Switch Out Those Clunky Droopy Safety Chains

[Deleted User]

Great tip Gatoregg and thanks to pthomas for the focus on the washers. I'm going to Lowes tomorrow to get thicker washers so now I have a better idea of what im looking for.  I'm going back to the factory chains! The purpose of my original post sure took an unexpected turn. Haha

ChanW

Yeah, I'm not sure that mine were welded either.

When I was upgrading my chains, I spoke to a manufacturer of utility trailers about it, and he said that's what New York State requires.

TabbyShack said:
The chains do not come welded to the frame on the past three T@Bs I've owned. 

when ChanW said:

In NYS, the safety chains are required to be welded to the frame. Not sure if inspection actually checks for that.

[Deleted User]

Forgot to say the washers on my 2022 400 and my friends 2022 400 are thin and not Grade 8. Both of our washers appear to bent. 

MarkAl

I'm a little confused about the length. It was easy to unbolt the attachment on the frame and shorten each side so it didn't drag and was long enough not to bind in an extreme turn. I didn't remove any links so a longer section hangs down on non-stressed side. Is my confusion because many owners tow with different vehicles? That would affect the length and require these ad hoc adjustments to shorten the chains. It also seems that the correct length allows holding the tongue off the ground in the event of an uncoupling. A chain set that could drag and held up with a flimsy connection will break and drop the hitch to the ground. What am I missing - I'm still new to trailering.

pthomas745

@MarkAl each vehicle may have a different way of attaching the safety chains.  It has come up once or twice in the thread:  some vehicles the chains might attach to a point on the vehicle near the hitch with just a big "clip". On my Touareg, there are holes on each side of the hitch that about a half dozen links pass through, and they clip back to the chain (this is impossible to explain!) I can control the amount of chain that "hangs".  Owners who use the "clip" on chains may have to unbolt the chains from the tongue and shorten them , or they can use several different devices to "hold them up" to keep them off the pavement.  TabbyShack was attempting to find an easy way to deal with the chains.  They certainly are strong enough, but it looks like the question is how they attach to our trailers.  I learned a lot about washers today!

I don't know if you saw the link to the Purdue "Keep The Trailer Connected To The Truck" brochure posted above.  At about page 42, the discussion starts about safety chains, and in the section after chains, the discussion of how to set the length of the chains starts.  Along with the emergency brake cable, there are some considerations and options on the cable length. 

https://www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/ppp/ppp-92.pdf

tabiphile

@TabbyShack...good call. The setup currently on your rig will not hold if it comes under load. Not only is there the issue with the cable splice, there is (as your photo highlights) a pitiful kluge holding it to the frame. 
If you are heading out to buy hardware there is one other thing you could consider. Look for oversized washers with the same ID. They are available and will provide better engagement and load distribution with the chain-links. Always purchase the best available grade bolts and washers. The nylock that is being used on your current setup, I'm not sure it's kosher for that. I would lean towards the oversized washer, a lock washer and a drop of thread locker on the nuts. 

Horigan

Many hitch hook loops aren't big enough to allow the hook to completely pass thru for that method.  Hence why the proper alternative is to shorten the chain if you can only hook at the hitch hook loop.

Sharon_is_SAM

Here is how to attach your chains provided the eye of the hitch is large enough to pass the clip.  Also, you will want a clip rather than a hook.

[Deleted User]

Here is a pic of the washer holding everything together. I believe this is the factory bolt and washer but it's possible my dealer puts these on. For sure it doesn't look like this washer would hold up to 350lbs. My friend with a new 2022 400 has this same flimsy washer. I think this is what Nucamp is installing so it's not that the cables aren't safe. This weak washer is the weakest point. I would suggest everyone check their chains to see if they are attached solid. 

pthomas745

Since the washers aren't marked whether they are Grade 8 washers, it would be hard to tell if they are Grade 8 or not.  If you had some calipers that would measure the thickness, that would be useful.  Call NuCamp.  Ask if they buy their Grade 8 chain bolts with washers attached.

[Deleted User]

I just got back from Lowes and the selection was limited (in the larger diameter), but the guy that manages the hardware section was there tidying up, so that was great luck! He helped me find the best thing they had. These are thin so I'm going to use three of them on each bolt.  I got much larger diameter too so they won't bend on the sides like the original ones did.  I will see if I can find the Grade 8 online and order them. I'm camping on Friday, so I think three of these on each side will do the trick for now. I will keep a very close watch on them in the mean time. 

Denny16

You can get grade 8 bolts and washers at a good auto parts store, like NAPPA.
 Cheers 

AnOldUR

Sharon_is_SAM said:

Here is how to attach your chains provided the eye of the hitch is large enough to pass the clip.  Also, you will want a clip rather than a hook.

I'd like to see some load tests on this method. I'd be skeptical that it is taking advantage of the chains strength. I'm with @MarkAl 's post above. Shorten the chain to the proper length and you know it's stressing the chain as intended.