Trailer brake controller location/appearance?

mmcneil72

Tow vehicle's OEM factory brake controller not seeing the trailer brakes on our just purchased 2016 T@B 320 CS-S.  Had the dealer check the tow vehicle, they say no problem.  Where can I find the T@B's brake controller so I can take readings with a multi-meter to chase this gremlin down?

NorthIsUp

The T@B doesn't have a brake controller, but uses the OEM one to control its electric brakes. Check each pin on the tow vehicle's 7-pin connector with your multimeter.  You're specifically interested in the blue pins below on both the tow vehicle's and trailer's side.  Personally, I clean the 7-pin connectors by scraping each pin with a small flathead screwdriver to remove the oxidation.

Also, make sure that the vehicles brake controller is adjusted to apply more stopping force than it currently is doing. Maybe it's working, but just not applying enough pressure to the trailer brakes.

For the record, do you see the trailer lights coming on when you apply the brakes and do the turn signals work? Of course' those are different pin combinations that don't affect the operation of the brakes, but it does tell you that something is working, although maybe not the brakes yet. 
 

Denny16

The TaB trailer brakes are wired directly to the 7-pin.  A trailer mounted brake controller is used when thenTV does not have its own brake controller,  like Taxia uses in their RV trailers like the Cricket or Mantis.

If your TV has a brake controller, and it is not seeing or detecting it, there may be an issue with then7-pin as mentioned above, or you have the trailer’s battery cutoff switch turned off, the emergency break-a-way switch brake switch will not power yhe brakes in an emergency.  ThenTV brake controller should work with the battery switch on or off.

cheers

ScottG

When the trailer is plugged into a functioning tow vehicle connection, power to the breaks passes directly through the main junction box near the front of the trailer. The battery is bypassed, so the position of the battery cutoff should have no effect on the normal functioning of the brakes.*

Some methodical sleuthing will be required to figure out exactly where the connection is broken. 

(*However, the battery should still be ON when towing. In the event of a full trailer separation, the battery is what powers the emergency breakaway brakes!) 

Tampakayaker

You could verify that the trailer brakes work, by turning on the battery switch and pulling out the breakaway pin.  Then try to move the T@B.

That won't tell you about the connection to the TV, but will let you know if they engage at all.

tabiphile

One of the basic tools that anyone who tows should have is a simple 7 pin connector tester. You can pick one up for under fifteen dollars at any trailer shop, automotive shop, Walmart, Lowes etc. It eliminates a tremendous amount of guesswork and requires no electrical troubleshooting skills or knowledge to use.

TomCanada

Silly thing but make sure your trunk lid is closed - if it's open your car may not send a signal over the 7-pin connector.  I was freaked out during my dealer pickup that nothing was working until I realized the car disconnects the main tailgate lights when the trunk is open  

Denny16

Good point Tom.  Thanks Scott, I corrected by post.
cheers

jcrystal

tabiphile said:

One of the basic tools that anyone who tows should have is a simple 7 pin connector tester. You can pick one up for under fifteen dollars at any trailer shop, automotive shop, Walmart, Lowes etc. It eliminates a tremendous amount of guesswork and requires no electrical troubleshooting skills or knowledge to use.

What does it measure? Can a multimeter do the same?

Sharon_is_SAM

This is an easy way to assess power from the tow vehicle.  Available from Amazon.  Just search Amazon for “7 pin tester”.

mmcneil72

Hi all - thanks for all the great suggestions.  Here's an update:

1) Bought a Curt &-Way RV Blade Tester 58271.  It showed all trailer lights working BUT show brakes not getting a signal from the TV.

2) Took TV to dealer (2018 RAM 1500 w/OEM brake controller, Class IV hitch and 4 pin/7 pin electrical connectors, still under warranty).

3) RAM dealer says they found no problem... which I have some doubts about.  They poo-pooed the Curt tester results from the git go.  I may try another dealership elsewhere.

4) Nearest RV service is 35 miles away and pricey, but 40 foot long fifth wheels and similar are common in this part of rural Nebraska so service may be cheaper for a T@B.

My plan is to use a multi-meter to check the trailer's electrical connections and go from there.  Long stretch of cold rainy weather here has kept me from this so far.  Will go back over the many suggestions and report back early next week!

4ncar

@mmcneil72: Your last remark regarding the multi meter is sound, and once you confirm the 7 pin tester as factual, force the issue with your dealer.  Thats ridiculous that they turn their noses!😤

Horigan

I'm not sure you would get a good brake signal with a multi-meter without any deceleration being imposed on the brake controller.  Some controllers have a lever on the side that you point down so the controller has a zero reference for deceleration.  If you had that you could point that lever forward a bit, temporarily, to make the controller think it's decelerating when you depress the brake pedal.

Denny16

There should also be lever or button to on your brake controller to manually activate the trailer brakes.  You could use this to test the brakes.
cheers

Horigan

Doh!  ( 8(|)   Of course!

mjwaldner

Just a comment on the 7pin tester. Depending on the brake controller, that 7pin LED tester would not create enough of a load to tell the brake controller that it has a trailer connected. The manufacturer of the brake controller I have (Redarc Tow-Pro) instructed me to use a 5w bulb style test probe to test the electronic brake pins and that worked. This would be the same problem if testing with a multimeter. 
You might be able to take the 7pin tester apart and add a resistor from the ground pin to the electronic brake pin. This would add enough load. You would need to do the math on what resistor and wattage it needs to be. 

Tabulating

You could test your tester by hooking it up to a TV with a known good brake controller.  

If you know you have a good tester, then you could go to the dealer and see if your tester works with one of their known good TVs.  It would be hard for them to poo-poo your tester at that point.

You could also ask someone with a known good brake controller to hook up to your Tab and see if the Tab brakes make noise when the brakes are applied.  You can hear them if you are close to them.