Do you feel the Nautilus system is an improvement?

Calvin

Denny16

You need another category with a yes, but answer.  I feel in many ways the Nautilus added some nice benefits and features.  It is a water manifold system, which I have always bee; keen on.  However, the way it is implemented, it does add some complexity and confusion as to how to use it.  

I like having all the water and external connections in one area, behind one door.  That said, the original pre Nautilus setup on the 2018/2019 TaB 400s, with the three low point drains and the separate Alde bypass valve, is an easy setup to use, and avoids the complexity the Nautilus added.  That said, being able to pump additional water into the water tank from a jug or bucket is a nice additional feature.
 Cheers 

RobynE

I REALLY miss being able to see and touch all my water lines and valves and the glycol pumps and yellow flappers valves without having to remove my mattress and bedding just to get under there. I also really miss the fresh water gravity fill port.  Also less leaks! If given the choice now that I've had both old style and Nautilius, I would definitely not choose the Nautilius.  More than a few people can't get the siphon feature to work on the Nautilius, so that's another negative strike against the Nautilius. I don't have an issue with mine but it seems many do. 

kottum

This 2022 320 BD is our first Tab, but compared to our previous Airstreams the Nautilus is incredibly simple to do the similar functions.  I love it.

Douglas

SLJ

Simpler to operate than the campervan and motorhome I had but only because the switches/valves are all in one place.

Denny16

Having all the water connections and controls in one place is what I also like about the Nautilus.  I considered trying to install one on our TaB, but have abandoned the idea.  What we have on the 2018 TaB400 works fine.  All our low point drains and Alde bypass are already in one compartment, accessible from the outside.  In addition, I can reach in to adjust the Alde hot water temp valve and just reach the yellow pressure relief valve, and the access door locks.
 Cheers 

bergger

I voted "unsure" as I kinda feel the same as Denny16 does, yes but... I've had both types of plumbing setups, Nautilus and traditional city feed and gravity feed with separate bypass lever.  Things I like about the Nautilus:  the siphon mode for adding water to the fresh water tank, well diagramed instructions that I feel are easy to follow, I like all the connections and levers in that one compartment and the 2nd switch for the 12v pump.  That being said I do not like the plate of spaghetti that is the plumbing lines and connections behind the panel.  Add the four levers on the panel and there are just way more things that can go wrong than with a traditional set up.  Also with my last trailer I ended up using a shaker siphon that worked fine to add water to the tank from a jug.  Honestly I think sometimes it was easier to get going than priming the pump to siphon.  I guess I'm fine with either setup and the Nautilus definitely would not sway me to buy a trailer.  So I don't think it is an improvement, it's just a different and probably more expensive option.  I often think the K.I.S.S. principal is the best way to go. 

Horigan

I'm glad I have a pre-Nautilus 400 because its simplicity makes it easy to winterize with just the blowout method, without having to add antifreeze.

Denny16

@Horigan, I m with you on this…. The Nautilus is interesting, and has some nice features, but I will stick with our pre-Nautilus TaB.
 Cheers 

stp2136

I think the Nautilus is a solution for a nonexistent problem.  It is overly complicated, hard to understand, and, as others have pointed out, difficult to fill the fresh tank when boondocking. All that is needed is a city water connection downstream of the pump, a gravity fill direct to the fresh tank, and a water heater bypass valve.  For those in northern climes who desire to winterize the plumbing with antifreeze an inexpensive three way valve in the pump suction line has been the preferred solution for years.

VictoriaP

I think the main real “advantage” to the Nautilus is the siphoning ability….and it sounds like that works so poorly that it can’t really be called an advantage. As @stp2136 notes, the inline 3-way valve solution to the antifreeze problem is cheap, and well proven; I installed one my first year, and I’m far from the most skilled DIYer on the planet.

I suppose another plus is moving access to the valves outside of places like under the dinette or the bed, but the added complexity of the plumbing that is involved then adds to the potential for leaks.

It wouldn’t be a dealbreaker for me on a new RV, but neither do I see it as an asset.

manyman297

To me the biggest advantage is less holes all over the side of the RV. All of those penetrations need resealing on occasion so keeping as few of these as possible is always a plus.

I also think the levers and preset positions really simplify things for newbies. The problem is that it simplifies it so much that many of us don’t even know what each lever does. For me it wasn’t until after I had thoroughly read the manual that I understood what each lever did and their positions.

KK1L

@manyman297 I just found the details in the manual too. I will probably laminate a copy to keep in the compartment.

manyman297

Yeah, understanding what each lever actually does comes in handy when winterizing, filling/hooking up, etc. I wish techs would educate owners during orientation but that’s apparently too tall an order.

pthomas745

If you look back at the first years of the Alde plumbing, there was the same "pipe shock" when the process for winterizing was pictured and explained.  The first time opening up the Alde compartment and looking at all the spaghetti was intimidating.  And...why did they ever call it the "Alde bypass?"  Why not "plumbing detour?"  But, I digress.  After the first time I sanitized, I discovered the process is pretty simple.  Still intimidating.  But not hard.  And: the knowledge base of this group is the big big difference.  As a group, the Forum will get better and better at this.

Improvement: yes.  Except for the Yellow Valve, one more Tab Yoga session has been greatly simplified.

jkjenn

Yes, absolutely an improvement. People no longer have to guess whether they have bypassed the correct plumbing and winterizing is done in less than 10 minutes.

The siphon has worked great for me. I find that people are often using hoses that are too long when they have issues.

I also love the coax connections that can be used for cell phone boosters.

On a 320, the yellow pressure relief valve location did not change.

Denny16

Nor did they on the TaB400, which requires unscrewing the top plywood cover (on newer TaB 400s) to get to the Alde compartment where the yellow flipper valves are.
 Cheers 

manyman297

I wonder if there's room to drill a hole into the side of the nautilus compartment...large enough to get your hand/arm through to reach those nautilus levers. By memory I'm thinking no but that would be a great way to access those levers without removing that plywood cover. Then find some way to plug it up. I don't even screw mine down anymore since it's such a pain to access everything.

Denny16

Not likely, I can barely reach the Alde main boiler relief valve from the compartment door, without the Nautilus is the way.  If you are just trying to burb the A
de to replace the air cushion, you can do that with the hot water low point drain.  

Cheers 

manyman297

I keep hearing conflicting advice about whether or not you should drain the Alde. Most of this season I didn’t drain it. 

Denny16

It is a hot water tank, and you are not drinking it anyway.  So if you are using the TaB, no need to drain the hot water tank, although, that said Alde recommends draining the hot water system when not being used.  When getting ready for winter storage, then you need to drain the complete system.  

Cheers 

manyman297

Good to know. We maybe drained it once or twice this season before winterizing.

Sharon_is_SAM

@manyman297, due to risk of bacterial growth, you should not allow water to sit in your RV tanks or plumbing when the RV is not in use.  The Alde manual specifically instructs to empty the Alde water tank when not in use.  In my mind, that is in between trips
There have been a couple of TaB owners over the years who either did not drain the fresh water tank or acquired a used trailer where the fresh water tank was not maintained resulting in algae in the tank.  I understand that it was not easy to clean up.  

There should be no misunderstanding of this message.  You may plan to use your TaB shortly after returning from a trip and leave your tanks full.  Life happens and the next thing you know, your plans get interrupted and your tanks sit their forgotten.  

Alde Manual

 “The hydronic heating system and its plumbing components should always be drained of fresh water when there is a risk of freezing and when the RV is not in use.”

nuCamp Owners Manual 

 “Always drain holding tanks when they are not in use. This will eliminate contaminants from stale water and prevent freezing in winter.”

manyman297

@Sharon_is_SAM Thanks for the info. Let's not confuse the Alde tank with the fresh water tank though. You mention used trailers and fresh water tanks above which is not what we're discussing here. I always drain the fresh water tank. I'm referring strictly to the Alde hot/cold water drains. 

I'm now even contemplating creating some kind of access above with a hinge so it's a little easier to drain the Alde. If it's meant to be drained after every trip then it needs to be more accessible. 

Denny16

Sharon is right, if you want to drain all the water out, then you need to use the yellow pressure relief valves.  That said for owners of a 2018/2019 TaB400, the three low point drains will completely drain the water system, including the Alde hot water tank.  But on newer TaBs with the Nautilus system, the low,point drains do not completely drain the Alde hot water tank.
cheers 

Sharon_is_SAM

@manyman297 - I understand that we are referencing the Alde, but stagnant water is stagnant water with the same potential results.  Just wanted to share those results and the Alde manual is very clear about emptying the Alde water tank.  I agree that it would be much better if the Alde Safety/Drain valve was more accessible.

GregChris

In my old Winnie, I had to remove my queen mattress to take the cover off of water heater comp. Then reach in with a flashlight and turn 3 valves to put the tank in bypass. Then move to the other side to access low point valves. Then put everything back because the mattress was in the way. Then remove six screws to remove a panel 6' long by 3' high so I could get to the water pump. I left the panel off until spring when I had to do everything over. Definitely easier.