Solar problems

Sharon_is_SAM

What is the big orange cap for on the right side of the tub?

Denny16

 @Kr@cken it could use some cleaning up, and good wire management, with cables secured down in groups.  But some nüCamp WiFi is also messy in this regards.  But the battery box is the exposed bit that is most important.  The wires in the MPPT compartment looping in front of the black tube/duct, should at least be rounded behind like the other wires are.  

Personally I would then bundle and zip tie the lot to keep them in place and from being pulled on.  The connections to the Solar Controller (blue box) should have enough slack at the connections so the wire is not strained or being pulled on at the connection.  This holds for all wire connections along the way and in the battery box.

cheers

VictoriaP

Sharon_is_SAM said:

What is the big orange cap for on the right side of the tub?

That’s the battery cutoff for her Purpleline trailer mover. It’s a key-type cutoff (I have the same thing, but mine was installed in the sidewall of the tub so I can access it without opening the lid.)

AirBoss

@Sharon_is_SAM
@Denny16
Thanks to you both. I anticipate installing one in the near future so this is helpful and I appreciate @Kr@cken bringing this up and sympathize with their situation. Learning from others here...always appreciated. 

I also agree it could use some clean up and covers. Also it does appear as though the three main cables on the battery bank (positive, negative and series cable between the two batteries) are undersized? I'm no SME on this stuff but I seem to recall those should be something like 2/0 00AWG type cables on systems that have this level of amperage? Dunno...but if @Kr@cken is headed back to the shope for a fix perhaps they can/should upgrade those? 

Wish you good luck @Kr@cken and please keep us in the loop on how this goes! 

Kr@cken

Will do, 

Denny16

@AirBoss , In a boat or larger RV I would agree on using the 0 Or 0p for batrery connections, but on a TaB300 series, with smaller DC systems a No. 4 is large enough, and the battery jumper wire connecting the two batteries should be sized to the battery amperage, if they are 60 or 100 amp batteries, the jumper should be no 4 or 2AWG battery cable.  Good catch, missed that one.  

Cheers

Denny16

@VictoriaP, if that is  the battery cutoff for her Purpleline trailer mover, where is the battery cut off switch?  I have seen regular 30 amp battery cutoff switches that look like this.  There are no other no 8 or 10 positive battery connection cables, other than the one to the orange cap switch.  Given the way it is installed, it looks like a factory made switch mount setup.  

Cheers 

VictoriaP

Denny16 said:

@VictoriaP, if that is  the battery cutoff for her Purpleline trailer mover, where is the battery cut off switch?  I have seen regular 30 amp battery cutoff switches that look like this.  There are no other no 8 or 10 positive battery connection cables, other than the one to the orange cap switch.  Given the way it is installed, it looks like a factory made switch mount setup.  

Cheers 

Every factory switch I’ve seen has been this type:

While the switch Purpleline includes is this one:

Perhaps Apache (the dealer involved) swapped it out, but if so, I’d be surprised, that would not make sense to me as there’s no reason for the Purpleline’s computer to be a constant draw on the battery. It would not be difficult to build out the corner section where that switch is installed after the fact...it looks like it’s just a bit of bent diamond plate and some pop rivets.

But I could be wrong. If they did swap out the standard cutoff for the key type, I’d ask why. The standard switch is way more convenient than keeping track of that pesky key. I can’t find a pic of the inside of the 2021 320 battery area, since that appears to be a 2021 tub retrofitted onto what I understood was a 2020 trailer. 

Denny16

You are right as usual Victoria, Kr@cken PM me a shot showing where her battery cut off switch was moved to, it’s on the front of the trailer next to the propane regulator, looks just like your example.  BTW, my TaB400 switch is different.  Thanks again.
cheers

Denny16

@Kr@cken, I think I found your issue.  Look at the photo of the MPPT Solar Controller wiring I posted on the previous page, is yours using the same terminals, especially the PV + connection where mine has a green wire, yours should have a red wire connected.  If not, this is the issue, and why your solar is not working.
my - white wires are crossed, so pay no attention to that.  You need a wire in both +/- positions on the PV (solar panel) and BATT (Battery) confections.  On the last photo you sent me, it appears there is no connection to The PV + terminal.
cheers

Kr@cken

Thank you so much. I was hoping to hear back from my dealer today but no luck. I am home now and going to give it a shot myself. The hardest part is access. You have all been SO very helpful.

Denny16

Do send me a photo of the MPPT shot from the front, I think I know what is wrong, but need to confirm.  Also, if you have access to a volt meter, set to DC, try measuring the folate on the PV terminals during daylight so the solar panels will be working.  This will confirm the panels are connected at this point.
cheers

Kr@cken

Here’s the photo. So should I put a lead in each of the positive and negative terminals? I really appreciate your help. Sorry for the excessive questions. They never taught this in nursing school. I bought the voltmeter because it was on someone’s suggested “must have on a T@B list” not because I know how to use one.

Denny16

@Kr@cken, I found out what your problem is, and is what I suspected.  

You see that white wire on the far left of your photo that is not connected to anything.  That wire belongs connected to the “-“ connection point labeled PV, next to (left of) the green wire.  You need a small flat blade (slot type screw) screwdriver to loosen the screw in the hole above the “-“ symbol insert the wire from the bottom until is seats in the slot, and tighten the screw firmly so the wire will not tug out.

If you do not feel comfortable doing this, call the dealer back back, or just take the trailer back to them, and ask for the manager or owner, tell them what you want corrected and show them?  You could email this photo to them, and let them know they need to fix this, and address the other issues previously discussed.
cheers

Kr@cken

I am feeling a bit more confident back at home. I took the controller off the wall and was watching the install video. I’ll slip the white one back in place. Don;t shake your head here....should the power be off? 

Denny16

You could turn the battery disconnect switch off, but that wire is hot from the solar panel, you could toss a blanket over the solar panel, or wait until dark, and make the connection.  The dealer still needs to address their install issues, especially the battery jumper wire.  Do you know the Amp rating of your batteries, 60, 70, 100?

Cheers 

Kr@cken

20 hour rate 224 amp hours 

Denny16

OK, this confirms You need a larger jumper wire connecting the two 6-volt batteries in series, at least a no.4AWG wire, and a no. 6AWG (no 4 AWG would be better)  wire between the smart shunt and the battery.
cheers

ChanW

@Kr@cken
It might just be the angle I'm seeing it, but it looks like you could trim a wee bit more insulation off that wire before inserting it into the controller terminal, too. The terminal might get a better grip that way.