3 way frig

hummingbird6

Does any one have any advice about the Norcold 3 way frig not working on battery. It works great when plugged in to regular AC power and works on propane, but nothing on battery. Also if we can figure out how to get it fixed, can we leave it on battery while driving. We go boondocking and we have solar to keep the battery charged once we get to a spot. 

MuttonChops

a]  There are fuses on top of fridge (under stove) as well as the WFCO Power Center primary fuse.  Also DC 'on' indicator light have been known to burn out.  Items to check / consider.

b]  Lots of threads with negative/positive experience on using 12VDC Fridge while driving. Suggest you do a few searches on this forum.  Several different factors can impact your specific results using 12VDC setting. Note Fridge draws a  steady 11Amps, there is no thermostat temperature control on DC power.

RFraer

Make sure you have the fan turned on. That’s the switch above the frig with the blue light. When I ran it on 12v it drained the batteries. Even when hooked to the tow vehicle and with solar.

Blueespy

we have a 2019 t@b 400 BDL with the NORCOLD 3-way and switch to DC whenever we are towing - be sure to turn the little button next to the radio so you see a green light.  Our longest trip was 3-months without issue.  But, yesterday as we packed up to head home after a two week trip we got an ERROR 6 code when we switched to DC.  Apparently, this means not enough juice in the batteries which is strange as we were hooked to shore power the last two days but kept the solar on so the batteries would charge.  We have a mobile tech coming tomorrow to check it out.  Hope whatever the problem, it's not too expensive.

ChanW

You'll be lucky if your tow vehicle charging system will put out enough power to power the three way. From the many folks reporting on the forum, maybe half of us can't seem to keep the Tab battery charged while driving with the three way running. Many modern alternator systems are programmed to only put out enough juice to charge the vehicle's battery.

As @MuttonChops said, the 3-Way requires 11amps continuous, which is quite a draw from your battery, as well as from your solar panel.

For your boondocking, you'd be better off depending on propane for the fridge. It doesn't use much - there are a few discussions on the forum here where people advise how much it will consume for an extended trip.

AirBoss

As for operations while towing, if your fridge and freezer are very well stocked, the fridge will keep your provisions quite cold for several hours if it is left off. Ideal, no. But depending on how long you'll be rollin down the highway its an option that saves the battery.

Lots of posts about tricking your alternator by towing with headlights on which may result in it putting out a higher voltage. 

Denny16

@Blueespy Did you have your battery switch off whilst you were hooked up to AC?  If so, the battery does not get AC mains charge when the battery switch is off.  However, solar will continue to charge the battery.  Suggest turning off battery switch (in evening with no solar) and take a voltage reading on yiur battery.
cheers

Blueespy

ChanW said:

You'll be lucky if your tow vehicle charging system will put out enough power to power the three way. From the many folks reporting on the forum, maybe half of us can't seem to keep the Tab battery charged while driving with the three way running. Many modern alternator systems are programmed to only put out enough juice to charge the vehicle's battery.

As @MuttonChops said, the 3-Way requires 11amps continuous, which is quite a draw from your battery, as well as from your solar panel.

For your boondocking, you'd be better off depending on propane for the fridge. It doesn't use much - there are a few discussions on the forum here where people advise how much it will consume for an extended trip.

Thank you.  Until recently, we pulled our t@b with first a 2017 Jeep Grand Cherokee Trailhawk and later a 2020 Jeep Grand Cherokee High Altitude.  No issues what-so-ever with the Norcold.  It wasn't until we started pulling with our 2020 Ford F-150 that the Norcold issues began.

Blueespy

AirBoss said:

As for operations while towing, if your fridge and freezer are very well stocked, the fridge will keep your provisions quite cold for several hours if it is left off. Ideal, no. But depending on how long you'll be rollin down the highway its an option that saves the battery.

Lots of posts about tricking your alternator by towing with headlights on which may result in it putting out a higher voltage. 

Our 2019 t@b 400 did not come with a backup camera, so we've installed the Furrion which taps into the rear tail lights on the t@b for power, so we run with our lights on.  I've read that some newer vehicles with factory installed tow packages have very sensitive 7-pin connectors.  I'm going to test mine tomorrow and then clean and grease it. 

kmulh

I tow with a 2020 F150 and have no issues at all. What problems do you have? It's a towing beast. I have the max tow package and the alternator has no problems keeping the batteries charged with the fridge running. 

Blueespy

Denny16 said:

@Blueespy Did you have your battery switch off whilst you were hooked up to AC?  If so, the battery does not get AC mains charge when the battery switch is off.  However, solar will continue to charge the battery.  Suggest turning off battery switch (in evening with no solar) and take a voltage reading on yiur battery.
cheers

Our practice or routine is once we head out on a trip, we turn the solar switch to the ON position and leave it.  On our recent trip, we departed home and drove 5-hrs and parked for the night at a State Park.  When we switched from DC to AC, everything was normal.  The next morning when we disconnected AC and went to DC again no issues.  We then drove for another 4 hours and parked, doing the DC to AC switch without issue.  We stayed parked for four days and departed.  We drove for 2-hrs and stopped to restock and saw our Norcold flashing the error 6.  Fortunately, it was cold so we just turned the system off, kept the solar battery in the ON position and drove on to our next stop.  Once there as a test, we went to DC and all was well so we went back to AC for our two day stop.  On our departure morning, switched to DC and got the error code.  The manual says the trailer has to be connected to the vehicle and the vehicle running.  This wasn't something we did with our previous tow vehicles, so I'm wondering if there is an issue with our 7pin connect at the truck and trailer.

Blueespy

kmulh said:

I tow with a 2020 F150 and have no issues at all. What problems do you have? It's a towing beast. I have the max tow package and the alternator has no problems keeping the batteries charged with the fridge running. 

We love towing with our 2020 F-150 and it has the factory installed tow package.  I have no idea why we are now having battery issues with our Norcold.  As I mentioned above, on our second outing we stopped to restock and when we opened the trailer to stock the Norcold we saw the blink error #6.  According to the manual, a #6 error deals with DC power being insufficient.  I have a question for you; is there a sequence you use when you start?  Meaning when our tow was the jeep, the last thing we would do after we've connected the trailer to the Jeep and we're ready to travel is switch the Norcold to DC power.  For the trailer to see DC power from the 7-pin, Ford says the vehicle must be running, a trailer selected, and the driver's door closed.  Thanks.

kmulh

Blueespy said:
I have a question for you; is there a sequence you use when you start?

I haven't really payed attention to a specific sequence, but I've only been out 4 trips with the F150.  The one thing I do is to ensure the trailer is detected by the F150 after I plug it in.  My battery is generally fully charged before I plug the truck in and it seems to stay that way as I travel.  Do you lose charge on your batteries while you are towing?

bergger

Sounds like the truck is not charging the trailer battery at all or adequately.  And since it has happened intermittently it may be just a loose connection at the truck or an issue with the charge line in the truck or at the receptacle.  Have you check it with a multimeter to see what the power output is? I know on my Nissan Titan the plug was a little loose so I used some grip tape to tighten it up and all is well.  But even with a 200 amp alternator I will usually have to turn the 12v off on our fridge every once in a while on long trips to allow the trailer battery to charge back up to full.  Dang smart alternators drive me crazy! I'm debating installing a dc to dc charger.  Also Blueespy what do you mean when you say you turn the solar switch on?  The solar should always be on and I am not aware of any switch?  

dragonsdofly

@kmulh, check to see if your charging line is fused. Although we have experience only with gm products, we've had 3 so far that have full tow packages, 7 pin connectors and the charging lines built in, but the charging lines are not active until we have placed a fuse in the box. Until then, power does not flow to the 7 pin. Ford products may be different, but it's a thought.

kmulh

@dragonsdofly
Fuse #30 is a 25A for trailer tow battery charge.  That fuse exists in mine from the factory.  @Blueespy You may want to double check that it isn't blown.

AirBoss

Blueespy said:

AirBoss said:

As for operations while towing, if your fridge and freezer are very well stocked, the fridge will keep your provisions quite cold for several hours if it is left off. Ideal, no. But depending on how long you'll be rollin down the highway its an option that saves the battery.

Lots of posts about tricking your alternator by towing with headlights on which may result in it putting out a higher voltage. 

Our 2019 t@b 400 did not come with a backup camera, so we've installed the Furrion which taps into the rear tail lights on the t@b for power, so we run with our lights on.  I've read that some newer vehicles with factory installed tow packages have very sensitive 7-pin connectors.  I'm going to test mine tomorrow and then clean and grease it. 

Good plan on cleaning the contacts. Be aware, make sure you've turned off the Battery Switch in the T@B before you about using any conductive material (like toothbrush style metal brush) to clean the connectors in the 7-pin. 

Don't ask me how I know this!! 

Blueespy

kmulh said:

Blueespy said:
I have a question for you; is there a sequence you use when you start?

I haven't really payed attention to a specific sequence, but I've only been out 4 trips with the F150.  The one thing I do is to ensure the trailer is detected by the F150 after I plug it in.  My battery is generally fully charged before I plug the truck in and it seems to stay that way as I travel.  Do you lose charge on your batteries while you are towing?

Thank you.  I do the same and did this sequence today and had no errors.  First I checked the strength of the batteries and their showed full.  I then connected the trailer to the F-150 (after cleaning and greasing the 7-pin).  Inside, close the door, foot on the brake, start and the trailer was recognized.  Lights on and my Furrion camera was working.  Used my blinkers and confirmed the trailer lights/blinkers were working.  Went inside, turned the Norcold on, the selected A (according to the manual, the Norcold will select the best power option or the one available).  After a few seconds, it recognized the batteries, showed the battery icon on the digital screen and started working.  Oh, before turning the Norcold on, I turned on the fan.  Everything worked as it should but I have a friend who does Mobile RV repair and he's going to help me check the 7-pin as well as the Norcold control board Friday.  I have not noticed any lost of charge in the batteries while I'm towing.

Blueespy

bergger said:

Sounds like the truck is not charging the trailer battery at all or adequately.  And since it has happened intermittently it may be just a loose connection at the truck or an issue with the charge line in the truck or at the receptacle.  Have you check it with a multimeter to see what the power output is? I know on my Nissan Titan the plug was a little loose so I used some grip tape to tighten it up and all is well.  But even with a 200 amp alternator I will usually have to turn the 12v off on our fridge every once in a while on long trips to allow the trailer battery to charge back up to full.  Dang smart alternators drive me crazy! I'm debating installing a dc to dc charger.  Also Blueespy what do you mean when you say you turn the solar switch on?  The solar should always be on and I am not aware of any switch?  

I have a Mobile RV repair guy meeting me Friday to do a check.  I'm handy but for some reason I'm all thumbs trying to figure out how to use a multimeter.  I know if you put the leads on the ground and positive (DC) you should get a reading of between 11-13.  Regarding the solar switch.  My mistake, it's the battery on/off switch located just inside and to the right of the passenger side storage compartment.

Blueespy

dragonsdofly said:

@kmulh, check to see if your charging line is fused. Although we have experience only with gm products, we've had 3 so far that have full tow packages, 7 pin connectors and the charging lines built in, but the charging lines are not active until we have placed a fuse in the box. Until then, power does not flow to the 7 pin. Ford products may be different, but it's a thought.

That was actually my first thought, so I checked the fuse box and all fuses are there.  I think it was slot 30 and a 25A fuse for the 7-pin DC power. 

Blueespy

AirBoss said:

Blueespy said:

AirBoss said:

As for operations while towing, if your fridge and freezer are very well stocked, the fridge will keep your provisions quite cold for several hours if it is left off. Ideal, no. But depending on how long you'll be rollin down the highway its an option that saves the battery.

Lots of posts about tricking your alternator by towing with headlights on which may result in it putting out a higher voltage. 

Our 2019 t@b 400 did not come with a backup camera, so we've installed the Furrion which taps into the rear tail lights on the t@b for power, so we run with our lights on.  I've read that some newer vehicles with factory installed tow packages have very sensitive 7-pin connectors.  I'm going to test mine tomorrow and then clean and grease it. 

Good plan on cleaning the contacts. Be aware, make sure you've turned off the Battery Switch in the T@B before you about using any conductive material (like toothbrush style metal brush) to clean the connectors in the 7-pin. 

Don't ask me how I know this!! 

I use a spray and it does a very good job and dries quickly.  I won't ask but yep, I could see myself doing that.  Thanks for the heads up.

Blueespy

kmulh said:

@dragonsdofly
Fuse #30 is a 25A for trailer tow battery charge.  That fuse exists in mine from the factory.  @Blueespy You may want to double check that it isn't blown.

Thank you.  One of the first things I did.  I thought since I had the manual brake control installed at the time of purchase, perhaps they were in a hurry and forgot about the fuse.  Nope, it was there. 

Blueespy

Just back from a two week trip and wanted to share this update with folks in the hope someone might have a suggestion.  Starting our day, once we are connected and our TV is running my wife will switch our Norcold to A and it will automatically detect DC power from the batteries.  She'll turn the little green button on and away we go.  However, whenever we stop and I turn our TV off, the Norcold begins flashing an error code 6, that from the Norcold manual means a DC power issue.  While the Norcold is flashing the error, I go to the Nucamp control and push the battery button and sure enough it shows only one light.  Now here is where it gets strange.  I'll go out, start the TV and the alert goes away and the batteries show full charge.  If I'm not connected to our TV and engage the Norcold with DC, it runs without issue.  So, why the error and why does it pop up only when I turn the TV off? 

85Redwood

The massive 12V load may be draining your T@B batteries while driving.  The battery monitor is likely showing full charge because its detecting the umbilical voltage from your TV.

If the TV isn't running and disconnecting the umbilical causes the T@B's battery level to switch from drained to fully charged then I'd be stumped.

I tow with the fridge running off propane...a topic more polarizing than politics!

pthomas745

Not sure how or what the Norcold senses or monitors the battery status.  But, whenever a load is placed on any battery, the state of charge reading of the battery will drop.  The larger the load, the lower the state of charge reading will drop.  This is a "false capacity".  Turn the load off, and the battery will settle down, and after a while, will give you a more accurate reading.  Even your newer fridge, only using say....3 amp hours....is making your car battery (or, maybe the trailer battery, if this is what the Norcold is reading) do this.  The Norcold senses what it thinks is a "low battery", and reacts with the error message. 

Just turning on the fan in my trailer makes the Victron voltage readings drop.  A 12.6 reading will drop to 12.09 while the fan is running. 

What fridge is it?  Does the manual give any indication of how it monitors your battery?

ScottG

@Blueespy, what you are describing makes sense to me, up until the last sentence:

Blueespy said:

...
If I'm not connected to our TV and engage the Norcold with DC, it runs without issue.  
...

When you are hooked up to your running vehicle, the vehicle supplies 12V power to the camper via the pigtail. This provides enough juice to run your fridge and also make simple monitors show a "full" battery charge.

Once you turn off your tow vehicle, the power is cut and the T@B battery takes over the 12V power supply. If the battery is not sufficiently charged, the fridge won't run and the monitor will reflect the battery's weakened state.

So, what you describe points to an undercharged and perhaps faulty battery, except that last part about everything working fine when the tow vehicle is taken out of the equation.

A guess--and a weak one at that--is that something related to the pigtail circuits is shorting when the T/V is connected and causing a big drain on the battery. 

Blueespy

ScottG said:

@Blueespy, what you are describing makes sense to me, up until the last sentence:

Blueespy said:

...
If I'm not connected to our TV and engage the Norcold with DC, it runs without issue.  
...

When you are hooked up to your running vehicle, the vehicle supplies 12V power to the camper via the pigtail. This provides enough juice to run your fridge and also make simple monitors show a "full" battery charge.

Once you turn off your tow vehicle, the power is cut and the T@B battery takes over the 12V power supply. If the battery is not sufficiently charged, the fridge won't run and the monitor will reflect the battery's weakened state.

So, what you describe points to an undercharged and perhaps faulty battery, except that last part about everything working fine when the tow vehicle is taken out of the equation.

A guess--and a weak one at that--is that something related to the pigtail circuits is shorting when the T/V is connected and causing a big drain on the battery. 

Thanks ScottG.  Thought the same but then once I disconnect from the TV, shut the Norcold down and restart it runs fine on 12V and my batteries show full. 

Blueespy

pthomas745 said:

Not sure how or what the Norcold senses or monitors the battery status.  But, whenever a load is placed on any battery, the state of charge reading of the battery will drop.  The larger the load, the lower the state of charge reading will drop.  This is a "false capacity".  Turn the load off, and the battery will settle down, and after a while, will give you a more accurate reading.  Even your newer fridge, only using say....3 amp hours....is making your car battery (or, maybe the trailer battery, if this is what the Norcold is reading) do this.  The Norcold senses what it thinks is a "low battery", and reacts with the error message. 

Just turning on the fan in my trailer makes the Victron voltage readings drop.  A 12.6 reading will drop to 12.09 while the fan is running. 

What fridge is it?  Does the manual give any indication of how it monitors your battery?

We have the Norcold N3104.  The Norcold is reading the trailer battery but it is definitely a false reading that is somehow triggered when I turn the TV off.

Blueespy

ChanW said:

You'll be lucky if your tow vehicle charging system will put out enough power to power the three way. From the many folks reporting on the forum, maybe half of us can't seem to keep the Tab battery charged while driving with the three way running. Many modern alternator systems are programmed to only put out enough juice to charge the vehicle's battery.

As @MuttonChops said, the 3-Way requires 11amps continuous, which is quite a draw from your battery, as well as from your solar panel.

For your boondocking, you'd be better off depending on propane for the fridge. It doesn't use much - there are a few discussions on the forum here where people advise how much it will consume for an extended trip.

We plan to try propane on our next trip, however, I've never ran it on propane so the other day I connected the tank, bled the lines of air, then switched the Norcold to propane and got an error 3 code.  The Norcold support line was less than helpful and the two numbers they gave me for local service are both out of business. 

Sharon_is_SAM

@Blueespy - it may be helpful to get a 12v plug-in meter so you would have some measurements rather than rely on the limited info from the built-in battery monitor.  This seems to be unique to your F 150.  Any way to hook up to another TV to see if it happens again?  

AirBoss

@Blueespy
Believe Fault Code 3 is failure to ignite.

Usually this means (i) the electrode that ignites the LP is either bad or the gap between the electrode and the flame port is incorrect (s/b about 1/4" or 3/16" if I recall) or (ii) you're not getting LP to the flame port. Shut everything down (fridge and LP). Open LP tank slowly but fully. Have someone stand near the back of the fridge with the panel off and the little portal cover open so they can see the flame port, while you turn the fridge on and select LP. You should hear a click and they should see a spark. If there's a spark but no flame, it's probably an LP issue and one issue could be that the valve just upstream from the flame port is not open allowing LP to flow to the flame port. The LP lines have also been known to get air trapped in the line that prevents the gas from flowing to or from the valve but it sounds like you've bled the system (how?) already and presume you've fired up your stove so you know you have LP flow.

If there's no spark, it's likely the electrode itself or the power board.

You can access the electrode and flame port with a little effort and clean them up. It may help. At least you've eliminated one possible nit.