Leveling question...

Jay_and_Kat

We're starting to collect needful things so when our nuCamp is ready for pickup we could haul it to a campground the next weekend if we wanted.  One of the suggestions someone made was to have a good level.

I'm presuming, realistically, any level will work, whether a decent carpenters level or the like, or would we find it easier to attach a couple bubble levels to the sides of the camper?

And, does anyone have suggestions on possibly a good leveling kit (chocks, blocks, maybe pads for the legs)?

Binghi

For the sake of accuracy I would use a handheld bubble level. Place it on the floor lengthwise and crosswise.

To level the trailer we use an Andersen curved leveler and chock. Works great. Just put the leveler behind the low-side wheel, back the trailer up until it is level, and chock it.

Jay_and_Kat

@Binghi I'd wondered about those curved drive-on levelers, I'd been considering the ones that stack and lock like legos, but I might reconsider now.

Sharon_is_SAM

We have the cheap stick on bubble levels x 5 seasons now.  We have a set on both the driver and passenger sides - 1 on the side and one on the front of the TaB.  Anderson levelers are great for those who usually camp at fairly flat campsites.

[Deleted User]

I absolutly love the BAL leveler. I've used it for 7 years on a 320 and a 400 and can't imagine using anything else. You park then slip this around tire. Then I use my drill with the same bit you use to raise and lower the stabilizers legs......by the way....do not use the stabilizers to level the camper. They should only just kiss the ground. 

The BAL is great because you don't need someone to help you drive up on the block type Levelers. It's a little harder to get around the Boondock style tire but it fits fit. 

Check this out on Amazon

BAL 28050 Light Trailer Tire Leveler https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BH5MAA/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_glt_i_RCM1589F78ANMZH0NV1A

Mouseketab

I leveled my camper the first time using a large carpenters level front to back and side to side, then put the stick-on levelers over each wheel well and above each front handle.

I also use a BAL Leveler for side to side leveling. It's AWESOME!

bergger

I just use a small handheld bubble level.  It has a magnet on one end so it sticks nicely to the frame if you want to place it there.  Easy to check level in various areas of the trailer. I think the one I have is from Lowes and their Kobalt brand. 

Freespirit

We have used all of the above with success but our favorite is Clinometer App on our iPhone.  Open the app set the phone on the floor and you get front to back and side to side level in one easy view. 

Binghi

Jay_and_Kat said:

@Binghi I'd wondered about those curved drive-on levelers, I'd been considering the ones that stack and lock like legos, but I might reconsider now.

I started off with those Lego blocks. The curved drive-on leveler (at least the Andersen leveler - the other brands may be too short and lightweight) is a vast improvement over those blocks.

I use the Legos now as a base for the rear stabilizers. Stack five under each stab jack and you don’t have so far to go when you crank down. The stab jacks also seem to stabilize better that way. Not as much trailer shake when you move around in bed at night.

GatorEgg

I have two stick on bubble levels.  They’ve been there three years and thousands of miles.  One is centered above passenger side wheel well flair. The other is centered over the propane box.  

They cover all bases, fore and aft, side to side level.  Bought the in the camping isle at Walmart for about $8.

MuttonChops

@Jay_and_Kat ; I use and really like the
Hopkins 09715 Hitch Level.
It has the left-right, front-rear bubble levels and a neat dial that tells you which wheel is low and about how many inches are needed to reach left-right level.

I did have to trim/drill the plastic a bit to correctly fit my 320S when placed in-front of the wheel jack post.

And remember trailer does not have to be dead-on level to be comfortable and for all systems to work correctly.

Mickerly

A carpenters level is very accurate, but takes up a lot of space and the accuracy isn't required. If there are two of you, the stick on levels work great. We use a small round one and set it on the plate behind the tongue jack. It lives in a drawer in the trailer when not in use. If you are using the trailer as a single person, there is a big level you can put on the front of the trailer and see in the mirror while backing. You can use a smaller stick on level near the tongue jack for the other axis.

There are many ways to physically level the trailer. They all work. I've used wooden blocks, ramps and wedges. I find the "Legos", blocks and ramps take too much space in this small of a trailer. I use the curved wedges and like them very much. We carry a 14in long 2x6 to give me an extra 1.75 inches of lift when the wedges are too short. For staying in campgrounds and state parks, this has always worked. These are very small trailers, you don't need much lift to get level.

With the BAL leveler, it doesn't matter if you have a helper or not. It's a single person device. For us, it takes more room than the advantages are worth. Traveling alone or to less prepared campgrounds could be a different story.

Pick one method and give it a try. If that method doesn't feel right, think about what would be better and try something different. The only 'wrong' way is one that doesn't result in leveling. There are many good ways. One of the them will fit you better than the others.

Enjoy your new trailer. 

Dutch061

Levelmate Pro and an Anderson wedge, so simple a 5 year old can do it. Nice part is that you can move around within the campsite while watching how level it is side to side. Granted, you will spend a couple hundred bucks but to me it was well worth it!

I can literally be leveled, unhooked and done before most people with big campers can get the WDH released. 

Brad

Marceline

I started with a BAL leveler but stopped using it after a couple of years. But it's a good tool to have if you are going to want to level your trailer after unhitching (say you have pushed your trailer around to get it sideways in a campsite). Now I use a wedge-style leveler. I have a clamshell, so I open the back and put a torpedo level on the galley counter. It involves a little bit of walking back and forth between the TV and the back of the trailer to get it perfect, but after you've been doing it for a while you get a pretty good eye for it.

bergger

That Levelmate Pro is slick!  I may have to get one if I can convince the wife.  That may be difficult but  I am certainly going to try that Anderson leveler.  It may not work at all our boondocking sites but looks great for campgrounds and probably many boondock sites.  

Denny16

We have the Anderson leveler and it works great.  Doubles as a great chalk also.
 Cheers 

WayneW

Let’s not overlook the old school method. My 5/4 x 6 boards cost me nothing (left over from a deck project), work every time, I won’t be too worried if I drive off and leave them, and I can split and burn them for a campfire if I want!  But I do pair that with the bubble level / clinometer app on my iPhone. 

boonie

I have a 1.5 inch level that stays right to the left opening on the floor all the time, don't need much more than that imho

Jay_and_Kat

@WayneW I've got a bunch of 2x12 from a dog ramp we had to our back door I could carve up to use, but in one of my other posts (I think here) someone pointed out lumber can split on the grain and then you're not level anymore...

Dutch061

The thing to keep in mind with using lumber etc., more so than the "cost savings" (because it may be scrap or free) is the weight. There are a lot of people who are towing with vehicles that simply don't have the extra payload capacity to keep adding things. 

Brad

WayneW

@Dutch061, Good point on the space issue. We have an F150 so space isn’t too much of an issue for us. Somehow we still manage to mostly fill it up though. 

akarjala

I was looking at the simple bubble levels, and the fancier LevelMate Pro in conjunction with Anderson Levelers.  I need to be able to get things level by myself without getting in and out of the cab several times.  I landed on a bluetooth level that I stick side to side and then read level while in the pickup.  Then I can use the crank to level the trailer from front to back.  Here is more info if you're interested: Amazon.com: SOLA GO! Smart Digital Pocket Level with Bluetooth, Magnetic 3-Inch : Everything Else.  I keep it in the glovebox and get it out when I go out to survey the surroundings.  Also, I bought a 'used' one from Amazon Warehouse and saved about $40.

falcon1970

Don't get too hung up on leveling the trailer.  If it looks level it is probably close enough.  There are two caveats though.  if you have a three-way refrigerator (propane, 120vac, and 12vdc) then leveling may be more critical.  I don't have a propane fired fridge so I don't really worry about it but gas absorption fridges (propane fired) need to be close to level to A) work and not incur damage.  The 120vac/12vdc fridges are compressor operated and can stand some fairly significant leveling differences.  The other issue is the bed.  You may not want to sleep with your head lower than your feet.  From experience, I find that uncomfortable.
An 8" torpedo level (fairly inexpensive at Lowe's) will easily tell you how close to level you are.  Anything from 1/4 to 1/2 bubble off of top dead center is probably close enough to not be noticed by a sleeper or a fridge.

Maxcamp8

FYI the BAL tire leveler will not fit the original ST235/75/R15 tires on our 2021 boondock.  The opening between the two angled plates on the leveler is too narrow to slide in from face of tire.  Unless you were to drive up on very short pads first.  Another Amazon return...

Slackers

We have the Anderson Leveler wedges, but also carry a homemade step-up wooden system. The latter is made from left-over deck boards.  They're screwed together with deck screws.  We usually use the Anderson levelers, but in sandy, soft dirt, or gravelly situations the wooden step-up boards work better. We also modified the wedges with some medical tape that provides just enough grip to prevent the wedges from slipping apart in some situations.
If we started with the step-up system we wouldn't have purchased the Anderson system. Like others have said the Anderson system is space and weight efficient.

AnOldUR

Maxcamp8 said:

The opening between the two angled plates on the leveler is too narrow to slide in from face of tire.  Unless you were to drive up on very short pads first.

With the controversy over the old method of tire changing, this idea will probably not be liked by some, but here's what I do when terrain keeps me from sliding my BAL under the wheel. After disconnecting and positioning our T@B, I drop the tongue and fully extend the rear stabilizer on the side that I want to put the BAL. By raising the tongue, I can then lift the wheel just enough to get the BAL under it.

fstop32

I've gone the way of @Freespirit, I use the Clineometer app.  I put the camper basically where I want it and take a Clineometer reading.  I've run the math to know what one level of lego blocks equals in degrees of lift so I immediately know how many levels of blocks I need to put down.  Then it's just roll up on them and I'm done side to side.  I use a short magnetic torpedo level at the tongue to set my level front to back and I'm ready for a hammock nap.

Denny16

Our Anderson system came with a bit of rubber sheet, to fit between the levelers to prevent them sliding apart.  I also carry a bit of 2x6 long enough to put under the Anderson setup on soft sand or loose dirt to spread the ground load.  Works great.
 Cheers 

Freespirit

@fstop32 👍 we are in the same camp, I have put degree of of change along the incline of our rv leveling ramps so when I hit the sweet spot the wife puts up the stop sign ✋ we are done. 

PNWtabber

Unfortunately, I did not find this discussion until after I had posted related questions regarding using Anderson leveling blocks on my driveway.  Hoping to get some helpful tips on my situation:
https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/15549/leveling-at-home-and-storing#latest

marchule

Awesome.  Want to share your what one level of lego blocks is in degrees for those of us who are arithmetically challenged?