Notcold 3 way now 2 way

db_cooper

Well it was nice while it lasted.  We boondock almost exclusively, and overall enjoyed using the refrigerator on propane.

I think the thermocouple needs replacing, but it's on the left of the fridge, and almost impossible to access.  I got the fridge mostly out before realizing it has to come completely out to get into the burner box.

Anyone else decide to not repair and get by with other options?  We have an efficient compressor fridge in the TV, and could use it more than we do now. Not as convenient since it's out in the TV, but could throw some drinks in the Notcold for the evening.

Hate to spend a bunch repairing, and it will work with hookups, so hate to permanently remove, though the storage would be nice.

Decisions-decisions... 

Denny16

The propane fridge is not even an efficient 2-way, takes too much current in 12VDC mode, and 120VAC is the only useable option, but hard to regulate its temp?  Several other TaBers with older taBs have replaced the propane fridge with a new compressor 2-way, and the current one being used by nüCamp fits with a small filler panel or room for a storage cubby on one side.  A compressor fridge is easy to regulate is temp, and works efficiently on 12VDC also.  

Cheers 

db_cooper

Yep, I could have said it's now a 1 way, our tow vehicle can't keep up with the battery draw, so we leave it off while traveling.  Maybe I won't miss it as much as I think.

My OCD likes everything to work as it should, so maybe this will be a good exercise in letting it go. 

Grumpy_G

I hear you on the OCD. My beater truck looks like hell, peeling paint and all but no warning lights, A/C and radio work  

Somewhere on here is a link to the service manual for the 3163 fridge which has a detailed troubleshooting flowchart. Use that to make sure it really is the thermocouple. Remove the cook top and all the tests should be easy to do. 

Getting the fridge out is not too bad after getting access from the top, everything but 120V can be disconnected right there. 

webers3

I replaced mine with a portable compressor fridge, you can have the old 3 way, if you are near Connecticut 

db_cooper

Sorta good news. Did the tests, and using a jumper on the interrupter leads got it running lickety split.  So that means new relighter board.  Lots of wires going to that thing, but should be fairly easy to replace. 

The Norcold Guy website says it's the most common part to fail on these fridges. Hope to get a few more years use out of it now. 

db_cooper

Just wanted to add, that the relighter board was the culprit, and the fridge lights easier than ever before.  Makes me think the old board had a weak component in it all along.  Kind of wonder if that's the cause of some people's issues getting the fridge to light on propane.  Ours would always light, but it often took quite a few attempts.   It was really hard to light the last time we used it,  I actually gave up and came back later and it started up so I forgot about it.  Apparently that part can go out slowly and not just quit.

druthazer

Anyone have specifics, model, price etc on replacement compressor fridge.??  And do you have any regrets? 
   I have been using a small 12v portable iceco cooler-freezer.  Keeping it on the stovetop takes up valuable space and the 3 way is really only of value on propane and since I cant keep it cold while driving, it is a waste of space.   My 2 100w solar panels and 2 sla batteries usually keep up with the cooler-fteezer running all the time.  

db_cooper

@druthazer
Had I not been able to fix the 3-way this time we were going to use it as a cooler with frozen bottles for drinks and things that would still be safe if not kept cold enough.  We have a 50 qt compressor cooler in the car with an extension cord to the trailer batteries we would have relied on. Would not be as convenient as the fridge in the camper, but would suffice.  If I ever  pull out the Norcold, it will probably become storage space.

GatorEgg

You don’t have to pull the refrigerator out to get to its “workings”.  Just remove the screw caps on the stove cooktop, turn them a half a turn, cut the caulk under it, lift stove enough to support on a 2x4.
Refrig workings are right there.

Sharon_is_SAM

@druthazer - https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/11273/replacing-norcold-3-way-fridge-with-isotherm-2-way/p1

See webers3 Jan. 4 post here:  https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/comment/179460#Comment_179460

AnOldUR

db_cooper said:

If I ever  pull out the Norcold, it will probably become storage space.

A storage space for your 12V compressor chest cooler is an option that works well.

RollinWithShirley

db_cooper said:

Sorta good news. Did the tests, and using a jumper on the interrupter leads got it running lickety split.  So that means new relighter board.  Lots of wires going to that thing, but should be fairly easy to replace. 

The Norcold Guy website says it's the most common part to fail on these fridges. Hope to get a few more years use out of it now. 

I have figured out how to get the Norcold out in my T@B Outback after a series of attempts, but replacement of the thermal coupler didn't fix it.   I am pretty ready to give up on it at this point.....but can someone point me to instructions for the tests mentioned above and replacement of relighter board?

MuttonChops

RollinWithShirley said:

. . . someone point me to instructions for the tests mentioned above and replacement of relighter board?

The first post in the Reference Documents Section of this forum has a 3136 Service Manual which contains basic troubleshooting information. Flowchart is on Page-14, other pages have wiring diagrams/etc.

3126 Service Manual Here

Quick overview:

pthomas745

In the troubleshooting pages, they mentioned the "flame interrupter".  That little copper fitting that the end of the thermocouple attaches to on the front of the fridge .  Did you replace this little part, too?

https://www.amazon.com/621737-Thermocouple-Interrupter-Replacement-Refrigerator/dp/B0BK4VLCT7