3 way frig

TomCanada

You can bleed the system of air by lighting your propane cooktop and letting it run for a minute.

AirBoss

@TomCanada
I don't profess to know how the LP lines run but it would seem possible that air could be trapped in the line to or in the fridge itself and opening/running the cooktop would have no effect on the fridge. It's not as though the LP line runs to and through the fridge and then on the cooktop so that opening the cooktop will perge the lines in the fridge. At least I don't believe that's how it's plumbed?

Dunno...just asking outload in case you or others can weigh in. 

TomCanada

There could conceivably still be a small amount of air in the segment between the main run and the fridge, but that amount should be negligible and bleed out quickly once you try to start the fridge.

ScottG

@Blueespy, given that you are getting two different fault codes under different circumstances, I'm more suspicious that the problem lies within the fridge itself rather than the supply of propane or battery juice.

It's noteworthy that a bit of 12V power is required for the fridge to run on propane (at least that is how it is with my older 3-way), so perhaps something with the internal 12V circuitry is the culprit.

Again, just guessing here. Keep us posted as you sleuth this out.

Blueespy

Appreciate all the suggestions.  After spending most of an afternoon trouble shooting with tips from the forum and Norcold manual we couldn't solve the problem.  Had to break down and take it to a service center where after 30-mins it was determined we had a bad control board.  Quite expensive but we should be good to go now.  Mentioned the DC error code when we turn off the TV and the tech will check the 7-pin on the trailer.  Worse case we've decided to just power off the Norcold while driving and not access the fridge.  We read that if you don't access the fridge, there should a minimal lost in temp, probably around 4°.  I plan to check that when I get the camper back and we're packing for our next trip.  Again appreciate all the responses and suggestions.  

Blueespy

UPDATE - Tech diagnosed a bad control board and replaced it.  In checking the DC issue he found a wire from the Norcold that after speaking to Norcold Tech, learned was a Engine Running Signal Wire, which was disconnected.  Not sure how this happened or why there was never an issue with our previous TV but bottom line Norcold suggested connecting the wire to running light.  Everything worked as it should from the Tech Center to the RV Storage lot.  We're going to test everything again next week prior to our camping adventure.  The pain in all of this was how much RV techs charge per hour.  OUCH. 

Blueespy

UPDATE to UPDATE  While the new control board fixed the LP power issue, we still can't get the Norcold to run on battery, except when it's connected to the TV, TV is powered on and running lights are on.  Never had this issue before; fridge worked perfectly on DC whether boondocking or connected to the TV.  I've checked all the fridge fuses, checked the fuse box and reset the fuse on the inverter.  The Victron shows the solar is working and the batteries charging.  The ONLY thing I haven't done is remove the battery cover and physically checked the batteries.  I think I read somewhere there is an inline fuse from the positive that runs to the Norcold.  Is this correct?  It's a pain access the batteries and I don't mind doing it, but I would rather avoid it if there are no fuses under the cover to check.  We have an early 2019 t@b 400 BDL with the cool cat system. 

Blueespy

kmulh said:

I tow with a 2020 F150 and have no issues at all. What problems do you have? It's a towing beast. I have the max tow package and the alternator has no problems keeping the batteries charged with the fridge running. 

We "think" we have the problem solved.  When towing the fridge works great on DC because it's drawing power from the truck.  However, that power isn't sufficient to keep the batteries charged so what's happening is when we stop down the road and turn the TV off, we get the error of insufficient DC power on the fridge.  Can I confirm, you have the Norcold 3-way fridge?  Thanks

AirBoss

To be clear, the fridge runs fine on LP, Shore Power, and while towing or parked with TV running. The only time it doesn't work is on T@B batteries, correct.

With a new board as well, that would seem to indicate an issue getting 12V power to the fridge. 

All other 12V systems work as expected? Had a meter on the batteries? 

Blueespy

Closure - finally "discovered" the issue or rather the issue for us.  For us, the standard 7-pin is not providing adequate power to the trailer to charge the batteries.  So, when we are driving the Norcold is being powered from the t@b batteries which are not being recharged by the tow vehicle via the seven pin.  Now, how did I discover this you may ask; well I simply took a trip using our other tow vehicle, a 2020 Jeep Grand Cherokee and wouldn't you know it, we had no issues.  Everything worked exactly as it should, so the problem is again with the 7pin.  This is addressed on several Ford forums with lots of complaints but no input from Ford.  So, we installed a DC to DC converter.  Ran the power from the main tow battery under the vehicle to a plug on the bumper.  We installed an on/off switch at the battery as well as an inline fuse.  The DC to DC is connected to the t@b via the circuit box right under the window near the frame.  What I do now is connect the t@b to the tow (F150), start the tow then turn the switch next to the battery to on.  I confirm the Dc to DC is running and away we go.