portable generator

javaborgia

Waiting for delivery of our TAB 320 CS-S Boondock, no experience RVing, but extensive experience camping. Wondering what type of portable generator to buy? Can I charge the battery? Can I run some of the accessories (tv, microwave, etc.) using a generator? Etc.? Would appreciate any input. Thanks.

pthomas745

Welcome to the Forums!  Many many many generator threads to help figure this out.  Remember: the generator may do everything you want...but the campground may have some major limitations on when and where they can be used. The search window on the Forums works well, this is a google search of the Forums for "generator".

https://www.google.com/search?q=generator+site:tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com&client=firefox-b-1-d&sxsrf=AOaemvIEeeYZPP8DaUDGuATkpBhq4MdXLw:1636820219931&ei=--SPYaelONPY-gTmya4o&oq=generator+site:tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com&gs_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EAM6BwgAEEcQsANKBAhBGABQ6QhY9ihgujFoAXACeACAAUqIAeoMkgECMjSYAQCgAQHIAQTAAQE&sclient=gws-wiz&ved=0ahUKEwjnjpS-3pX0AhVTrJ4KHeakCwUQ4dUDCA0&uact=5

Denny16

Before going out and buying a lot of accessories, you might want to wait until you have the camper and try it out first, to see what you really need.  A lot of new owners end up,not,using all the stuff they pre-purchased before getting their trailer.
cheers

CrabTab

A 2000W generator will power the AC, microwave or 120V outlets in a 320 @javaborgia, should you decide to go that route. We don't have a microwave in our T@B , but that is the size generator we have to use with the trailer. All the other electrical will run on 12V (battery) power. The battery can be recharged with the generator too.

Edit: Forgot to mention when I first responded... Welcome to the forum!

VictoriaP

Depends on the generator you buy AND on how/where you camp. To run appliances, you’ll want at least a 2000 watt generator. But where and how you camp will determine whether and when you can use a generator at all. Limits of time of day for use, decibel levels, and even how long you can run a generator are not unusual in many places due to the noise, and out West, it’s become increasingly common to see generator bans during heat waves due to the increased fire risk. So you’ll want to do your research before spending a chunk of change on a generator you may not be able to use the way you intend.

You’ll also need to figure out the best fuel source for your requirements, because of course, you’ll need to bring along fuel. I carry a little 900 watt generator that runs off either 1 lb propane cans or using an adapter hose, can be run from a 20lb propane tank. It’s plenty capable of recharging the trailer, but won’t run appliances…and that’s fine, it’s for emergency use only.

AnOldUR

I agree with Denny. Until you have some experience, buying in anticipation is not recommended.

-edited for pc-

SusanD

If you do plan on boondocking, even for a few days, I think a generator is a must unless you happen to live in a very sunny place and don't use any electronics.  If not, a generator is indispensible.  I think the question is, what do you want to use it for? I have a Jackery 1000 for my cell phone and computer.  It's great for the kettle, but that draws a lot of power.  I'm sure it's the same with the microwave.  Best purchase I've made but I should never have bought the solar panel.  I never have enough sunlight. Fortunately, with judicious use, it can last a week and then I can charge it in my car or plug in somewhere.

Maxcamp8

Watch out on the wattage ratings which can be misleading regarding normal load and peak/starting load.
We found our 2300 watt genset (1800 watt running 2300 watt peak) could not run the 2000 watt Alde heat element, but was fine for A/C and all else.  We could run the Alde 1000 watt heat element and anything else, but it was not adequate for cold nights 30's and 40's. 

We are looking at a 3000 watt nominal genset.  (inverters are quieter, Honda seems best rated) however want to TEST one before buying.  There are some gensets rated 2600 watt but I'd be leery of capacity until tested. 

Our genset is ratchet strapped to the aluminum front rack on 320S, cable locked, and has a good rain cover with two bungies as well.  Got about 2.5 hours per 1.3 gallon tank with heat on full.

Gas here is all 10% ethanol containing but out West we heard from RV's to never use it and only buy straight gas which was new to us.   

dragonsdofly

@Maxcamp8, why would you run the alde on electric while not hooked up to shore power? Do you have some specific need to operate the alde on electric without shore power? The alde will provide as much as twice the btu heat rating while on propane. It is built for that function. I do understand that in some specific areas of the country, a generator may be necessary for A/C in excessive heat while boondocking, but you are the first person who has ever asked this question that I can recall. I'm just asking for some clarification, as this is truly a new area of discussion.

Viajero

VictoriaP said:

Depends on the generator you buy AND on how/where you camp. To run appliances, you’ll want at least a 2000 watt generator. But where and how you camp will determine whether and when you can use a generator at all. Limits of time of day for use, decibel levels, and even how long you can run a generator are not unusual in many places due to the noise, and out West, it’s become increasingly common to see generator bans during heat waves due to the increased fire risk. So you’ll want to do your research before spending a chunk of change on a generator you may not be able to use the way you intend.

You’ll also need to figure out the best fuel source for your requirements, because of course, you’ll need to bring along fuel. I carry a little 900 watt generator that runs off either 1 lb propane cans or using an adapter hose, can be run from a 20lb propane tank. It’s plenty capable of recharging the trailer, but won’t run appliances…and that’s fine, it’s for emergency use only.

Those little guys are hard to find. Is it the Ryobi?  Where did you find it. 

VictoriaP

Viajero said:

VictoriaP said:

Depends on the generator you buy AND on how/where you camp. To run appliances, you’ll want at least a 2000 watt generator. But where and how you camp will determine whether and when you can use a generator at all. Limits of time of day for use, decibel levels, and even how long you can run a generator are not unusual in many places due to the noise, and out West, it’s become increasingly common to see generator bans during heat waves due to the increased fire risk. So you’ll want to do your research before spending a chunk of change on a generator you may not be able to use the way you intend.

You’ll also need to figure out the best fuel source for your requirements, because of course, you’ll need to bring along fuel. I carry a little 900 watt generator that runs off either 1 lb propane cans or using an adapter hose, can be run from a 20lb propane tank. It’s plenty capable of recharging the trailer, but won’t run appliances…and that’s fine, it’s for emergency use only.

Those little guys are hard to find. Is it the Ryobi?  Where did you find it. 

Yes, I have the Ryobi version, but it has been discontinued. A clone of it, the Baja, is still available at Home Depot.

Viajero

Thank you

GatorEgg

I don’t have a generator yet.  Or should say anymore.  I used one on our sailboat for years.  A Honda 2000, now upped to a 2200.  When I get another in the spring for our off grid trips it’ll be a Honda 2200.  It’s the number one rated one on the market for many reasons.  Also most expensive.  I didn’t scrimp on buying a NuCamp trailer, why start with the generator.

Viajero

GatorEgg said:

I don’t have a generator yet.  Or should say anymore.  I used one on our sailboat for years.  A Honda 2000, now upped to a 2200.  When I get another in the spring for our off grid trips it’ll be a Honda 2200.  It’s the number one rated one on the market for many reasons.  Also most expensive.  I didn’t scrimp on buying a NuCamp trailer, why start with the generator.

I’d buy a Honda but they don’t have propane models. 

N7SHG_Ham

@Viajero you can buy a new one converted from https://www.genconnexdirect.net/

Very nice conversion, but not inexpensive.

Viajero

Thanks. 

AnOldUR

VictoriaP said:

Yes, I have the Ryobi version, but it has been discontinued. A clone of it, the Baja, is still available at Home Depot.

We've been trying to avoid buying a generator, but this little Ryobi/Baja 900 looks like it might be a way to top off batteries when conditions don't allow solar to get the job done. How has it worked for you? Any regrets? Home Depot has the Baja for $279.

VictoriaP

AnOldUR said:

VictoriaP said:

Yes, I have the Ryobi version, but it has been discontinued. A clone of it, the Baja, is still available at Home Depot.

We've been trying to avoid buying a generator, but this little Ryobi/Baja 900 looks like it might be a way to top off batteries when conditions don't allow solar to get the job done. How has it worked for you? Any regrets? Home Depot has the Baja for $279.

No regrets as an emergency recharging device, which is all I use it for. For anyone looking for a way to power things around the house or campsite, though, I never use it that way…easier and quieter to grab a battery powered setup, such as the Goal Zero Yeti, EcoFlow, Jackery, etc. The Ryobi is a few decibels louder than your typical ultra quiet Honda, and I hate generator noise, so it’s definitely not something I’d want running regularly.

Given that I don’t need a unit with more power and don’t want to carry gasoline, it’s a good fit for my needs. (Edit to add: Tab 320 with a single 105 ah AGM currently)

AnOldUR

Found this used Ryobi 900 for $65.99, but not sure about the seller. Couldn't find any negative reviews, but ..... scam?

edit to add:
Too good to be true! Sorry for the misleading post.

Dutch061

One other thing to be considered as you look into generators specifically when it comes to charging the batteries. Most every RV (this is NOT a NuCamp only issue) is not designed to be able to utilize the OEM installed WFCO Converter (most commonly used power center) properly due to one of 2 things or a combination of both.

1. Distance from converter to battery bank
2. Gauge of wiring used to make the connection

What this does is cause the voltage to go up immediately due to high resistance which causes the converter  to bypass the "Bulk Charging Rate" and go instead to the "Absorption Charging Rate"' because it falsely judges the state of charge of the batteries. 

So now you are asking so what does this have to do with the size of generator that I need? The answer comes back to how long do you wish to run the generator, at least one of the replies mentioned "they dislike generator noise".

If you correct the converter issue by either installing heavier gauge wiring or using a different converter that can be installed closer to the battery bank, you will be able to use the Bulk Charging Rate and run the generator for a fraction of the time.

Example, on our 2020 400 BDL the WFCO converter would take 24 to 36 hours to charge the OEM installed 224 Ah AGM batteries. By putting a PD9260CV within inches of the batteries, I was able to reduce that charge time to under 3 hours.

So, why is this important? 

If in the future you decide to fix the battery charging issue that you will have, the amps required to run the converter will go up proportionally. In my case, the converter takes close to 13 Amps (1560 Watts) alone without anything else turned on.

I too dislike hearing generators run for hours each day because people don't address the poor charging rate issues. 

Note: I failed to mention that if you camp in places with electricity available to you, none of what I typed matters at all. 

Brad

dlb

It is easy to convert a Honda 2200 to propane. I did it.

https://www.amazon.com/Hutch-Mountain-Honda-EU2000i-Propane/dp/B06WV966YH/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=QRJ0ZDOW8NE8&keywords=propane+conversion+for+honda+generator&qid=1638145524&sprefix=Propane+conversion+for+%2Caps%2C163&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExQUc4Ujk1T045NEM3JmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwMDUyMDE3MUJSWElIMEgxMFBGRiZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNDQzMjc0MTA2V0VGTVpLRE1MSSZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

Mickerly

NuCamp build a nice trailer that works well for most situations. I agree with Denny16. Go camping a couple of times. See how you are going to use the trailer. Figure out what you really need before you buy anything. The solar on your new trailer may be all you need.

Denny16

Quite! 
cheers

DougWW

VictoriaP said:

Depends on the generator you buy AND on how/where you camp. To run appliances, you’ll want at least a 2000 watt generator. But where and how you camp will determine whether and when you can use a generator at all. Limits of time of day for use, decibel levels, and even how long you can run a generator are not unusual in many places due to the noise, and out West, it’s become increasingly common to see generator bans during heat waves due to the increased fire risk. So you’ll want to do your research before spending a chunk of change on a generator you may not be able to use the way you intend.

You’ll also need to figure out the best fuel source for your requirements, because of course, you’ll need to bring along fuel. I carry a little 900 watt generator that runs off either 1 lb propane cans or using an adapter hose, can be run from a 20lb propane tank. It’s plenty capable of recharging the trailer, but won’t run appliances…and that’s fine, it’s for emergency use only.

Wow, you're little generator is intriguing! What brand is it?

and now the BIG question... if you have the stock 70 AH battery run down to 12v... how long do you run the generator to recharge?

Thanks.       ...Doug

Viajero

Dutch061 said:

One other thing to be considered as you look into generators specifically when it comes to charging the batteries. Most every RV (this is NOT a NuCamp only issue) is not designed to be able to utilize the OEM installed WFCO Converter (most commonly used power center) properly due to one of 2 things or a combination of both.

1. Distance from converter to battery bank
2. Gauge of wiring used to make the connection

What this does is cause the voltage to go up immediately due to high resistance which causes the converter  to bypass the "Bulk Charging Rate" and go instead to the "Absorption Charging Rate"' because it falsely judges the state of charge of the batteries. 

So now you are asking so what does this have to do with the size of generator that I need? The answer comes back to how long do you wish to run the generator, at least one of the replies mentioned "they dislike generator noise".

If you correct the converter issue by either installing heavier gauge wiring or using a different converter that can be installed closer to the battery bank, you will be able to use the Bulk Charging Rate and run the generator for a fraction of the time.

Example, on our 2020 400 BDL the WFCO converter would take 24 to 36 hours to charge the OEM installed 224 Ah AGM batteries. By putting a PD9260CV within inches of the batteries, I was able to reduce that charge time to under 3 hours.

So, why is this important? 

If in the future you decide to fix the battery charging issue that you will have, the amps required to run the converter will go up proportionally. In my case, the converter takes close to 13 Amps (1560 Watts) alone without anything else turned on.

I too dislike hearing generators run for hours each day because people don't address the poor charging rate issues. 

Note: I failed to mention that if you camp in places with electricity available to you, none of what I typed matters at all. 

Brad

Heads up, we don’t have our 400 yet. 

How far is the WFCO from the battery in the 2022 models?  

What gauge is the wire?  

Could one not just add an additional 8 gauge wire to resolve that problem?  

Good info by the way. Thanks. 

Maxcamp8

dragonsdofly wrote,  @Maxcamp8, why would you run the alde on electric while not hooked up to shore power? The alde will provide as much as twice the btu heat rating while on propane. 

1. twice the BTU's?  That's an eye opener.  Looking up the Alde manual, you are right!
Page 29 of the microscopic downloaded Nucamp manual references the Alde model 3020.**  Looking at the Alde PDF manuals:

11MBTU and 18.7MBTU on propane = 3.3 and 5.5kW versus the 1kw and 2kw options on Electric.
No wonder we were cold.  Been puzzled by all the posts about toasty campers in winter.

We had NO propane heat or gas stove above a few thousand feet for our entire 8-week inaugural trip out West in our used 2021 320S.  Calls to Nucamp elicited " sometimes this happens, we can't say why.  You are not warranteed as a used purchaser"... of a six week old camper!  So we only benefitted from the genset, were very cold (snow), and had to stay mostly at R/V parks which seem to always be right on the darned highway and horribly noisy.  

Clearly we need to go with the propane option.  The genset handily runs the A/C which is a medical necessity for us in warmer weather.

2. Dutch061 wrote about copper wire distance and [circular mils] between converter and batteries.
Installed two battleborn LiPo batteries for our trip, below driver-side bench and will be upgrading the controller (and therefore wiring connections) anyway which is in the opposite bench.  So we're looking at maybe ten foot conductor distance if rewired through the back bench, or 15 to 20 feet currently via the existing A frame mounted junction box.  
I expect our primary charge will be from a DC to DC converter on the truck, to the batteries.  Solar gain in N.E. is not a good bet.  Second charge source to be the genset in when A/C is needed off grid.

**{editorial- I am not at all pleased with NuCamp for their failure to warranty a near-new camper, document the basic build, model numbers, O&M, and parts of our $30K-plus machines.  No automaker could get away with this.  Despite my industrial contracting background in many trades, I do not appreciate the R&D project necessary to find out what I own and where it is on the fly while on the road.  Tinkering for optional user upgrades is another story.}

Dutch061

@Viajero, yes, it is possible that adding a second wire would take care of the resistance issue. But on our 2020 400 BDL, that would have been a major undertaking, it was much simpler to install a different converter near the batteries and remove the WFCO. In addition, by using the PD9260CV I can force the Boost Mode of charging (14.4 volts) which also is part of the fast-charging equation. 


@Maxcamp8, I installed the DC-to-DC Controller under the dinette bunk where the connections are made to the distribution center. Since my TV has the OEM towing package, it eliminates any modification to the vehicle and also puts the Controller closer to the battery. 


Brad

Mooree

I live in Houston and as hurricane season approaches I started researching emergency generators.  I discovered the Champion 3400 Dual Fuel Inverter Generator with Electric Start at half the price of a comparable Honda. Amazon delivered this bad boy in five days and it comes ready to rock and roll with minimal setup. You connect the (included) battery, add 20 ounces of oil for the initial five-hour break in and it's good to go. I found small 20-ounce bottles of 10-30 weight oil at Home Depot, eliminating leftovers or over- or under-filling the reservoir.

Phil0110

I can recommend Generac 7127 generator This thing is totally silent, so quiet we chained it to one of the blocks at our fireworks tent for we were afraid someone might steal it.

Anyway I got this to directly replace the noisy older GP 3300 and I have to say this is one of the best generators I have ever owned. As mentioned this thing is near silent, even under full load it's near silent. It provides roughly 3100 Watts continuously for our purposes.

Mooree

If you are finding the best generators, I think Champion, Wen, and Westinghouse are the best brand that you can buy. Their units are versatile and portable, perfect as backup power. These brands are leaning into inverter-type generators that produce lower carbon emissions and provide cleaner energy. 

GregChris

I have a Champion 2500. If I had done more research I would have gotten dual fuel. That being said, I have found dealing with gasoline to not be a big problem. I have a 1 gal can that last for 5 days or more at 2 hours per day run time. On the last day I let the gen run run dry, and put what ever gas is left in the can in the tv. I know a propane conversion as available for Honda, don't know if would work on a champion.