So this is just my second trip with my tab I took it off of winter and put it on camping season mode by the picture but I have water coming out the black tube in the back of a tab what’s going on?
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2019 320S Boondock Edge
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2015 Subaru Outback 3.6r (unsafe 200lb tongue weight limit until 2020 models)
2020 Subaru Outback XT
Pacific NW
Edited for photo size.
Can you confirm exactly where you are seeing the water come out? Maybe post a photo that shows it while it is draining. That would be very helpful.
What makes you think the water is coming from the white hose connected to the long red pipe? If I understand what you are referring to (i.e., the white hose in the center of the photo?), that is the hot water hose connection to the outside shower. Although it does not seem like that would be the issue, check to make sure the outside shower faucets are both turned off.
As you and @Sharon_is_SAM have noted, your drain valves are all "closed" in your photo. Therefore, based on what you are describing, if it has nothing to do with the outside shower, I am wondering if maybe one of the drain valves is defective.
As a troubleshooting effort, turn the exterior water connection back on and try (one at a time) turning the currently "closed" valves to the open position. That would be (1) the yellow flapper, which releases/drains water from the Alde tank; (2) the hot water line drain valve (red pipe at the bottom center of the photo); and (3) the cold water line drain valve (blue pipe at the right center of the photo. It would help if someone could assist you by looking from outside the trailer to determine (and tell you) if any of those three actions stops the water flow. Be sure to return each of those valves back to the "closed" position after testing them.
A final note............keep in mind that your water pump should be "off" when you are using water from a city/campground water connection. You do not need the pump turned "on" when you are hooked up to a city/campground water source, because the water pressure from that connection moves the water through the lines.
(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)
It is normal for some water to drain out through the larger clear tube when there is too much pressure in the Alde tank, which you can relieve by opening the yellow flapper valve. I am pretty sure (but not positive, and I don't have immediate access to my trailer to check it myself) that yellow flapper can be flipped all the way over in the opposite direction. Gently try that (flipping it all the way in the opposite direction) to see if it does. If that valve is the issue, maybe you will get lucky and the water will stop flowing once it is flipped in the opposite direction.
NOTE: If you have not turned on the Alde to get the water hot, I would not expect there to be excessive pressure in the tank. Especially if this issue of the water draining uncontrolled started soon after you turned on the water from the city/campground connection.
(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)
I was thinking you were seeing the water draining through the black PVC pipe opening at the top left of your photo, which is where the overflow tubes drain. The attached document may be helpful to you in identifying those tubes.
(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)
My questions now are, is it safe for me to zip tie the switch all the way down? (Not sure if it's some sort emergency release valve or something.) Also, I'm out in the middle of rural NM for 3 weeks and need to fix this myself or not at all. I'm not any kind of plumber or particularly handy but changing it out looks like something I could do... just basic tools needed? If I ordered the part do you think I could I install it myself? Last question, I've been using the Alde heater at night... am I damaging anything? That side of the bed gets hot at night. I'm new to T@bs so don't know if that's normal or not.
I have never replaced any plumbing parts that are connected to the Pex water lines. I would think it is fairly easy to do, but maybe someone else on the forum who has done that will chime in and provide some help/insight on this. I recall reading posts about working with Pex, but it would take some time to search for that. However, you can do some searching yourself using the search box at the top of the page. You won't damage the Alde by using it for heating the trailer separate from using it to heat water. You can use the Alde for heating the trailer interior whether or not you have water in the hot water tank.
I don't want to make any representations as to whether it is safe to use a zip-tie as a temporary fix to keep the valve closed. I say this, because the yellow flapper is not only a drain valve (to drain the hot water tank), but a"safety" valve as well. In the event that too much pressure builds up in the hot water tank, the flapper design of the valve allows it to open the valve as needed to release excess pressure/water. Thus, it is normal to occasionally see a small amount of water draining out of the hose connected to that valve. If you are only heating water occasionally, as needed (such as to take a shower), and otherwise have the hot water turned off, you will not likely have issues with too much pressure in the tank. However, here is some relevant info on that from the Alde manual:
I think your best option right now is to contact Alde and see what they recommend as a temporary solution. They can also tell you what you will need as far as replacing the valve yourself vs. taking it to a dealer/RV repair shop. Their company has merged with Truma, so they are now located in Elkhart, Indiana. The following info may have changed since that move, but you can try contacting their rep, “Spencer” via his cell #: (503)-977-8044; or contact his assistant at (360)-597-3017. Or contact Alde via E-mail at: service@alde.us.
Good luck!
P.S. After writing the above post, I thought about what you said about holding the valve lever down and eventually the water stopped draining. I don't know how long it took for it to stop, but be aware that the tank only holds about 2 1/2 gallons of water. Therefore, it is possible that all the water in the tank drained out. If so, using something to hold the yellow flapper down will not stop the continuous draining.
(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)
(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)
=1= If the Yellow Release holds while on Water Pump then your city-water Pressure Regulator is bad (if that is possible) or more likely not a 50 PSI or less regulator. Any local store with an RV Supply section will have a replacement to try.
= 2 = If Yellow Release still won't hold using T@B Water Pump - - - then set Adle in winter by-pass mode and live with heating water on stove top. Winter by-pass still allows for Alde cabin heat but will remove the hot water tank and Yellow Release valve from the water pressure loop.
I for one would not force the valve to stay closed.
TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
Adventures: 54 Nights: 341 Towing Miles 43,780
(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)
a "high pressure water hose" means that the hose will withstand high pressures (how high I do not know) before the hose bursts. It will NOT protect anything from high pressures. The max allowed pressure in the TAB water system is about 50 psi. It is possible, depending on many factors out of our control, that the supplied water pressure at a campsite could be significantly higher than 50 psi. Assuming you bought your TAB new, and assuming things haven't changed lately, there should have been a blue plastic water pressure regulator included in the welcome package from nuCamp. If you didn't get one of these then water pressure regulators are available at any RV store or online. Any regulator that will hold the pressure down to 50 psi or less will do. They are not very expensive and are a good investment--as you may unfortunately already have discovered. Don't bother with an expensive adjustable regulator like I bought. Once you get the pressure set you will never need to change it!
Don't feel bad about being a "dumb newbie." We were ALL dumb newbies at some point. Now some of us are "dumb oldies."
(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)
(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)