De-wintering and shower drain is backing up. What to do.

andyboy

I was just opening the faucets for the bleach to run though the system and I noticed water and antifreeze backing up in the shower floor 0f 2021 320 S Boondock

What can I do to get it to drain?

The gray water tank gauge showed  only 3/4 full. I mopped out the water/antifreeze/bleach cocktail.

Hesitant to turn water back on.

Sharon_is_SAM

It’s usually better to dewinterize/sanitize where you have a hookup including sewer because it takes so much water to flush.  You need to drain your gray tank.  If you don’t have a portable tank, you can drain it via a bucket - then ideally discard down your sanitary sewer.  

BTW - not unusual for the gray tank to overflow into the shower pan at about 75-80%.  Also, the fresh water tank will start sucking air at about 18-25%.

ScottG

For those of us who don't have electronic tank monitors, gray water backing up into the shower is the only way we know it's time to dump!  ;-)

andyboy

Sharon_is_SAM said:

It’s usually better to dewinterize/sanitize where you have a hookup including sewer because it takes so much water to flush.  You need to drain your gray tank.  If you don’t have a portable tank, you can drain it via a bucket - then ideally discard down your sanitary sewer.  

BTW - not unusual for the gray tank to overflow into the shower pan at about 75-80%.  Also, the fresh water tank will start sucking air at about 18-25%.

Thanks @Sharon_is_SAM! You have all the answers! I have been emptying the gray tank bucket by bucket. I"m off to a campground tomorrow to repeat the sanitizing process. By the way, I followed your de-winterizing instructions every step of the way. Thanks for that too! So easy. Minus the flood.

Sharon_is_SAM

@andyboy Next time, start with an empty gray tank😂 

andyboy

@Sharon_is_SAM it started out that way. Just got it out of storage. Once of all the pink was gone I thought I had all the antifreeze out but the foam kept coming. Obviously ran too much water. Lessons learned.

Sharon_is_SAM

@andyboy - sounds like the antifreeze was through out the plumbing.  You did not use too much water, just use as much as it takes to clear the AF.  Will you try the blow out technique next time!

andyboy

@Sharon_is_SAM ...Oh? As opposed to antifreeze?
Yes. Absolutely.
i did and then did the antifreeze too.
Not next year. It was my first time. 

It is better isn’t it?

Sharon_is_SAM

I will say that the spring de-winterization is much easier when you just blow out and use targeted AF to winterize.  But, I think using the full system AF is very easy when you winterize!  The owner’s manual specifically says to drain, then blow out, then use AF.  I think that is odd that they want you to blow it out and add AF.  All that AF should be enough!  They also have a disclaimer for just using the blow out technique.  I suspect the Nautilus manifold system may collect water if you don’t do a careful blow out.  Careful is key.

tabiphile

Unless you have a proper compressor with a drier, compressed air may contain a significant amount of moisture. The amount is temperature and humidity dependent. Antifreeze insures 100% protection of the plumbing.

Denny16

This warning tag is a precaution statement from nüCamp, not a hard and fast never just blow about the lines only to Winterize, to a recommendation to use both procedures for maximum protection.  This is all going to depend on how severe your winters are, and the level of protection you want.

Plumbing only freezes and cracks or damages the water lines and pipes, when they are full of water, and the expansion due to freezing has no where to go.  A pipe with minor traces of water, and lots of air in it, that has been vented by leaving the tap open, will not cause damage due to freezing as the little water left is not trapped, and has room to expand in the pipe.  Our house in Minnesota had outside taps, that in the winter had to be isolated with cutoff valves in side the basement, then the outside tap was opened (and left open) and gravity drained.  This prevented these exposed pipes and taps from freezing.  

I follow the same practice with our exposed standing garden water taps and riser  pipes when we have a freeze.  The stand pipes are all plastic water lines, and I have not had one freeze damaged after just being isolated and drained, tap left open.  

I do the same with our TaB in the winter, I just drain the tanks and water lines, blowing out with compressed air, insures the valves are cleared and no trapped pockets of water remain that could cause damage.  RV antifreeze in the traps and outside tank drain gate valve, and Bob’s your uncle... 

cheers

tabiphile

Plumbing and fixtures used in homes are very different than the kit that is used in RV's. Home plumbing fixtures, faucets and valves are brass or bronze. There are drains and shutoffs for outside lines that are used for home winterizing. They are all very freeze tolerant.
RV faucets and valves (think shower, toilets etc.) are plastic that will shatter if even a few drops of water are left in a low spot, even with the faucets left wide open. Hopefully you never experience this. Replacement components are not readily available. Standing water is not necessary for winter damage to occur. Less than a teaspoon is all it takes.

Sharon_is_SAM

@tabiphile - there are an awful lot of owners who have successfully used the blow out technique without any issues.  Now granted, if you aren’t thorough, and water is left to accumulate (toilet valve and outside shower), then you can have a problem.  My understanding is that pex is more tolerant even if a little water remains in the line.  

Denny16

Sharon, you are quite correct.  While some plastics become brittle at freezing temps, the fixtures used by nüCamp are similar to those used in boats, and are quite durable.  Yes water left trapped in a valve, can freeze, expand and cause damage to the valve.  But opening up all the valves and blowing the water out, should do the job for most winter situations.   The fixtures are higher end RV/Marine fixtures, not the cheap stuff used by a lot of RV manufacturers.  

The water pipes and PEX tubing runs in a TaB will not be damaged by traces of water left in them freezing.  These are the same pipe and water line materials used in houses.  The white sift water filler and pump connection lines are marine grade materials used in boats. The galley faucet in a TaB400 is a Dometic fixture, and sells for around $150, not exactly inexpensive.

Cheers

andyboy

So @Sharon_is_SAM, I repeated the process today. No problems. No shower backup. All evidence of antifreeze seemed absent. However, when running the  bleach solution—mixed as per instructions—through the faucets, I never detected a bleach odor. There was a faint odor but not bleachy, and a bit of foaming,  same as yesterday. 

Is this normal? 

Denny16

How long did you let the leach solution stand in the water tank?
cheers

andyboy

@Denny16, about two and a
half hours.

Sharon_is_SAM

@andyboy - if you used about 1/4 C per 10-15 gallons of water you are fine.  It does not need to reek of bleach to be effective.  You are sanitizing, not sterilizing😊.   Foaming sounds like residual AF.  All you need to do is rinse it through again.  Sorry.

andyboy

Thank you @Sharon_is_SAM!!!
My friends have a saying for me: “Paranoia self-destroya.” I dwell on things....too much.
But thank you.
Like I’m going  to drink the water snyway.
All is good. Thank you!
Until  the next time....