mounted it such that the weight of the tire was borne entirely by the platform below, and the bracket provided only horizontal stability. nuCamp supplies the attachment hardware, but I bought a couple of large fender washers and plastic-insert lock nuts to help spread the forces away from the bolt holes. Here's a picture of the nuts and washers inside the bin:

 Good luck!

Bayliss

Thanks, @SolarSteve.  Since there were no responses to my inquiry  with photos (until yours), I purchased the Maxxhaul #70214 steel carrier (powder coated black.)  It appeared to be identical to what nuCamp was using.  Surprisingly, the Maxxhaul only cost $13, yet it appears to be well made and welded, plus it is rated to carry 100#.  Some other T@B owners mounted the same carrier on their jack post.  I could not go that route, because it will not work with the tray at the front of the Boondock platform, because there would be insufficient off-set (distance) between the mounting base (at the jack tube) to the plate of the carrier where the wheel attaches wheel lugs.  

I separately purchased stainless steel bolts to attach the carrier to the aluminum tub.  It mounts with four bolts, which will be tightened against powder coated vertical brackets inside the tub. The Maxxhaul (which is rated to hold 100#) does not have the curved mounting base to match the curvature of the tub, which is definitely a nice feature of the nuCamp version.

It is evident that your carrier is specially designed for the Boondock tub, whereas the Maxxhaul carrier is designed to mount on a flat trailer frame.  However, to compensate for that, I am going to add some rubber or neoprene spacers over the shaft of each bolt between the carrier mount and the tub to (a) fill the relatively small gap that results from a straight (rather than curved) mounting plate, and (b) to act as a buffer between the steel (albeit powder-coated) mounting plate and the aluminum tub.

Fortunately, as you have found, there is really no weight placed on the carrier in this configuration, because the spare tire rests on the Boondock platform and merely provides horizontal support.  Therefore, I do not anticipate that the carrier will create any fatigue at the tub.  It will likely be a couple weeks before I mount the spare tire carrier.    Hopefully, I did not make a mistake going this route.  I suppose I could change course and order the nuCamp carrier, but I'm not sure it makes a significant difference.  Hopefully, all will go well.

4ncar

@Bayliss: if you still have any concern of metal fatigue, try adding a “spreader bar.” This would be a piece of metal bar that is slightly wider then the two holes you drill. Then, drill through the bar with the same exact hole pattern and install it against the back of the tub, along with nuts & washers. This will spread the weight(any remaining) the entire width (and height );of the bar. It could be aluminum, which would conform to the curve...

Bayliss

Thank you, @4ncar.  The Maxxhaul carrier includes two bars for attachment similar to what you are describing (see photo below.)  They attach with the four long bolts depicted in the photo.  However, the bolts are zinc plated (rust resistant), which is why I purchased some shorter stainless steel bolts.

After thinking about it overnight, however, I may purchase the aluminum carrier from nüCamp like @SolarSteve did.  I really like how the mounting plate fits the curve of the tub.  It is more expensive than the Maxxhaul, but it will provide a better fit and cleaner look.  Also, after looking closer at the Maxxhaul carrier, the nüCamp version has a better/thicker weld.  These positive aspects make it worth the $100 to me.

@SolarSteve, can you tell me which dealer you went through to make the purchase?  Also, do you know what the approximate "off-set" measurement is between the two metal plates of your carrier? (The measurement I am interested in is 6" for the Maxxhaul, as depicted in the photo with the lower ruler.)  Thanks!
 

4ncar

There it is!

SolarSteve

Hi Bayless. I’ve been on the road and haven’t had a chance to respond to your other messages (I’m new to the forum).

My dealer is Windish RV in Lakewood CO. Price was $111 and they gave me a 10% discount because I bought my TAB there, so that came to $100. You wouldn’t get that discount. Then when I picked it up, they tacked on the shipping costs from nuCamp to them.

I measured the nuCamp bracket offset from one mounting face to the other. Six inches exactly, just like yours.

Regarding the Maxxhaul bracket you have already ordered, that’s the same one I considered. I bought the nuCamp bracket only because I wasn’t sure how it mounted and didn’t trust mounting it to the bin. But knowing what I know now, it seems a feasible alternative, especially since your bracket is strong enough to support the weight of the entire tire when clamped to the frame.

What I had envisioned was placing those two small vertical bars on the *outside* of the bin so that the flat mating surface of the bracket could bridge the curve of the bin. Then inside the bin I was going to use either fender washers or a steel backing plate bent to the curve of the bin.

It seems the only risk to going ahead with your bracket is the holes drilled in the bin. But even if it doesn’t work, you can go ahead and order the nuCamp.

Steve

Bayliss

Thanks, @SolarSteve.  After looking closer at the weld on the Maxxhaul carrier, it wasn't very substantial.  Therefore, I returned it and ordered the nuCamp carrier.  I ordered it through Missouri Teardrop Trailers and paid $99.25 (includes the shipping cost), so I figure I got a good deal.  They are very efficient and quick to respond to parts inquiries.  I think your idea regarding the Maxxhaul bracket is a good one.  I do, however, think that I am going to be happy with the nuCamp carrier, especially since it is aluminum and specifically designed to fit the aluminum tub.  Thanks again for the response.  I greatly appreciate it.  (Greg)

Bayliss

@SolarSteve and @4ncar, I received the aluminum spare tire bracket from nüCamp today (see photos below.)  Much to my surprise, it came with a matching curved aluminum plate to support the inside wall of the storage tub.  The bracket will be a greatly improved and safer way to carry the spare than the "cage" that originally came with my Boondock Lite.  I also like that they included two black lug nuts that match those used to mount the Boondock wheels on the T@B.

4ncar

Sweet!

Cbusguy

not sure how your boondock tub is attached to your frame.   mine was attached with 4 self tapping screws.    
just sayin

CrabTab

Is this what you've been concerned about @Bayliss? While working on our T@B today we discovered the aluminum post of the boondock tire carrier had failed. We sure would appreciate the part number for the tire carrier you just purchased from NuCamp...

gulfarea

CrabTab That is just what I was afraid of! Can you imagine the damage that tire could do rolling down the highway by itself. That bent aluminum pipe just had very poor threads cut in it from a die. I  went with a wheel adapter on my Jeep JK so spare tire will fit Jeep and Tab.   

Bayliss

@CrabTab, the nüCamp part description and number is "Boondock spare tire bracket" – Part ID 56-00-4179.

Until seeing your photo of a break at the tire cage nut, I was only aware from the experience of another T@B owner that the cage had broke (at an unknown location.)  My cage started to wear through due to my "Jack-It" bike rack tower rubbing against the tire cage.  The metal of the cage had worn significantly, so it wasn't safe to use.  The metal cage is actually worthy of a formal manufacturer's recall, because as @gulfarea notes, the Boondock tire becoming dislodged and jettisoned while travelling down the highway would be extremely dangerous.

Bayliss

@Cbusguy, my aluminum tub is indeed attached the same way as you have described.  I discovered that while adding a sewer storage tube behind the tub.  I am thinking of doing something to secure it better just to be safe (larger/more self-tapping screws, or bolts?).

Fortunately, as @SolarSteve noted above, the spare tire bracket essentially only provides horizontal stability for the spare, so it is not bearing any weight from the tire or pulling on the aluminum tub.  Regardless, I do feel it makes sense to secure the tub to the aluminum frame more securely than the factory attachment (i.e., four small self-tapping screws.)  In addition to that, I have always locked the spare to the trailer frame with a thick cable lock, not only to prevent theft, but  also to keep the spare attached to the trailer in the event something caused it to become detached from its carrier/cage.

Denny16

Good points.  However, the front tub is installed by the dealer, it arrives inside the TaB.
You can see this in a few dealer online sale ads, where the TaB has not been prepared for delivery yet.  I agree, larger frame fasteners should be used.
cheers

Bayliss

Just to finish this up, I installed the nüCamp aluminum tire carrier, which was very easy and it looked great.  UNFORTUNATELY, after I got it on, I discovered that my "Bike-It" bicycle carrier tower prevented me from removing the spare tire/wheel.  Although I was able to take the wheel completely off the carrier wheel lugs, the rubber side walls of the Boondock tire prevented me from being able to angle the tire enough to get it around the wheel carrier lugs.  I tried moving the aluminum tub all the way up against the front exterior wall of the trailer, but I still ended up about 1/2" short of space to get the spare off the carrier.  It would not have been an issue with a standard-sized spare, but the Boondock tire is just too wide.  Obviously, this was very frustrating and a great disappointment.  Fortunately, I was able to plug the two holes I had drilled in the front of the aluminum tub where I mounted the carrier, using a couple 1/2" plastic hole plugs I obtained at Lowes.  Regardless, here is a photo of how it looked, which was really nice.



Here's a photo of the aluminum insert/support installed inside the aluminum tub:



And, for anyone who is interested, here is a photo of the 1 1/4" self-tapping screw (three total) that is used to mount the aluminum tub to the Boondock's aluminum platform.  They actually appear to hold the tub pretty well to the platform, because they are drilled into the aluminum tubing of the platform:

rcuomo

Knock out mounting studs and use different bolts and nyloc nuts from the opposite side?

Bayliss

WOW, @rcuomo!  Why didn't I think of that?  Such a simple solution.  I may have figured that out eventually, but I think I was blinded by my frustration and disappointment yesterday.  Actually, your suggestion of using different bolts is essentially the same configuration included in the design of the Maxxhaul carrier that I posted a photo of earlier in this thread.

I have never thought about it, but do you know if there is anything unique about the threads on a wheel lug?  In other words, will I be able to find a standard stainless steel bolt with the same thread size to work with the black lug nuts that were included with the nüCamp carrier?  Also, there is some sort of silver coating around the wheel lugs where they meet the mounting plate (see photo below.)  I am not sure what that is, unless it is something similar to Loctite.  Do you know what that is?

Thank you very much for the suggestion.  I am now jealous, because my wife says you are her hero.  

rcuomo

IMO you have many options. If you punch out the existing studs you can reuse with washers if they are long enough. But I would just use two stainless bolts with the same holes and nyloc nuts. My T@B 320 has ¾” nuts so I would match up your lug nut size so you don’t had to carry another socket size. More than likely 1/2” -20 thread, pretty standard for lug nuts. Use grade 8 and they will be more than sufficient to handle the wheel weight. Most of the weight is supported by the rack. Studs are pressed and don’t look welded in so if you use a sacrificial nut on the end they should pound out of the aluminum bracket easily. 

rcuomo

Greg, here’s a great source that I have used for hardware:
https://www.mcmaster.com/

Bayliss

@rcuomo, thank you for the helpful info.  Looks like my problem is solved, so I appreciate the input.

SolarSteve

Hi Bayless -- I appreciate that you posted the pictures of the bracket you received from nuCamp, which included the curved backing plate. Mine didn't have that, but I contacted nuCamp, and they sent one. As I suspected, a good backing plate is likely necessary for a robust connection.

I saw your tale of woe about the clearance of the tire around your bike mount. Another option would be to hammer the studs out and then drill their holes ever so slightly larger so the studs can be easily removed when the lug nuts are removed. When mounted, the lug nuts would hold the studs firmly in place.

Bayliss

Thanks, @SolarSteve.........I figured you might contact nüCamp.  I am glad (and not surprised) that they sent you the backing plate.  Your suggestion to drill slightly larger holes in the carrier and use the existing studs is a good one.  I appreciate it.

MICamper53

I realize this is an old thread and things may have changed since it was active. But, Bayliss, do you know what your tongue weight is with the spare, Jack-it, and a couple of bikes? I have the Jack-it and the Boondock aluminum trays like yours. I have two aluminum storage boxes on either side of the propane/battery box. I've weighed the tongue with no tire/no bikes or rack and it comes in at 185 lb. With the tire it's 225. If I add the Jack-it and our two bikes, it would be about 300 lb. or a little more. I realize I can try to move more weight to the rear in the T@B, but I wondered what you have found the tongue weight to be. 

nbrandt

This has worked well for me over the last 7,500 miles.  No fatigue.  Checked frequently. 

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Had to go to the local machine shop and replace all bolts with much shorter versions.