Question -
Our 2022 320 was delivered without a screen door (like many others this year).
The part is in. Rather than drag the trailer to the dealer and wait for a service appointment for them to do it, just wondering how hard it is to install myself if just simply pick up the part from them?
There is what looks like double sided sticky tape around the frame ready to go.
Anyone done this (or taken theirs off and put back on?)
Thanks!
Here's a pic of what my frame looks like right now.
Comments
https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/14800/door-mod-and-screen-repair#latest
2020 nuCamp T@B 320S * Jeep Wrangler
They gave me 4 screws and the corner covers to assemble.
Looks like now, you adhere with the double stick tape on the sides (already on my camper shown above). Then 2 wood screws in the top corners. Then two screws into the floor piece as mentioned above. The string is now safely tucked away in a channel, so can't pinch it.
I am one of the 2022 320 CS-S owners who just received their screen door. I'd like to share more about this door, and how to install it properly. There are issues with the state of the wood framing on the camper, the screen door itself, the provided installation hardware, and instructions from NuCamp. I will try to share lots of photos here and as much information as possible. Perhaps folks can share ideas about how to install this "the right way."
First, the screen door.
Front
Back
Front top close-up
Front bottom close-up
Rear top close-up
Rear bottom close-up
Unlike @edwinh above, my door has a bunch of loose string. In addition, the string at the bottom is exposed. Is this right? Should the bottom string be channeled in the bottom metal rail somehow? Mine is not. It appears I can tuck the extra string into the cavity of the side rail. And adjust it a little, too.
Top guide string. (Too loose?)
Bottom guide string. Sits outside of the bottom rail. Wrong?
The screen door also has four pairs of pre-drilled holes for securely fastening the sides. But the side covers will need to be removed in order to use them. The instructions do not refer to these holes, nor are screws provided.
See the screw holes on the rear?
There are also holes in the top two corners, and two beveled holes in the bottom metal rail. The instructions do refer to these holes, and four screws are provided.
I am skeptical about whether this door will not stay very well mounted with smooth opening and closing with just the four provided screws.
Perhaps one screw in each upper corner, the two screws at the bottom, and the side adhesive tape are really enough? But then, there are problems with the frame and adhesive tape.
My door frame is a bit rough. Almost all of the screws are not straight nor flush, and the wood has some splintering in multiple locations. While this will be covered up, I am concerned about the "flatness" of the surface, especially where the adhesive tape is - there are many, many protrusions along this adhesive tape that I am certain will prevent the door from adhering well.
Do I really need to re-screw these straight and/or flush? Do I really need to cut away or sand the splintering? Will I need to remove the adhesive tape to re-seat the screws underneath, and then re-apply new adhesive tape? It seems so. 😭
There are no pre-drilled holes in the bottom metal bracket of the door frame. The provided bottom screws do not appear to be self-tapping to me. Do I really need to drill into the metal bracket? Is there anything under there (wiring, tubing, leprechauns) that I need to be aware of?
Lastly, the sparse instructions.
While the document is titled "Tab 400" it is the same door, and I assume (?) I have been given the right installation instructions.
Reality doesn't seem to fit the simple elegance of the instructions.
Sooo..... here is what I am thinking:
- Prep the screen door. Ensure the string is in the right place and set properly. Remove the plastic side rail covers to expose the screw holes. (?)
- Prep the door frame. Remove the adhesive tape. Ensure a fairly smooth, flat mounting surface by re-seating any offending screws. Hammer, scrape, remove and sand any splintering and wood buckling as needed.
- Pick a thin adhesive-backed foam to line the vertical surfaces of the door frame.
- Place the screen door in its final position, and mark the corner holes, side rail holes, and bottom bar holes. Set the door aside.
- Pre-drill the holes.
- Re-place the door and screw it in: fairly tight at the bottom, but loosely around the corners and sides. Try opening and closing the screen door. Tighten the screws to get a good seal while not causing the screen door frame to curve too much.
Am I being too extreme? I will start to experiment and I hope to learn from others about their ideal installation.