Hi all - have searched and not found a discussion that looks like my issue yet. I purchased a used 2014 T@B 320 S 7 days ago and have been camping in it since.
we already discovered an issue wherein the glycol overflow tube was taped to the end of the hot water over flow tube.... and I have all thee over flow tubes draining out through the rubber stopper now.
Friday we hitched up for the second time, to haul out for a night in a different location. When we got there (2 hour drive) I double checked those overflow tubes - they were still connected to the rubber stopper. And the cabinet was dry.
Saturday morning there were no issues. We had not turned on the Alde system at all, and had no hookups there. We had rain over night. Then we drove two hours back to our home base - much of that was in heavy rain.
When we arrived, there was water all over the floor - enough to soak the floor rug in the kitchen. The Alde compartment was wettest, and evidence it drained under the seat cabinets out into the open. ( over flow tubes still correctly seated) No walls or seat cushions were wet. Not wet inside the freshwater tank cabinet or under the fridge, nor in the bathroom.
thoughts? Surely that’s not road water splashing up into the cabin. I did use the hot water last week - so that system should have had water in it - could that have drained out on the drive into the cabinet?
Comments
Former steward of a 2017 T@B S Max
https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/6393/maintenance-notices
https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/9923/caulking-guide#latest
(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)
The drivers side tire was so close to the plastic wheel well liner, that it wore a hole in it...! The tires are still very new. We’ve temporarily fixed this now by duck taping the wheel well, and inserting washers between the tire and lug bolts ( opposite side from lug nuts) to space the tire out further from the camper body.
I think your tire is the correct size so something must be misaligned--let us know what nuCamp advises.
Just out of curiosity, did the rubbing of the tire clear off that entire area in black inside the wheel well, or was that from you wiping off that area so you would have a clean surface for the duct tape? I only ask, because the wear on the tire appears to only be about as wide as the area it damaged.
(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)
(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)
I'm really curious about this situation.
The torsion axle is welded to a bracket which is then bolted to the trailer frame rails. On my TAB400 there is approximately 1.5 inches of clearance between the inside of the tire and the outside of the wheel well liner. One way the tire could be rubbing on the liner is if the axle had shifted to one side somehow. To do that the frame would have to be bent. I think it would take a pretty hard whack directly on the side of the trailer to have bent the frame rails and if that happened there should be some other evidence of that hit.
How much clearance between the wheel and the liner is there on the other side? Do you see any evidence of a bent frame? If so, both sides would be bent the same amount.
Oh! One other thought: Are the wheels the same on both sides? If a previous owner had replaced a wheel for some reason he/she might have not used a wheel with the correct offset. If they mounted a wheel with a positive offset that would mount the wheel closer to the inside of the vehicle. On the 2019 TAB400--and probably all other TABs as well--the wheels have a zero offset. That means the back face of the wheel (the part that is flush to the brake drum) is directly on the centerline of the wheel. A positive offset would mean the back face is somewhere along the outer half of the wheel--and thus the wheel sits farther inboard.
You could ask Discount Tire to measure the offset of the affected wheel. Unless they have to pull the wheel they will probably do this for free.
Please let us know what you eventually find out.
drivers side tire - something like 100 miles on this tire. It s the one that rubbed - is a ST205/75D14.
what’s the D vs R? It did kinda seem like the cross section of the tire was different, that the D version bulged wider are the tread edge than the R version which at least contributed some to the smaller gap?
"D" = tires that are built with criss-crossed plies and are commonly referred to as bias-constructed tires, or bias-ply. They are less flexible and more prone to overheating.
"R" = radial tire construction, which is the industry standard for most tires. Radial tires are what you want to use.
You should not mix radial tires with bias-ply tires, at least not for longer distance travel. As a temporary fix (e.g., for a short trip to a repair facility) they will be OK, but the two tires track and wear differently. I am not a tire expert, so ask your BIL to check me on this, but the "D" tire may stick out further on the sidewall and be creating your problem. If the previous owner put the wrong tire on, maybe they (or the tire shop that put the tire on your trailer) should be footing the repair bill............
You should have your trailer axle and tires checked before you do any long distance travel.
(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)
Obviously something has happened if you have two different types of construction on two new tires. I think you should get the tire issue resolved before you make a 12-14 trip with it. @Bayliss is correct about the rolling characteristics of the different tires. And I am a bit worried about a long drive with washers behind the lug nuts. You might not be able to maintain proper torque on the lug nuts. If you do have to drive home like that stop frequently to check the tightness of the lug nuts.
Is the spare a bias ply tire (D) or a radial ply (R) tire? Since the trailer is a 2016 model it sounds like they replaced weather-checked tires with new tires in order to sell it. They probably bought two road tires (both bias ply) and mounted one on the road and the other as a spare. The original spare went on the passenger side of the trailer and is a radial ply. My guess is that they just didn't know the difference and the bias ply tires were cheaper.
In any case, the bias ply tires don't fit.
Axel alignment - they confirmed on the lift what we could see by looking from the ground - the camper body was mounted about an inch from center, to the drivers side. So while the axle is centered to the frame, the wheel well has less than an inch clearance from the brake drum on drivers side, while it’s over 2 inches on passenger side. Spacers behind the drivers side tire is the only solution - though they replaced our washers (a good in-the-moment hack according to them), with actual tire spacers). Only thing I can think of is that the sellers must have had spacers, and when they replaced that tire immediately before I bought it, someone removed them not knowing why they were there??
So, just to see if I have this correctly, the axle is centered on the frame, but the cabin was mounted off center??? That is really weird. sounds like a factory error--unless the previous owner did some really odd work on the rig.
Glad you have a safe solution though.