Depends on the TV, and it’s alternator setup. Most modern new vehicles reduce the alternator output when the vehicle is in higher rpm’s, and charge the battery at lower rpm’s. Many do not out out enough to charge both the vehicle and trailer battery, unless it has a larger alternator setup for towing. Cheers
2018 TaB400 Custom Boondock, Jeep Gladiator truck, Northern California Coast.
Here is monitor with engine running on TV. No change in battery voltage whether running or not. I confirmed 12v pin is ‘hot’ and brake controller is getting 12v from it.
Ultimate Toys Teardrop Camper Volvo XC-40 SF Bay Area, California
Well, provided your battery switch is on, there will be a draw from the LP/CO alarm, USBs, frig, etc. Maybe the incoming current is offset by the draws? Most only act like a trickle charger anyway.
@jbajor It can, but you need an adequate sized wire from the alternator to the 7 pin (rarely installed as a factory default on an SUV, usually a fairly narrow gauge is installed), and either an oversized alternator, a second alternator, or a DC-DC charger. Of these, the first two are again, rare on SUVs straight from the assembly line, the third is a 3rd party mod.
Generally speaking, a trickle charge is pretty much what you’ll get from most vehicles. If you want more, your best bet for an aftermarket setup is to run a heavy gauge 12v wire from the alternator and add a DC-DC charger. Victron makes several, and there are a few threads here from people who installed them.
2019 320s BD Lite, white with blue (“Haven”) 2015 Subaru Outback 3.6r (unsafe 200lb tongue weight limit until 2020 models) 2020 Subaru Outback XT Pacific NW
The Screen shot of the solar controller only shows what your panel was delivering. With the small solar voltage and 11 watts it must have been pretty cloudy or low light on the array. Only a shunt (e.g. Victron Smartshunt) connected directly to your battery will give you the total of solar and TV charging. However I agree with the above statements on the TV charging ability - the alternator is NOT a battery charger as much as a battery recovery and system voltage source. To really charge the trailer battery you need something like the Victron Orion TR DC-DC charger in line with the 12V out of the trailer. The nice thing with staying with Victron is they all network together to intelligently monitor and control the charging.
Snohomish WA, 2015 Diesel Grand Cherokee Sm@ll World: 2021 320S Boondock, 6V Pb-acid Shunt, Roof & Remote solar & 30A DC-DC Chargers managed by VE Smart Network
I mounted the Victron Orion in the bed of my truck and ran 8ga wire to the battery. From there, I put a heavy duty connector on my bumper. I added a pigtail from the junction box on the Tab to plug into my truck. I get 12 to 18 amps into my lithiums when the engine is running. Yes, there is voltage drop between the controller and Tab battery. I plan to correct that by running new wiring through the trailer to the battery and moving the Orion back to the battery.
Comments
Cheers
Volvo XC-40
SF Bay Area, California
Volvo XC-40
SF Bay Area, California
Volvo XC-40
SF Bay Area, California
Generally speaking, a trickle charge is pretty much what you’ll get from most vehicles. If you want more, your best bet for an aftermarket setup is to run a heavy gauge 12v wire from the alternator and add a DC-DC charger. Victron makes several, and there are a few threads here from people who installed them.
2015 Subaru Outback 3.6r (unsafe 200lb tongue weight limit until 2020 models)
2020 Subaru Outback XT
Pacific NW
Volvo XC-40
SF Bay Area, California
Sm@ll World: 2021 320S Boondock, 6V Pb-acid
Shunt, Roof & Remote solar & 30A DC-DC Chargers
managed by VE Smart Network
Yes, there is voltage drop between the controller and Tab battery. I plan to correct that by running new wiring through the trailer to the battery and moving the Orion back to the battery.
Jeff & Amy
Volvo XC-40
SF Bay Area, California