I was just looking at that - without digging into the specs, it looks like they have the same dimensions (inside and out) as well as current draw. So not sure what changed..
Many, many years of camping in trailers with 3-way refrigerators, and now 1 1/2 years in the 400 with the 2-way refrigerator. I’ll never go back to a 3-way. We’ve found the 2-way to be deceptively large enough for most all our fresh or refrigerated foods. It is extremely efficient when boondocking. On longer 4 to 5+ day trips we will take either a small Yeti or larger RTIC cooler, mostly for beverages. The unit is quiet and the cycling doesn’t bother our sleep. It gets cold quickly and can freeze everything in there if you aren’t careful. The only negative for me is that it vents the warm air into the cabin, and I wish it was vented outside - at least when it is warmer weather and we don’t need heat in the cabin.
Current 400 comes with the 4104 3 way fridge. Its what our 2021 has and so far its been great over the past year of use. A couple of other threads on the merits of both. It's really preference. I love it for boon docking using propane over my battery. Gets nice and cold, more room and at eye level. On longer trips we do supplement it with our Iceco 45 12v fridge which is kept in the truck.
I wonder if nuCamp will offer that larger 2 way frig in the 2022 non-solo models. I think it would check a lot of boxes for volume and ease of access like the current 3 way.
A while back Sharon, I did a search for a larger, 3.x CF two-way compressor fridge, found one model that might work in the wardrobe space, but a new facing would be required, as it was an inch or two narrower and 4-8 inches less top to bottom.
Personally, I prefer to have the extra storage area withnthe wardrobe, and the smaller 2.3 CF fridge is more than large enough for a 4-day trip.
Cheers
2018 TaB400 Custom Boondock, Jeep Gladiator truck, Northern California Coast.
A while back Sharon, I did a search for a larger, 3.x CF two-way compressor fridge, found one model that might work in the wardrobe space, but a new facing would be required, as it was an inch or two narrower and 4-8 inches less top to bottom.
Personally, I prefer to have the extra storage area withnthe wardrobe, and the smaller 2.3 CF fridge is more than large enough for a 4-day trip.
Cheers
Isotherm Freeline 115 is a nearly perfect fit for the hole left by 3-way removal. Likely no need for futzing.
Other than Brad in NC, this thread will make you believe that 170 year old technology is still the cat's $%^. In many situations it is not, and it is dangerous. There are a lot of threads on this topic that support, with data, the 3-way as a liability in climatic conditions with sustainable heat.
2020 T@B 400 BDL towed with 2019 Nissan Frontier Pro-4X Silver City, NM
I really do appreciate all the comments on this thread. Our new 2021 400 BD is replacing a T@B Outback that was crushed by a huge oak tree that wind from leftover Hurricane Zita pushed over. The same tree also got our bedroom and the one below it. On the Outback we used a themometer to monitor the refrigerator while driving. We really struggled with keeping the refrigerator cool enough on 12 volt. We have a larger more tow worthy vehicle than we had for the Outback so I'm hopeful we won't have as much problem cooling. Here is the thermometer we used to monitor:
We have a 2019 t@b 400 bdl with the three way fridge. Never had an issue using a Jeep Grand Cherokee as the tow vehicle. Issues began when we switched to a 2020 Ford F150 5.0. On our first trip we drove for about an hour and stopped for gas. Checking the interior I see a flashing error code 7 on the fridge. This means inadequate 12v power. I was confused and so were several techs over the months following. Eventually a good google search uncovered the issue was with the Ford seven pin. Basically, the Ford computer was not providing adequate power through the seven pin to keep the t@b batteries charge and thus power the fridge. In fact, my backup camera that was powered via a connection with a rear light wouldn't power on. Yes, the rear lights worked but the camera wouldn't. The answer was a DC to DC converter. Basically we ran a power wire from the battery (with a fuse and on/off switch) through the Ford to the bumper where we attached a Harris plug. We installed the DC to DC in the front tub on the t@b and ran wires from it to the small connection box on the frame, driver's side, right under where the cool cat sat. We then ran wires from the DC to DC along the normal seven pin power cable from the t@b, attached another Harris plug. So now, when I connect our seven pin to the truck, I also attach the two Harris connectors. I make sure the on/off from the battery is on and my light switch is on. The DC to DC immediately powers up and keeps our batteries fully charged while driving. I know all of this sounds extremely complicated and at first I thought no way. But, I took the plunge, and when my son was visiting, we tackled the install. Took us about 90-mins and most of that was due to the pin setting on the DC to DC. What the manual said to set it to wasn't working, so it was a bit of trial and error but now all is good.
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Curious if there are deltas between them?
Factory Victron Solar; Norcold 3-way fridge
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