I posted this issue on the NuCamp Facebook group and, despite all their expertise, they are stumped. My apologies if you’ve seen this there. I’m hoping someone might have a solution.
We picked up our 2023 T@B 400 about a week ago. On the advice of several of you, we've parked the rig (yet-to-be-named) in our driveway and have spent the past week getting to know it's various systems. We love it and are looking forward to our first trip in a week or so. I have an electrical issue I've not been able to figure out. Mostly, I've left the rig unplugged from shore power. The days have been sunny and the solar panel has kept the lithium battery fully charged. In the evening I shut everything off except the isotherm fridge; I've left the battery on. In the morning the battery seems to be dead - no fridge, no lights, nothing. The battery monitor inside the door doesn't even register. When I plug into shore power, everything powers up immediately, the battery charge monitor reads full, and the voltage reading on the Victron app reads 13+ (solar) and 13+ (battery).
A quick note to add that might help sort through this issue. I disconnected from shore power very soon after everything powered up and the battery read as fully charged. Once disconnected, the electrical system works fine and battery still reads as fully charged. So, it appears the battery remained charged overnight, it just didn't read that way in the morning. Plugging into shore power seems to have re-set the system in some way and then fully charged battery reads that way.
Does anyone have an idea about what's going on here and how to address it? Thanks!
(Title edited for search purposes. Moderator)
Comments
Also - what kind of battery are you using and what are the specs? If it's a LiFePO4 type, I'm wondering if you're somehow tripping a failsafe on the onboard BMS system.
2022 T@b 320 S / 2021 Subaru Outback
The Victron solar control will top it off if you have sun and will give correct voltage readings but you need to have all loads off to get a battery rest reading. If you want to know exactly what the battery charge condition is you can get a Victron smart shunt.
Cheers
Charge the battery via shore power for 24hrs and things should work for a few days.
” …lithium batteries do not experience a significant voltage drop as they drain. Without a battery monitor, there is no warning your batteries are dying until they are dead and the BMS (Battleborn built in battery monitor) shuts them off.”
Here is the link: https://battlebornbatteries.com/what-is-a-battery-monitor/
Basically, you need the Victron shunted battery monitor.
As others have suggested, a Victron Smart Shunt would be especially helpful for charting your battery's behavior and identifying potentially problematic loads that are draining it faster than expected.
Also - is it possible that you have the refrigerator set to the coldest temp range without anything inside? This is a worst case scenario for power consumption.
2022 T@b 320 S / 2021 Subaru Outback
2018 T@B 320 CS-S; Alde 3020; 4 cyl 2020 Subaru Outback Onyx XT
as for the DC Norcold fridge, setting it to “3” is a good starting point, and get a fridge thermometer to determine the fridge temp, which should be between 35-40F. Setting it to max cold, will make the fridge cycle more often and turn it into a freezer, which might not be good for the plastic liner?
Cheers
2015 Subaru Outback 3.6r (unsafe 200lb tongue weight limit until 2020 models)
2020 Subaru Outback XT
Pacific NW
I recently traded up from a 2018 400 to a 2022 400BD, and have made two and a half coast-to-coast round trips in the past year (45 nights aboard, 16K miles}. The Battleborn rides in our Ram TV and powers a Dometic chest fridge to supplement the 400’s small fridge. The plan was to use battery power by day, then shore power overnight to run the Dometic as well as a 25 amp Victron charger for the Battleborn. My setup includes the Victron shunt and meter.
After a few daily cycles and overnight rechargings, the battery refused to go above that 13.2 volt reading.
Upon arrival, I gave it a full 24 hours of charging without the Dometic connected, but still couldn’t get past 13.2, far below the desired 14.6.
I’ve now spoken to Battleborn tech support, which is excellent at getting back to you and working through the problem. They confirmed my low voltage, authorized a warranty return to evaluate the battery and its control board, and sent me a packaging kit so that Fed Ex could legally transport it. (Good luck if you need support on a $300 no-name).
The tech suggested that a cell or two may have “gotten out of balance” and the BMS (battery management system) is preventing full charging as a result.
My take away from all this is that Lithium offers great advantages, but is still a complex developing technology. Great that NuCamp is offering it, and likely it will be standard in just a few years, like LEDs. But there are still mysteries. So if you need further help, try Battleborn.
2019 T@B400 Boondock Lite "Todd"
2019 T@B400 Boondock Lite "Todd"
Seattle, WA
2015 Subaru Outback 3.6r (unsafe 200lb tongue weight limit until 2020 models)
2020 Subaru Outback XT
Pacific NW
I have mine mounted inside under the fridge horizontally. I have the wires that charge snaked thru the bottom vent under fridge. And I plug it into the outlet above my sink. For me, I use it to charge when on shore power before trips, so permanent mounting made sense. I like to see the lights ☺️
I have yet to see anyone else mention this as a solution to fully charging ANY battery that is very portable and doesnt necessitate another charger/converter installation to replace WFCO so wanted to let others know this is an option. Being able to control charging profiles via my phone has been tremendous.
J
Seattle, WA
2006 F-150
Coeur d'Alene, Idaho
Cheers
Spare & bike rack on tongue, Renogy 100w suitcase connection, cargo & door nets, sway bar, wired rear camera, Norcold aux fan, front window protection, frame mounted sewer & water hose storage, Krieger 1500w inverter w/100Ah LIFePO4.
‘17 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E- 5000# tow cap, 600# tongue cap
‘20 Honda Pilot Elite- 5000# tow cap, 500# tongue cap
Huntington LI
I wonder how the charge-curve, and battery maintenance capability of it, compares to the Noco Genius.
Per Noco, the Genius' de-sulfation cycle is effective at avoiding needing to 'recondition'. I'd love to see a comparison of that to the Victron's 'reconditioning' and 'storage' modes.
Edit:
Ok, you got me looking into it...
It seems that the Noco Gen1 that I've been using, lacks any kind of equalization mode (should have known that), although it does tout its de-sulfation charging cycle capability.
ie: The only way I'd be able to run an equalization cycle, in this case, would be on a nice sunny day using my solar panels.
But my question now is, is equalization important, if the battery is already being properly desulfated? Any knowledgeable battery chemists? 🤔
I'm liking this Victron, because of the equalizing function... It doesn't depend on the sun (or lack of!)
(Oops, sorry, off topic! You lucky lithium battery owners don't need to worry about such things! But this Victron charger offers an easy path for an upgrade to lithium for me! One more justification for a cool new smart-charger!)
2014 S Maxx
2011 Tacoma 4cyl ... edit: 2022 Tacoma 6cyl - oh yeah!
A_Little_T@b'll_Do_Ya
2013 Toyota Highlander 3.5L V6