Norcold 3-Way Fridge Exhaust Fan Kit

Nomad

that's the inadequate main fan - hence the retro kits.
When you get around to it, the retro is an easy install.

SweetlyHome

The 3-way Norcold has computer type fan built in to it.  It is thermostatically controlled (the blue and red connecters in the photo are on the thermostat if I remember correctly), it blows directly on the cooling coil of the unit, and will come on if the unit gets hot enough.  Way back there is a thread on here where an owner replaces the thermostat with one that came on at a lower temp.  This thread had photos.  Because of its location it does not force air out of the cabinet only moves it around, thus the PV factory fan has been added to really force the air out of the cabinet.  I've only heard my Norcold fan run a couple of times.

jkjenn

I will be adding this fan and the a/c fan, soon.

jkjenn

I am in the middle of wiring exhaust fan. I am not using a factory switch, or fan, I am using my own.  On my switch, the middle terminal is labeled as load. Am I correct:

- The load terminal from the switch should go to the red fridge fan,
- The positive wire from the switch should go to yellow fridge wire,
- The negative wire (white) from the switch should go to the fridge white wire and the negative wire from the fan should combine with the 2 negative wires,
- The yellow wire from the fan should be tied off?

I am using 2 of the smaller fans Outback used.

JiroTX

I am no expert, but that sounds correct to me. My fan from the factory (you should be able to see in the original post/instructions) had only red and black wires. I assume your yellow one is for ground.

Nomad

Jenn - Why?

jkjenn

@PXLated  - Why, what?

Nomad

Oooops - Is there a reason you're not using the factory kit?

jkjenn

When I ordered the fans, the factory still had the bigger ones. I wanted smaller ones that fit better.

Nomad

Ahhhh

FuzzyYanni

Can someone provide specs / model for the provided fan? Curious to see what the CFM / RPM and noise would be.

ScottG

I just received and installed mine last week. Peering under the louvers, here's what I can read on the fan body:

SUNON
MagLev
ME92251V1-000U-A99
DC12V - 2.0W

That's all I got. It blows air and seems pretty quiet to me.

T@Buhura

JiroTX said:

If you are currently using the 3-way fridge without the vent fan and installing it. You need to test the temperature after the installation and see what temp settings you need to use. Prior to the installation, I was always using the coldest settings. I tried "5" last night and left it running all night. It got down to 24F (when I opened up the fridge, the thermometer said 24F, so I assume the back of the fridge was even colder). I think I am going to use 3-4 from now on. This test was with only 3 bottles of water on the door and basically empty inside, so this might not be the case with the fridge full of food.

WOW! Is this running on propane or 120v? Are you noticing it's consistently cooler in the fridge with the aux fan running to keep the inside cabinet more ventilated?

JiroTX

It was on 120v. When I went to Big Bend (Chisos Basin Campground - Elevation 5,401 ft) back in March, I used it on propane the whole time. Most people say that propane works better (makes it colder), but mine went up close to 50 degrees during the day time even though it was only 90 degrees outside (under direct sun, vent fan on, no A/C running). I'm not sure what the issue was, but I haven't tested since then. I just think you basically have your T@B (at least the front part) under some kind of shade or have the A/C running to keep the room temp lower.

SweetlyHome

Looking for information.  I have read the Norcold draws 10+ amps on 12 Volts, or roughly 120 watts of heat is being generated.  Does anyone know how many amps it draws at 120V,  anything over 1 amp indicates more heat is being generated to drive the absorption process thus more cooling.

FuzzyYanni

Thanks ScottG your fan must be this one :  Sunon Fans ME92251V1-000U-A99
http://www.alliedelec.com/sunon-fans-me92251v1-000u-a99/70226008/

Specs for those that are using their own fans :  DC; 12V; 92x92x25mm;  51.5CFM; 2W; 34dBA; 3000RPM
The important info is 51.5CFM and 34db - this is a loud fan no doubt.

I will be using (2) 120mm fans with a very different unorthodox mounting system that places permanenent holes in the alufiber exterior [yes, ghasp   ]

http://store.antec.com/enclosure-fans/truequiet-120.html   1000RPM 19.9db  35.8 CFM 
when combined the resulting noise will be  25.9db and air flow should work out to ~71 CFM

Because of the increased airflow I am looking to install a motor speed control to further reduce the noise of these fans but this might not be necessary, we shall see!

https://www.amazon.com/Bhbuy-Motor-Control-Switch-Controller/dp/B00RUUUR9W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1471909786&sr=8-3&keywords=PWM+DC+6V/12V/24V/28V+3A+Motor+Speed+Control+Switch+Controller


See images below

Nomad

Show off - Most of us feel lucky to get the factory kit wired in :-)
Now, if your services are avaible I'll let you reconfigure mine - other than holes in the siding.

FuzzyYanni

Test fitting the fans. this layout gives me just enough space to slide my hand in there.
Hopefully I can add dicor in the screw holes and over the screws. This is all  hidden by the plastic cover.

FuzzyYanni

Q: Do you guys see any issues with splicing into the main 12V for the fridge?

I really dislike the idea of cutting down this wire using the quick splice connectors... potentially increasing resistance and (thereby voltage drop) across these wires is super bad news, folks have  reported fridges not working on DC due to voltage drop across the main wires feeding 12V to the fridge (this is for a TADA mind you)

I'm thinking of simply cutting the wires and using a crimp sleeve (aka Nylon Closed End Connector) instead, or just standard marrets.

Tabaz

Fuzzy - check out "noisy Norcold" for another discussion on fans.  While the two additional fans will be quiet, you may also want to replace the stock Norcold fan under the cooling fins.

ScottG

FuzzyYanni said:

Q: Do you guys see any issues with splicing into the main 12V for the fridge?

I really dislike the idea of cutting down this wire using the quick splice connectors... potentially increasing resistance and (thereby voltage drop) across these wires is super bad news, folks have  reported fridges not working on DC due to voltage drop across the main wires feeding 12V to the fridge (this is for a TADA mind you)

I'm thinking of simply cutting the wires and using a crimp sleeve (aka Nylon Closed End Connector) instead, or just standard marrets.

I was also squeamish about using the quick splices in my main 12 volt lines. Turns out there was a simple and elegant solution. I crimped small ring terminals on the ends of the relevant wires, and connected them directly to the 12 volt terminals on junction block on the top of fridge. The original 12 volt leads were untouched. I did need to file and bend the rings a little to get them to fit, but that was easy enough.

FuzzyYanni

ScottG - That was my initial hope, but the terminal block screws are way too tight to unscrew in that tiny compartment !

ScottG

It is tight. I popped the stove out and worked from above using a right-angle screwdriver.

FuzzyYanni

What's the best way to remove that (presumed Dicor) gunk on the paint? It is waaaay stickier and tough than the roof vent Dicor.

ScottG

Don't know. Mine only had a little bead of what appeared to be silicone caulking. Shaved it off with a razor blade and replaced with same when I installed the new vent. 

Tommy

Mine too Scott - just a tiny bead of caulk that was easily removed (and replaced).

FuzzyYanni

That bead was not Dicor, no way. I just replace the roof vent and that was Dicor, but this was WAY stickier and very hard to remove. 

AldebaranJill

Is there a PDF somewhere that describes wiring this? I just received my fridge aux fan from Elsie, and there are no instructions.

AldebaranJill

source3 said:

Just installed the fan upgrade today.  What a pain, I had to trim both the fan housing and the hole in the T@B.  Hey FACTORY, use two smaller fans!  The pdf was helpful for wiring.  However, illuminated rocker switches commonly use the middle terminal for 12v+ coming from the battery.  I switch the red and yellow wires on the switch.  I confirmed that the yellow wire was from the 12v+ battery looking at the Norcold wiring diagram.

In looking at the rocker switch, as provided from factory, it's yellow "+", red "A", and white "ground". So you're saying you swapped the red and yellow wires, so that the yellow was in the center, which corresponds to the "A"?

Nomad

There's a video somewhere - At least there was way back over a year ago when I did mine. And mine was easy, I did it on the road in a muni park while watching the highschool football team practice.