another 320S spare tire mount idea

YanniLazarus

so, wanting to reduce tongue weight by relocating my spare from the jack post to the rear, but also wanting to avoid the complication and expense of mounting a yakima-style roof rack through the spaced roof framing, I am wondering if this will work (not done yet-- this is a fantasy image):

I'd use something like:

Yakima Spare Tire Kit for EasyRider Trailer 8008125

which would spread the load... through-bolted through the plywood backer on the downward sloped rear panel, with a plywood gusset plate at each mounting point.  It might even be just as easy/better to make something similar to this which is a bit wider and longer if that would help.

With any encouragement at this forum, I'll send this on to NuCamp for their advice as well!!!

Michigan_Mike

Are you placing more weight on the tongue?  Generator, etc?  

YanniLazarus

Michigan_Mike said:

Are you placing more weight on the tongue?  Generator, etc?  

I've got two 6v agm golf cart batteries stacked in my tub (144 pounds! not a fantasy but a done deal), along with the stock 20 lb. propane tank.  Life will be perfect if I just relocate the spare tire off the tongue-- and best if I can locate it behind the trailer axle.  The issue is that my RAV4 has a max hitch load of 350 pounds and I'd like to be in the 250-275 pound range fully loaded.  I seem to be just ok now, but would be happier with a lighter tongue load.

Michigan_Mike

Just remember too that there are a lot of dynamics that take place with the trailer frame.  The frames do bend, twist and flex with road travel.  The individual that owned my former 2015 320 T@B did something similar to what you are attempting to do.  He was carrying a generator on the tongue, fuel cans, planking, etc.  and tried offsetting the tongue weight with cinder blocks behind the trailer axle.  He drove up to Alaska and ended up cracking the frame, which was later replaced with a new frame.  The trailer tongue weight listed and the warnings (via the stickers in place) are there for a reason.  

ScottG

Yeah, I think that would work. In fact, that's just about where nCamp used to attach the spare, but since owners were moving it to the tongue anyway, that is what they started doing on later models. :-)

Seriously, your proposal does put it a little further back than the original design, and I don't believe there is much substance or framing to that plastic tailpiece that would support the weight of a spare tire bouncing down the road.

Funny how the pendulum swings. A few years ago moving the tire to the tongue was probably the number one mod owners made. Now with bigger tubs and bigger batteries putting more and more load on the tongue (and taking up more space) we are seeing recent discussions about getting the spare returned to the back.

Tabaz

". . . and I don't believe there is much substance or framing to that plastic tailpiece that would support the weight of a spare tire bouncing down the road."

Agree with ScottG about the lack of a solid substructure aft of the main frame cross member.  Based on my experience working in that area, I recall there being nothing but wood and plastic in the location in your photo.

YanniLazarus

Tabaz said:

". . . and I don't believe there is much substance or framing to that plastic tailpiece that would support the weight of a spare tire bouncing down the road."

Agree with ScottG about the lack of a solid substructure aft of the main frame cross member.  Based on my experience working in that area, I recall there being nothing but wood and plastic in the location in your photo.

I agree... hoping it's ok to fasten through that plywood.   The mounting points on the Yakima look to be about 4 feet apart,  and I could thru- bolt with a gusset inside. Actually,  a lot more plywood here than in the roof! 

4ncar

Run it by nucamp...whats it gonna hurt?  I get the through bolting & the gusset plate, but its still a lot of force back there...especially as you get bouncing down the road.

AnOldUR

YanniLazarus said:I agree... hoping it's ok to fasten through that plywood.   The mounting points on the Yakima look to be about 4 feet apart,  and I could thru- bolt with a gusset inside. Actually,  a lot more plywood here than in the roof! 

The Yakima rack mounts to the aluminum cross struts and is attached close to the side walls where they are more rigid.

ScottG

YanniLazarus said:

Tabaz said:

". . . and I don't believe there is much substance or framing to that plastic tailpiece that would support the weight of a spare tire bouncing down the road."

Agree with ScottG about the lack of a solid substructure aft of the main frame cross member.  Based on my experience working in that area, I recall there being nothing but wood and plastic in the location in your photo.

I agree... hoping it's ok to fasten through that plywood.   The mounting points on the Yakima look to be about 4 feet apart,  and I could thru- bolt with a gusset inside. Actually,  a lot more plywood here than in the roof! 

Yes, I think if you get the mount far enough forward you can bolt into the plywood of the floor (if the 2020 has a plywood floor...). I believe that was how those early nuCamp mounts were attached. However, your fantasy image suggested you wanted to place the mount further toward the back..

I've inspected the tail from the inside and can confirm there is nothing but plastic and air underneath it. 

YanniLazarus

I hope I have at least entertained you... it actually looks like the bottom edge of the angled tire would have the same not very good road clearance the spare had in its original factory mounting... just not enough room to make it work.   so... abandoning the idea. 

Tabaz

Here's another option.  Just throwing it out there:

Dalehelman

4ncar said:

Run it by nucamp...whats it gonna hurt?  I get the through bolting & the gusset plate, but its still a lot of force back there...especially as you get bouncing down the road.

X2

Dalehelman

Tongue weight limits are what they are, limits. Many people are afraid to go to the limit. Engineers always built an extra degree of capacity to allow for human error or stupidity. Many times two or three times the posted limit. IMHO you should not fear taking full advantage of the limits the engineers build into there products. As long as your trailer is pulling without any sway or adverse handling characteristics.