Norcold 3-Way Fridge Exhaust Fan Kit

124

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  • Nomad
    Nomad Member Posts: 7,209
    that's the inadequate main fan - hence the retro kits.
    When you get around to it, the retro is an easy install.
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  • SweetlyHome
    SweetlyHome Member Posts: 336
    edited March 2016
    The 3-way Norcold has computer type fan built in to it.  It is thermostatically controlled (the blue and red connecters in the photo are on the thermostat if I remember correctly), it blows directly on the cooling coil of the unit, and will come on if the unit gets hot enough.  Way back there is a thread on here where an owner replaces the thermostat with one that came on at a lower temp.  This thread had photos.  Because of its location it does not force air out of the cabinet only moves it around, thus the PV factory fan has been added to really force the air out of the cabinet.  I've only heard my Norcold fan run a couple of times.
    Jupiter, Florida~T@B 400, with 2018 Toyota 4Runner

       
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  • jkjenn
    jkjenn Member Posts: 6,417
    I will be adding this fan and the a/c fan, soon.

    2021 T@b 320 Boondock "Mattie Ross" | 2021 T@b Nights: 239 | Total nights in a T@b 455 | 2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee L Overland | T@b owner since 2014

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  • jkjenn
    jkjenn Member Posts: 6,417
    I am in the middle of wiring exhaust fan. I am not using a factory switch, or fan, I am using my own.  On my switch, the middle terminal is labeled as load. Am I correct:

    - The load terminal from the switch should go to the red fridge fan,
    - The positive wire from the switch should go to yellow fridge wire,
    - The negative wire (white) from the switch should go to the fridge white wire and the negative wire from the fan should combine with the 2 negative wires,
    - The yellow wire from the fan should be tied off?

    I am using 2 of the smaller fans Outback used.

    2021 T@b 320 Boondock "Mattie Ross" | 2021 T@b Nights: 239 | Total nights in a T@b 455 | 2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee L Overland | T@b owner since 2014

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  • JiroTX
    JiroTX Member Posts: 124
    I am no expert, but that sounds correct to me. My fan from the factory (you should be able to see in the original post/instructions) had only red and black wires. I assume your yellow one is for ground.
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  • Nomad
    Nomad Member Posts: 7,209
    Jenn - Why?
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  • jkjenn
    jkjenn Member Posts: 6,417
    @PXLated  - Why, what?

    2021 T@b 320 Boondock "Mattie Ross" | 2021 T@b Nights: 239 | Total nights in a T@b 455 | 2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee L Overland | T@b owner since 2014

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  • Nomad
    Nomad Member Posts: 7,209
    Oooops - Is there a reason you're not using the factory kit?
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  • jkjenn
    jkjenn Member Posts: 6,417
    When I ordered the fans, the factory still had the bigger ones. I wanted smaller ones that fit better.

    2021 T@b 320 Boondock "Mattie Ross" | 2021 T@b Nights: 239 | Total nights in a T@b 455 | 2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee L Overland | T@b owner since 2014

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  • Nomad
    Nomad Member Posts: 7,209
    Ahhhh
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  • FuzzyYanni
    FuzzyYanni Member Posts: 110
    Can someone provide specs / model for the provided fan? Curious to see what the CFM / RPM and noise would be.

    "I know one thing, I know nothing."
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  • ScottG
    ScottG Administrator Posts: 5,655
    I just received and installed mine last week. Peering under the louvers, here's what I can read on the fan body:

    SUNON
    MagLev
    ME92251V1-000U-A99
    DC12V - 2.0W

    That's all I got. It blows air and seems pretty quiet to me.
    2015 T@B Max S (320)
    2015 Nissan Frontier SV V6 4x4
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  • T@Buhura
    T@Buhura Member Posts: 97
    JiroTX said:
    If you are currently using the 3-way fridge without the vent fan and installing it. You need to test the temperature after the installation and see what temp settings you need to use. Prior to the installation, I was always using the coldest settings. I tried "5" last night and left it running all night. It got down to 24F (when I opened up the fridge, the thermometer said 24F, so I assume the back of the fridge was even colder). I think I am going to use 3-4 from now on. This test was with only 3 bottles of water on the door and basically empty inside, so this might not be the case with the fridge full of food.






    WOW! Is this running on propane or 120v? Are you noticing it's consistently cooler in the fridge with the aux fan running to keep the inside cabinet more ventilated?
    2006 Dutchman T@B T16, 2010 Volvo XC90 3.2 R-Design
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  • JiroTX
    JiroTX Member Posts: 124
    It was on 120v. When I went to Big Bend (Chisos Basin Campground - Elevation 5,401 ft) back in March, I used it on propane the whole time. Most people say that propane works better (makes it colder), but mine went up close to 50 degrees during the day time even though it was only 90 degrees outside (under direct sun, vent fan on, no A/C running). I'm not sure what the issue was, but I haven't tested since then. I just think you basically have your T@B (at least the front part) under some kind of shade or have the A/C running to keep the room temp lower.
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  • SweetlyHome
    SweetlyHome Member Posts: 336
    Looking for information.  I have read the Norcold draws 10+ amps on 12 Volts, or roughly 120 watts of heat is being generated.  Does anyone know how many amps it draws at 120V,  anything over 1 amp indicates more heat is being generated to drive the absorption process thus more cooling.
    Jupiter, Florida~T@B 400, with 2018 Toyota 4Runner

       
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  • FuzzyYanni
    FuzzyYanni Member Posts: 110
    Thanks ScottG your fan must be this one :  Sunon Fans ME92251V1-000U-A99
    http://www.alliedelec.com/sunon-fans-me92251v1-000u-a99/70226008/

    Specs for those that are using their own fans :  DC; 12V; 92x92x25mm;  51.5CFM; 2W; 34dBA; 3000RPM
    The important info is 51.5CFM and 34db - this is a loud fan no doubt.

    I will be using (2) 120mm fans with a very different unorthodox mounting system that places permanenent holes in the alufiber exterior [yes, ghasp      :o ]

    http://store.antec.com/enclosure-fans/truequiet-120.html   1000RPM 19.9db  35.8 CFM 
    when combined the resulting noise will be  25.9db and air flow should work out to ~71 CFM

    Because of the increased airflow I am looking to install a motor speed control to further reduce the noise of these fans but this might not be necessary, we shall see!

    https://www.amazon.com/Bhbuy-Motor-Control-Switch-Controller/dp/B00RUUUR9W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1471909786&sr=8-3&keywords=PWM+DC+6V/12V/24V/28V+3A+Motor+Speed+Control+Switch+Controller


    See images below










    "I know one thing, I know nothing."
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  • Nomad
    Nomad Member Posts: 7,209
    edited August 2016
    Show off - Most of us feel lucky to get the factory kit wired in :-)
    Now, if your services are avaible I'll let you reconfigure mine - other than holes in the siding.
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  • FuzzyYanni
    FuzzyYanni Member Posts: 110
    Test fitting the fans. this layout gives me just enough space to slide my hand in there.
    Hopefully I can add dicor in the screw holes and over the screws. This is all  hidden by the plastic cover.



    "I know one thing, I know nothing."
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  • FuzzyYanni
    FuzzyYanni Member Posts: 110
    Q: Do you guys see any issues with splicing into the main 12V for the fridge?

    I really dislike the idea of cutting down this wire using the quick splice connectors... potentially increasing resistance and (thereby voltage drop) across these wires is super bad news, folks have  reported fridges not working on DC due to voltage drop across the main wires feeding 12V to the fridge (this is for a TADA mind you)

    I'm thinking of simply cutting the wires and using a crimp sleeve (aka Nylon Closed End Connector) instead, or just standard marrets.

    "I know one thing, I know nothing."
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  • Tabaz
    Tabaz Member Posts: 2,421
    Fuzzy - check out "noisy Norcold" for another discussion on fans.  While the two additional fans will be quiet, you may also want to replace the stock Norcold fan under the cooling fins.
    2016 Outback 320
    2024 Ford F150 Supercrew short bed.
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  • ScottG
    ScottG Administrator Posts: 5,655
    FuzzyYanni said:
    Q: Do you guys see any issues with splicing into the main 12V for the fridge?

    I really dislike the idea of cutting down this wire using the quick splice connectors... potentially increasing resistance and (thereby voltage drop) across these wires is super bad news, folks have  reported fridges not working on DC due to voltage drop across the main wires feeding 12V to the fridge (this is for a TADA mind you)

    I'm thinking of simply cutting the wires and using a crimp sleeve (aka Nylon Closed End Connector) instead, or just standard marrets.

    I was also squeamish about using the quick splices in my main 12 volt lines. Turns out there was a simple and elegant solution. I crimped small ring terminals on the ends of the relevant wires, and connected them directly to the 12 volt terminals on junction block on the top of fridge. The original 12 volt leads were untouched. I did need to file and bend the rings a little to get them to fit, but that was easy enough.

    2015 T@B Max S (320)
    2015 Nissan Frontier SV V6 4x4
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  • FuzzyYanni
    FuzzyYanni Member Posts: 110
    ScottG - That was my initial hope, but the terminal block screws are way too tight to unscrew in that tiny compartment !
    "I know one thing, I know nothing."
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  • ScottG
    ScottG Administrator Posts: 5,655
    It is tight. I popped the stove out and worked from above using a right-angle screwdriver.



    2015 T@B Max S (320)
    2015 Nissan Frontier SV V6 4x4
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  • FuzzyYanni
    FuzzyYanni Member Posts: 110
    What's the best way to remove that (presumed Dicor) gunk on the paint? It is waaaay stickier and tough than the roof vent Dicor.

    "I know one thing, I know nothing."
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  • ScottG
    ScottG Administrator Posts: 5,655
    Don't know. Mine only had a little bead of what appeared to be silicone caulking. Shaved it off with a razor blade and replaced with same when I installed the new vent. 
    2015 T@B Max S (320)
    2015 Nissan Frontier SV V6 4x4
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  • Tommy
    Tommy Member Posts: 175
    edited August 2016
    Mine too Scott - just a tiny bead of caulk that was easily removed (and replaced).




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  • FuzzyYanni
    FuzzyYanni Member Posts: 110
    edited September 2016
    That bead was not Dicor, no way. I just replace the roof vent and that was Dicor, but this was WAY stickier and very hard to remove. 

    "I know one thing, I know nothing."
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  • AldebaranJill
    AldebaranJill Member Posts: 478
    Is there a PDF somewhere that describes wiring this? I just received my fridge aux fan from Elsie, and there are no instructions.
    2013 MAXX T@B towed by a 2015 Volvo S60 5 CYL AWD Sedan
    Seattle, WA -> Palm Springs, CA
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  • AldebaranJill
    AldebaranJill Member Posts: 478
    source3 said:
    Just installed the fan upgrade today.  What a pain, I had to trim both the fan housing and the hole in the T@B.  Hey FACTORY, use two smaller fans!  The pdf was helpful for wiring.  However, illuminated rocker switches commonly use the middle terminal for 12v+ coming from the battery.  I switch the red and yellow wires on the switch.  I confirmed that the yellow wire was from the 12v+ battery looking at the Norcold wiring diagram.
    In looking at the rocker switch, as provided from factory, it's yellow "+", red "A", and white "ground". So you're saying you swapped the red and yellow wires, so that the yellow was in the center, which corresponds to the "A"?
    2013 MAXX T@B towed by a 2015 Volvo S60 5 CYL AWD Sedan
    Seattle, WA -> Palm Springs, CA
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  • Nomad
    Nomad Member Posts: 7,209
    There's a video somewhere - At least there was way back over a year ago when I did mine. And mine was easy, I did it on the road in a muni park while watching the highschool football team practice.
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