I have replace my 15 amp fuse in slot F3 three times now and cannot figure out why it burns out. I am not hooked up to any shore power. I have tried all 15 amp devices (I can think of) and they all are working, radio, lights, fan [Alde, air conditioner(shore power)], TV, I cannot find anything that is not working. I have not tried the water pump as fresh water tank is dry. The T@B is not connected to the T/V.
Suggestions appreciated as I am electricity challenged.
2020 TAB 320 U
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Looking at the picture on page 16; tough to read but maybe the porch light?
Looks like the porch light, all inside lights, and the 12v and USB ports. Check the USB ports - known weak link, but not known to trip fuses.
@Sharon_is_SAM, @BrianZthank you for the clear picture of the labeling of the fuses. Porch light and all inside lights work and the 12 v plug is working. I am off to check the USB plugs.
I will keep you updated.
Thank again.
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Is there a specific action that causes F3 to blow . . . like plugging something in to the USB port?
And 'everything' else works . . before a specific action blows F3 or everything else works when F3 blown LED is on?
Is F3 really blown; can you see broken wire or have ohm meter confirmed it is open?
In general NüCamp has not changed the DCV Fuse number to function wiring in many years. Good chance the your 2020 is nearly identical to this 2019 wiring:
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#1 is 7.5 amp, #2 and #3 are 15 amp, #4 is 20 amp, #5 is 7.5 amp and #6 is 30 amp.
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For now I guess you just continue on and see what happens.
If you have an afternoon to spare, you might consider trying to confirm which 12VDC Fuses control what.
Remove all fuses Except F6 and F7 . . . confirm everything won't 'power-on'
Install F1 . . . again try every switch, what did turn-on
continue with F2**, etc (it is helpful to remove F1 when testing F2, etc only one fuse in per test)
(use battery cut-off switch for this)
The USB ports are very poor. They fail frequently.
So your having possible issues with them is not surprising
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To add to this discussion, I have learned over time that the nuCamp 12V fuse label at the converter panel is, at times, either non-existent or inaccurate (which is what I discovered on my label.) nuCamp seems to change the circuits with different year models.
For example, on my 2019 320 S, F3 is 15A and protects the USB and 12V sockets; F4 is 20A and protects the ceiling and porch lights and the refrigerator. The only way to figure out what fuse protects a particular circuit is to go through the troubleshooting process described above and prepare a new label for your converter. It will be time well spent for you to do that, because it will come in handy for quickly diagnosing future electrical issues.
Regardless, since you stated that the two rear USB ports are not working after the F3 blew, I'm guessing that is where the issue is. The USB port(s) may be shorting out, or need to be replaced.
(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)
Fuse 1 (7.5 amp): lights(rear reading, kitchen, porch, ceiling), ALDE
Fuse 2 (15 amp): TV, radio, USB in radio
Fuse 3 ( 15 amp): rear USB
Fuse 4 ( 20 amp): fridge
Fuse 5 ( 7.5 amp) water pump, ceiling fan, CO2 detector
The rear 12 VDC works with each fuse.
One last thing, I discovered the red blown fuse light does not work on the circuit board for F 4, is this of any concern other than I do not have a visual for a blown fuse.
Cheers
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I doubt the dysfunctional indicator light in F4 will cause you any problems. I find it's usually the dysfunctional devices that tip me off when a fuse has blown. :-)
Am not sure what your "rear 12 VDC works with each fuse" means.
Assuming the 12VDC (lighter style plug) and the USB are in the same housing they should be on the same Power Center Fuse. The 12VDC outlets should only function on one fuse, F3.
If the 12VDC function when any fuse F1 - F5 is installed then something seems wrong.
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Adventures: 54 Nights: 341 Towing Miles 43,780
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Are you saying that if you remove all the fuses 1-5, the 12VDC "lighter style" plugs DO NOT work. However, if you replace any single fuse 1-5 those plugs DO work?
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"One last thing, I discovered the red blown fuse light does not work on the circuit board for F4, is this of any concern other than I do not have a visual for a blown fuse."
Back in 2019, I had a similar issue and was confused as to why that was happening. @BrianZ set me straight on it by providing the following explanation (I underlined and bolded the most important part of his information):
"Try turning on an appliance on that circuit before pulling the fuse & see if it comes on. My kill switch on the Alde causes the same behavior when I pull the fuse. The fuse panel red LED needs current flowing through the circuit to light up, so if everything on the circuit is turned off, it won't light."
I keep forgetting to go back and try that out, but it makes sense. However, to see what is happening, go to the below WFCO link and watch the short video for the question, “Why is there voltage on both sides of the 12V fuse board?”
https://wfcoelectronics.com/product-support-videos/
As best I can recall, it was also my F4 LED that was not lighting up. Therefore, since your F4 is for the refrigerator circuit (same as mine), turn the refrigerator "ON" (i.e., 12V/battery power) and then pull out the F4 fuse. The red LED should illuminate when you do that. I recommend that you turn the refrigerator "OFF" before replacing the fuse, just to avoid the possibility of that act alone blowing the 20A fuse. Better yet, follow @MuttonChops suggestion and cut the 12V power to the entire trailer by turning off the battery cut-off switch before replacing any fuse - - - better safe than sorry.
Simply stated, as long as the refrigerator is turned "off," there is no voltage available to light up the red LED, which makes it appear that the red LED is not functioning. By turning the refrigerator "ON", the circuit is completed, thus providing the power/voltage necessary to illuminate the LED when the fuse is either manually removed, or blows. Pretty simple, yet tricky at the same time.
Finally, for a basic understanding of why a fuse may blow, while you are on the WFCO site you should also take a look at the short video for the question, “Why do fuses keep blowing on my 12V fuse board?”
Hope this helps. Please let us know how the F4 "test" described above works out. Thanks for the post. It has been interesting reading and will be helpful for others in the future.
(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)
Thanks @BrianZ for your explanation back in 2019.
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(Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)
Just before falling asleep last night the (mental) light turned-on.
Thanks to @Bayliss for reminding us about the Bad Fuse LED Operation.
@Freespirit is "seeing" an indication of the 12VDC Outlet being on but there is no usable current.
TV: '17 Colorado V6 Z71 4x4, Tow Package, GM Brake Controller
Adventures: 54 Nights: 341 Towing Miles 43,780
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