Hello. Need some help. My t@b air conditioner has a small drip after I turned it off. Ran it for a couple hours then when I went to bed it dripped down the window into my pillow. Any ideas? I just got the camper on Friday!
The drain hole for the A/C is in the right front corner as you face the A/C. You need to level the TaB slightly head down to get it to drain, otherwise it stays in the pan and your bed gets wet.
@Herg, please do not remove the plug. It is possibly the Alde glycol drain that is plugged to keep the glycol in.
The hose you are looking for may be inside the frame and further towards the aisle in your T@B. You are looking for a clear hose, not a black hose. On my 2014, mine came down inside the metal frame and was resting on the bottom of the “C” channel frame. It was hard to find.
You should only be looking in front of driver’s side tire, directly below the wall that has your Alde controls on it.
Verna, Columbus, IN 2021 T@B 320S Boondock “The T@B” Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
@Herg, here is a picture of the area under the TaB in front of the driver’s side tire. The tube in the top of the photo is the plugged glycol drain which is only used when you change out the glycol. The fat, lower tube is the A/C condensation drain.
My apologies, @Herg. From your first photo, and as I questioned whether that photo was generally in front of the driver's side tire, that should be where your A/C drain is located. In that photo, it looks like a cork-type plug. The Alde drain plug is much clearer in @Sharon_is_SAM's photo, so I am glad she posted it.
Just fyi, here's what our A/C drain pan looks like with the unit removed..
Ours slopes away from the vent wall & slightly towards the front. The drain hole is in that little extension towards the front inside corner of the pan that goes inside the wall.
-Brian in Chester, Virginia TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6) RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods
Wow thank you. Do you think you could see this from behind the Moore or in the bathroom? It does look like if the trailer was higher in the front it would not hit the drain and go out towards the back for ire. Thank you.
I get rain that comes into the A/C external vents, pools in that pan, and then leaks out of the rear, inside corner of the AC box. Isn't that a plastic bin pan that all the water should be caught in? Any thoughts about what's going on?
I had this identical problem, which I attribute to poor design and shoddy implementation--more like a hack than a tidy install (nuCamp could do better). I pulled the AC, and caulked where the drain pan meets the wooden walls. And now I'm also cautious to keep the tongue a little down.
We have a crack in our CS 320 ac pan. Got dripped on one night, and temporarily solved it by pointing the trailer toward the drain tube. Now we’ve pulled the ac out and trying to figure out how to patch it/place another pan inside the cracked factory-made pan. Any suggestions on patching the crack?
I had this identical problem, which I attribute to poor design and shoddy implementation--more like a hack than a tidy install (nuCamp could do better)...
nüCamp did, they changed the entire design, and eliminated the window type AC and are installing the Air8 AC units under the dinette seat bench, which drains out the bottom. While the Air8 had issues in the 400, they seem to work well in the 320s.
Cheers
2018 TaB400 Custom Boondock, Jeep Gladiator truck, Northern California Coast.
Yup, once the A/C was out, I shot a whole tube of sealant all around the outer edge of the pan where it comes close to that aluminum frame. Pushed it in with a finger, all the way around, then ran it up the sides on the aluminum. That way the crack in the corner doesn't matter unless it runs all the way into the box where you can see it under where the air conditioner was. But start by cleaning everything with alcohol. You can use epoxy, or the infamous JB Weld too, but a good sealant that won't dry out and crack in that hot box is cheaper. And if you ever decide to take the box apart, you can slice through sealant with a utility knife, whereas JB Weld can stand up to an acetylene torch.
Although it would probably be a good idea to spread JB Weld for plastics, or equivalent, on the visible crack you can see from the outer corner, just so it doesn't spread further. But I had a similar crack and didn't bother.
Does make me wonder if everyone with an overhead A/C has a similar crack, since so many mention they initially got dripped on before either pointing the nose 1.5° down, or sealing up the pan.
2021 Jeep Gladiator, 2021 tiny toy hauler, Austin TX Former steward of a 2017 T@B S Max
oh and once it no longer drips even with the nose a little high, consider putting a 1" piece of rigid foam insulation on the underside of that air conditioner box. That plastic pan is like 120F in the summer and radiates heat into the cabin.
2021 Jeep Gladiator, 2021 tiny toy hauler, Austin TX Former steward of a 2017 T@B S Max
Comments
2021 T@B 320S Boondock “The T@B”
Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)
Ours slopes away from the vent wall & slightly towards the front. The drain hole is in that little extension towards the front inside corner of the pan that goes inside the wall.
TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6)
RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods
(Photo too large and deleted.)
cheers
cheers
Although it would probably be a good idea to spread JB Weld for plastics, or equivalent, on the visible crack you can see from the outer corner, just so it doesn't spread further. But I had a similar crack and didn't bother.
Does make me wonder if everyone with an overhead A/C has a similar crack, since so many mention they initially got dripped on before either pointing the nose 1.5° down, or sealing up the pan.
Former steward of a 2017 T@B S Max
Former steward of a 2017 T@B S Max