Leak from rear under T@B - fixed!

Tater

So this is just my second trip with my tab I took it off of winter and put it on camping season mode by the picture but I have water coming out the black tube in the back of a tab what’s going on?

(Edited for search purposes.)

Tater

VictoriaP

Are you hooked up to a water source via a hose right now? If so, do you have a pressure regulator on that hose? If not, that’s almost certainly your problem (it’s such a common issue that there have been several posts on it on FB just this month).

Sharon_is_SAM

Are the flapper valves both closed?  Cam you take a picture of where the water is flowing from?  Are you using a pressure regulator?  If not, excess pressure can overwhelm the drain valves.

Tater

Thank you ..it was the yellow flapper valve. 

Love the community !!!

OrangeCrow

This is my first time hooking up city water to my tab and I'm having the same issue of water draining out the bottom of the tab where the boiler is. I have a pressure regulator on. Yellow valve is down. Is there another one that should be? Please help! Here's a photo.

Edited for photo size.

Sharon_is_SAM

Is it pouring or dripping?  Your drain valves are closed, so maybe just try flipping up your yellow valve to see if the fluid is coming from the same area or not.  Also noted glycol in your clear overflow tube.  Maybe that is what you are seeing?

OrangeCrow

It's pouring like a valve is open but when I compare my valves to the manual diagram they are as they should be so I'm nervous to mess with them. It's definitely water pouring out. Shut off the city faucet and the pouring stops. While the water was on I looked at the tubes and the water seems to coming from the white hose that's connected to the long red hose.

Sharon_is_SAM

I can’t see the long red hose in your photo.  The white hoses are for the exterior shower.  Follow those hoses to see if there is a valve open.  Anybody out there with an outside shower that can add their 2 cents?

Bayliss

@OrangeCrow, which year and model T@B do you have (it is helpful for situations like this if you include that info in your signature line)?  Look at posts by other owners for examples of the relevant info to include.

Can you confirm exactly where you are seeing the water come out?  Maybe post a photo that shows it while it is draining.  That would be very helpful.

What makes you think the water is coming from the white hose connected to the long red pipe?  If I understand what you are referring to (i.e., the white hose in the center of the photo?), that is the hot water hose connection to the outside shower.  Although it does not seem like that would be the issue, check to make sure the outside shower faucets are both turned off.

As you and @Sharon_is_SAM have noted, your drain valves are all "closed" in your photo.  Therefore, based on what you are describing, if it has nothing to do with the outside shower, I am wondering if maybe one of the drain valves is defective.

As a troubleshooting effort, turn the exterior water connection back on and try (one at a time) turning the currently "closed" valves to the open position.  That would be (1) the yellow flapper, which releases/drains water from the Alde tank; (2) the hot water line drain valve (red pipe at the bottom center of the photo); and (3) the cold water line drain valve (blue pipe at the right center of the photo.  It would help if someone could assist you by looking from outside the trailer to determine (and tell you) if any of those three actions stops the water flow.  Be sure to return each of those valves back to the "closed" position after testing them.

A final note............keep in mind that your water pump should be "off" when you are using water from a city/campground water connection.  You do not need the pump turned "on" when you are hooked up to a city/campground water source, because the water pressure from that connection moves the water through the lines.

OrangeCrow

I really appreciate this help. Thank you so much. The tab is a 2017 320 U. Here's a photo of where the water is coming out. It's the black pvc pipe cut at an angle. Obviously, not made to have a stopper screwed on so I don't want to try and plug it. (And yes, pump is not being used.)

Bayliss

@OrangeCrow, your photo did not post.  However, I know what you are referring to (i.e., black PVC pipe sticking out through the bottom of the trailer behind the driver's side tire.)  You don't want to cap off that pipe, because the hoses going through there are overflow tubes for the Alde hot water (when there is too much pressure in the tank) and the glycol overflow tube (i.e., the clear tube with the greenish-yellow fluid in your earlier photo.)

It is normal for some water to drain out through the larger clear tube when there is too much pressure in the Alde tank, which you can relieve by opening the yellow flapper valve.  I am pretty sure (but not positive, and I don't have immediate access to my trailer to check it myself) that yellow flapper can be flipped all the way over in the opposite direction.  Gently try that (flipping it all the way in the opposite direction) to see if it does.  If that valve is the issue, maybe you will get lucky and the water will stop flowing once it is flipped in the opposite direction.

NOTE:  If you have not turned on the Alde to get the water hot, I would not expect there to be excessive pressure in the tank.  Especially if this issue of the water draining uncontrolled started soon after you turned on the water from the city/campground connection.

OrangeCrow

OrangeCrow

Thank you @Bayliss. I will try the yellow flapper and let you know. Again, REALLY appreciate this help! 

Bayliss

@OrangeCrow, that is the tube connected to the yellow flapper, which drains your Alde hot water tank.  Sounds like that valve is the issue.  If flipping that valve as I previously described does not solve the issue, then the valve probably needs to be replaced.

I was thinking you were seeing the water draining through the black PVC pipe opening at the top left of your photo, which is where the overflow tubes drain.  The attached document may be helpful to you in identifying those tubes.

OrangeCrow

Thanks for the attachment. Very helpful. And you've correctly identified the problem. I tried flipping the valve, turned on the water and the pour stopped for awhile then started again quite heavily so I turned off the water, flipped the switch again and noticed that the switch is not going all the way down. Turned the water back on and had my son watch the pour as I pressed the switch all the way down and kept it that way with my finger. Eventually, the pour stopped. So faulty valve switch, safe to assume? 

My questions now are, is it safe for me to zip tie the switch all the way down? (Not sure if it's some sort emergency release valve or something.) Also, I'm out in the middle of rural NM for 3 weeks and need to fix this myself or not at all. I'm not any kind of plumber or particularly handy but changing it out looks like something I could do... just basic tools needed? If I ordered the part do you think I could I install it myself? Last question, I've been using the Alde heater at night... am I damaging anything? That side of the bed gets hot at night. I'm new to T@bs so don't know if that's normal or not. 

OrangeCrow

Actually, looking at the valve again I wonder if it is actually working correctly and the safety action is engaging due to high pressure. Do you know if it's normal for the switch to not click and lock in place? In other words, should it be "all the way down and locked in place" or "almost all the way with a little give."

Sharon_is_SAM

Disconnect from city water, open your faucet briefly to relieve the pressure.  Put some water in your fresh tank and see if you recreate the leak under lower pressure.  (You can also just suck some water up from the intake side of the pump.) What kind of pressure regulator are you using?

Bayliss

@OrangeCrow, I have included below a photo of what the safety/drain valve part looks like (from the Alde manual.)  If you have not read the Alde manual, you should do that.  I believe there is a copy in the Resources folder on the left side of the main forum page, or you can obtain it from Alde's web site.  I have the Alde 3020, but you may have the 3010, so you want a copy of the correct manual.

I have never replaced any plumbing parts that are connected to the Pex water lines.  I would think it is fairly easy to do, but maybe someone else on the forum who has done that will chime in and provide some help/insight on this.  I recall reading posts about working with Pex, but it would take some time to search for that.  However, you can do some searching yourself using the search box at the top of the page.  You won't damage the Alde by using it for heating the trailer separate from using it to heat water.  You can use the Alde for heating the trailer interior whether or not you have water in the hot water tank. 

I don't want to make any representations as to whether it is safe to use a zip-tie as a temporary fix to keep the valve closed.  I say this, because the yellow flapper is not only a drain valve (to drain the hot water tank), but a"safety" valve as well.  In the event that too much pressure builds up in the hot water tank, the flapper design of the valve allows it to open the valve as needed to release excess pressure/water.  Thus, it is normal to occasionally see a small amount of water draining out of the hose connected to that valve.  If you are only heating water occasionally, as needed (such as to take a shower), and otherwise have the hot water turned off, you will not likely have issues with too much pressure in the tank.  However, here is some relevant info on that from the Alde manual:

"The heating system is designed to have an air space, called an air cushion, at the top of the tank. This air cushion is essential for absorbing pressure surges in the heating system. Always renew the air cushion in the heating system after 10 days of use.

This can be done by opening the safety/drain valve on the heating system for a few seconds.

The air cushion allows expansion to take place and helps protect the heating system against pressure surges from the water pump."

I think your best option right now is to contact Alde and see what they recommend as a temporary solution.  They can also tell you what you will need as far as replacing the valve yourself vs. taking it to a dealer/RV repair shop.  Their company has merged with Truma, so they are now located in Elkhart, Indiana.  The following info may have changed since that move, but you can try contacting their rep, “Spencer” via his cell #: (503)-977-8044; or contact his assistant at (360)-597-3017.  Or contact Alde via E-mail at: service@alde.us.  

Good luck!

P.S.  After writing the above post, I thought about what you said about holding the valve lever down and eventually the water stopped draining.  I don't know how long it took for it to stop, but be aware that the tank only holds about 2 1/2 gallons of water.  Therefore, it is possible that all the water in the tank drained out.  If so, using something to hold the yellow flapper down will not stop the continuous draining.
 

Sharon_is_SAM

Correct me if I am wrong, but I think Spencer is no longer the Alde go-to guy.

Bayliss

@Sharon_is_SAM, you may be right (and probably are.)  Do you have a good contact (or number) for them who can help @OrangeCrow?

MuttonChops

@OrangeCrow ; @Sharon_is_SAM has an excellent suggestion of seeing if Yellow Release Valve will hold pressure when not on city-water, just using the T@B water pump to set water system pressure.

=1= If the Yellow Release holds while on Water Pump then your city-water Pressure Regulator is bad (if that is possible) or more likely not a 50 PSI or less regulator.  Any local store with an RV Supply section will have a replacement to try.

= 2 = If Yellow Release still won't hold using T@B Water Pump - - - then set Adle in winter by-pass mode and live with heating water on stove top.  Winter by-pass still allows for Alde cabin heat but will remove the hot water tank and Yellow Release valve from the water pressure loop.

I for one would not force the valve to stay closed.

OrangeCrow

Thank you both. @Sharon_is_SAM fresh water trick is a great idea. Will try it. As far as pressure regulator, I think maybe I misunderstood what my hose can do. I bought a "high pressure drinking water hose for RVs" and was under the impression this would take care of pressure issues. But maybe I need a regulator in addition to that and that could solve the problem? Agh, I feel like such a dumb newbie if that's the case.

Bayliss

I must have been typing my long response while @Sharon_is_SAM and @MuttonChops were posting, but I agree that testing the valve without the constant connection to the water supply is an excellent idea.  However, it now sounds like you just need the separate water pressure regulator connected to your hose.  That is likely the missing piece of the puzzle.  Hopefully that will solve the issue, plus it eliminates replacing the safety/drain valve.  A win-win.  That is the great thing about this forum.  Collaboration!  I am looking forward to hearing the end of the story.

falcon1970

@OrangeCrow
a "high pressure water hose" means that the hose will withstand high pressures (how high I do not know) before the hose bursts.  It will NOT protect anything from high pressures.  The max allowed pressure in the TAB water system is about 50 psi.  It is possible, depending on many factors out of our control, that the supplied water pressure at a campsite could be significantly higher than 50 psi.  Assuming you bought your TAB new, and assuming things haven't changed lately, there should have been a blue plastic water pressure regulator included in the welcome package from nuCamp.  If you didn't get one of these then water pressure regulators are available at any RV store or online.  Any regulator that will hold the pressure down to 50 psi or less will do.  They are not very expensive and are a good investment--as you may unfortunately already have discovered.  Don't bother with an expensive adjustable regulator like I bought.  Once you get the pressure set you will never need to change it!
Don't feel bad about being a "dumb newbie."  We were ALL dumb newbies at some point.  Now some of us are "dumb oldies."

OrangeCrow

I will head to the RV shop today and get a regulator. That must be the issue. I bought the Tab "like new" but no regulator came with it. I've learned so much through all of this which is pretty neat. Thanks for being my teachers. I hope to pay it forward when I earn a few stripes. Will report back when I've got the regulator attached!

Bayliss

@OrangeCrow, something I have learned from this (assuming the water pressure regulator solves the problem) is that we are lucky to have that safety valve.  If that wasn't there, you would likely be dealing with a whole other problem - - - flooding in your trailer.  Something for us all to consider, especially when we are away from our trailer for an extended period of time.  I usually turn off the campground water pressure if I go away for a hike, sight-seeing, etc., "just in case" something springs a leak.  I wouldn't do that every time I am away from the trailer, but a water leak occurring at one or more connections inside the trailer could happen at any time (it has been documented on other RV sites), so it is not worth taking a chance (at least for me.)

OrangeCrow

It worked!! Thanks again. If I could, I'd buy you all a beer!  

Bayliss

Fantastic, @OrangeCrow!  Great news.