Blow-out method: how "thorough"?

jules2go

My first attempt(s) at doing the blow-out method this season left me wondering about this. I've read many threads about how to do this, so I felt pretty confident, but still I'm left with questions. So, I blew out the lines with a proper air compressor from Harbor Freight with pressure at about 40, but no matter what, I kept getting faint "spits" of water out of the sink faucet. None was coming from any of the other locations where water comes out, so I gave it up and went to bed. The next day I did it all over again out of worry, every faucet/valve, and again had spits and a few actual sprays coming from not only the kitchen sink, but also the shower. Slightly so from the hot/cold drains underneath going outside. Again I blew them all out until there was nothing, no drops/spits/sprays. Next day had scant spits from the kitchen sink, nothing else. So I'm wondering if this has happened to others, and if so, at what point do you feel satisfied that the job is complete? I can't see how I'll ever get every drop out. I live in western NC and we do get below freezing often. It does seem like we're getting cold weather awfully early this year, too, so I might go back to antifreeze. But I travel down to the coast so much that it's a real hassle to do antifreeze. Sorry for the long post, thanks in advance. 

Sharon_is_SAM

I would not expect the output to be dry air, rather still moist air.  Having said that, we do not go back the next day to check our work.  Keep in mind that even with a small amount of residual water, the ice that forms has plenty of room to expand into, preventing a burst of the Pex and a leak with the thaw.  I find that the toilet requires the most attention and probably is the riskiest for cracks due to ice because water can pool if you aren’t diligent in thoroughly blowing it out.  Be sure to empty the pump filter, too as that can collect water.

We make sure to initially drain the plumbing (low point drains) with the tongue up.  I think that helps expedite the process.

jules2go

@Sharon_is_SAM Thank you. That's all interesting and helpful. 

manyman297

First time winterizing this year for us and I kept hearing gurgling in the supply line after blowing out the faucets. I abandoned the blow out method and just ran anti freeze through the system. Way easier than I expected and since you bypass the fresh water tank I won’t be having to run a ton of water through the lines to flush the anti freeze come spring. We live in northern Utah so it gets cold here. 

Sharon_is_SAM

@manyman297 - that’s the beauty of the Nautilus system!  The pre-2021 models can also avoid AF in the fresh water tank by adding it at the pump.  

manyman297

Yeah, it's really not a big deal adding antifreeze. I was expecting a hassle but you literally just put a hose in the antifreeze and turn the pump on. Open faucets one-by-one. No worrying about freezing.

Criswell

When you blow out the system, is the pump also blown out?  If not, how?

Binghi

From what I can tell, blowing out the lines does not clear the pump. I believe that’s an argument for using antifreeze to winterize. When you do that, you fill the pump with antifreeze and you know it won’t crack in a deep freeze.

Sharon_is_SAM

@Criswell - just drain the pump by disconnecting the inlet and outlet hoses and empty the filter cup.  

ScottG

@Criswell, you can also run the pump dry to eject as much water as possible.

That said, since there is no good way to blow out the pump with compressed air, I also follow up by running a little antifreeze through it while it is disconnected. It's easy enough to do with a couple short lengths of tubing and connectors that fit the pump's inlet and outlet.

In the same discussion, if you scroll down to this comment you'll find directions for winterizing the pump. While it doesn't indicate the need to use antifreeze, I figure it doesn't hurt anything and provides an extra margin of safety. (Some owners also advocate running antifreeze through the toilet flush valve. Again, can't hurt, but I've never worried about this as compressed air seems to clean out this valve pretty well.) 

Other than this little extra step to flush the water pump with antifreeze, I've relied on the blowout-only method for seven seasons without incident.

pthomas745

Are the pumps in the newer 400's in a less vulnerable position?  Inside the trailer close to the Nautilus setup?

ScottG

pthomas745 said:

Are the pumps in the newer 400's in a less vulnerable position?  Inside the trailer close to the Nautilus setup?

Beats me, but if the trailer is being stored unused and unheated, then everything is vulnerable to freezing.

pthomas745

Good point.  Somewhere in a thread there was a discussion of using insulated "faucet covers" for things like the waste gate valves.  It appears they are reasonably effective for home faucets. But, I live where "freezing" doesn't happen, so my experience is limited.

  Anyone think these could be useful for those "marginal" times where you might need just a bit more protection short of a full on winterizing process?  (Just a sample....and a photo size test, too!)

https://www.amazon.com/s?k=faucet+covers+for+winter&rh=p_72:2661618011&dc&crid=2V23HDQCO1YU4&qid=1641140483&rnid=2661617011&sprefix=faucet+,aps,127&ref=sr_nr_p_72_1

Denny16

The newer TaB400’s water pump is under the rear bunk (where the Alde and Nautilus panel are located), next to the forward bulkhead on driver’s side.  Here the Alde will keep every located in this space from freezing if it is on.  In storage without heat, this area will get a few degrees warmer than outside temperatures and can freeze in weather below 30F.
cheers

[Deleted User]

Honestly, after 7 winterizations of T@bs, the blowout process takes twice the effort as the antifreeze process. I always do both but if I had to choose only one method for ease, putting in the antifreeze is the easiest.   Of course with just blow out you don't have to rid your water pipes of the AF when you need to use the water system. So if you will be winterizing and dewinterizing multiple times over winter then maybe the AF method would be more of a burden but if you are one and done for the season,  AF is easy peasy. Like I said though, I blow out and the run AF through the system. I often wonder if I really need to do the blow out part at all?  It seems just adding AF through the system is sufficient. 

CrabTab

My thought is pure antifreeze will provide more protection than a mix of water and AF @TabbyShack. Makes sense to me to blow out the water even with AF for wintering up north.
As our knowledge grows, we've tried all the methods you mentioned. This year we only blew out the supply lines and left them dry. We do live in a moderate climate though...

Horigan

@TabbyShack, I think if you run the system dry with the pump prior to introducing AF, you have little risk of diluting the AF too much.  If the AF comes out with a good stream from the faucets, showers, and toilet, then is should be of sufficient strength.

I personally find the blow method alone less effort the using AF, but I have an adapter to connect a compressor to the city water inlet.  Easy peasy for me.