Norcold n180.3 discontinued

Alfiris2

I have a 2018 T@b 320s Boondock.  The Norcold n180.3 3 way fridge stopped working on propane and electricity.  I found out that Norcold has discontinued making this model fridge and repair parts are no longer available.  Because of the short depth that is necessary I cannot find a different 3 way replacement. The only option is to replace it with a two way, like the Isotherm Cruise 65. I think that my AGM battery will not be enough to run the two way fridge. Also, I do not have the rooftop solar panels. I am wondering if others have run into this problem and how they handled it if it has happened to them. 

Sharon_is_SAM

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/17806/3-way-norcold-replacement#latest

https://tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com/discussion/17178/norcold-n180-3-replacement#latest

Alfiris2

I wish that there would be a 3 way replacement. I usually camp for a couple of weeks at a time at state campgrounds and other places where there are no electric hookups. I was hopeful when I read about the Vitrifrigo 3 way, but I cannot find a vendor in the US. I just don’t see how I could make a 2 way work without spending a lot of money on rooftop solar panels and a lithium battery. 

AnOldUR

Alfiris2 said:

I just don’t see how I could make a 2 way work without spending a lot of money on rooftop solar panels and a lithium battery. 

A 100 amp hour LiFePO4 can be bought for less than $300. A 200W solar suitcase for less than $200. The chest type fridge we installed on a slide sells for less than $300. We also bought a small, light 700W propane generator for $250 to charge the battery when solar is not keeping up, but have only used it a few time in nearly 30K miles of T@Bing. So, a little over $1000 for limitless use of a 12V fridge.

How does that compare to the cost of the 3-way replacements you've considered?

Alfiris2

Well, considering that there is no 3 way replacement to be found I have some decisions to be made. I would like something that looks like a refrigerator.  The 320s doesn’t leave too many options for 12v coolers, especially with about 18.5” depth to work with and limited width and I do want a fridge, anyway. I wonder how long the isotherm Cruise 65 would run on an inexpensive Lifepo4 200amps battery. I was looking at Battleborn batteries and I might rethink that and consider a more affordable Lifepo battery.  Your idea of using a more affordable option is a good idea.  I am just frustrated that I am unable to have a 3 way. It would have been easier so that I would not have to deal with a battery change and solar. Thank you for your ideas. I am wondering what 200w solar suitcase you have. I have a Zamp plug and a 75w Zamp solar suitcase. It is very heavy! I prefer not to have something that heavy. The Zamp has an attached controller. I would need to understand more about your solar option. It might not be as heavy. Again, thank you for your ideas. 

MuttonChops

While the N180.3 is no longer in production lots of RV/Boat Repair Parts site still have replacement part stock.  So it still might be possible to give your yr-2014 new life.

It might also be possible to mount a small 3-Way like the SMAD 2.1 cuft (see Amazon) in the N180.3 space - - - some cabinet mods would be required.

SMAD 2.1

AnOldUR

Alfiris2 said:

I am wondering what 200w solar suitcase you have.

I have been successfully using a 100W Renogy suitcase, but just purchased a 200W Vevor from Home Depot. I haven't had the chance to use it yet, but am looking forward to the shorter charging time and more compact size and weight.

If you haven't already, you may want to research the differences between a 3-way absorption fridge compared to a 12V compressor model. My wife was very frustrated with the 3-way that came in our T@B. Too many times it either froze things like eggs and lettuce or had us questioning if meats were staying at food safe temperatures. The absorption fridge was too dependent on ambient temperatures where our compressor model holds steady regardless of the outside or cabin temperature. Another plus is that it can be run while in transit without the dangers of traveling with propane on or the fear of draining the battery.

pthomas745

Who is telling you that "repair parts are no longer available?"  Plenty of vendors still have parts.  Depending on what exactly is happening with your fridge, it may be easier than you think.

https://rvfridgeguys.com/norcold-thermistors/

https://pdxrvwholesale.com/t/norcold-refrigerator-parts?page=1

Not saying any of these things are easy, but the parts are available, and the group here has a ton of info on "how to".  I replaced my "gas valve" and thermistor a couple of years ago and hope to extend my 2017's 3 way fridge for a while.  But, in the meantime, I also carry a small 12V fridge.  After seeing how well the 12V portable fridge works, I won't miss the Norcold when it does finally give out.  Even without "cooling", the Norcold box is a fairly decent "cooler" and storage area.

What do you think is wrong with your fridge?

Alfiris2

I think that it is the control module. I will have to get more information from the camper repair place. I live in Massachusetts. I tried ordering a thermocouple from rvfridgepartsdirect.com back in October and I never received it. They did not respond to emails, text messages, phone calls and chat options. I had ordered it just because it seemed to be a common problem. It never came in and I requested reimbursement from PayPal. I will have to look into the places that you mentioned. I will update when I find out more information. 

Mickerly

You may find the DC refrigerator is actually better than the older absorption refrigerator. If you can move around inside the trailer, it is level enough. You may operate the refrigerator en route, to include while refueling as there is no open flame. On max cold, they use about 3 to 4amp per hour; significantly less power than a 3-way on electric power. Plus, you won't be on max cold, even storing ice cream. They cool significantly faster. Preparing for a trip takes 2 hours rather than over night to cool down. The only advantage of the absorption refrigerator is the ability, in some conditions, to use propane for cooling.

If you want a to replace or repair the old one, Norcold doesn't produce them any more, but there are still parts in the supply chain. That was a popular refrigerator in boats, slid-in campers and small trailers. Unless it is an electric part, most of the service is the "remove, clean, replace and adjust" kind of service. A qualified repair person will have the skills for the repair and the contacts for the parts.

Alfiris2

Thanks everyone for your input!  It gives me options to look into. I may get used to the idea of using a two way fridge and purchase an affordable lifepo4 battery.  I will try to update this group when I decide to go through with one of the options. 

Homebodyatheart

You’re getting great advice here. Just a FYI, you can buy very lightweight solar panels. I am always looking at lighter weight gear and bought the 120w ACOPower folding tri-panel solar setup. I carry it for backup power if needed. My favorite feature, other than it’s simple to use, is that it weighs just under 8 pounds and fits under the rear seat on my 2017 320S. There are many more options to buy now than when I bought this. Good luck with your journey! 

Alfiris2

Thanks for the information on Acopower. I like that it is lightweight, too!  

BrianR

Just another fan of the 12v option. I removed my 180 and replaced it with a 50l Dometic model. It has the same interior volume of the 180 with a bonus freezer. The consistent cooling is a huge bonus compared to the absorption style fridge. The efficiency of the unit will surprise you. I am running a 120 a/h lead acid at the moment and it does fine for weekend/4 day trips. Longer requires solar. I have a 180w suitcase panel with a built in controller. This season I plan on adding more battery and at the same time reducing the propane tank size. We don't need a 20lb tank in the tub. Pros and cons to every set up.

Alfiris2

Hi Brian. I could not find the Dometic 50I. Do you have the full model information?  I am wondering if you have a T@b 320s or css.  I am thinking that the Dometic fridge would stick out because the depth is more than the 180.3 Norcold. Any info would be great. 

Alfiris2

I was thinking that the Dometic CRX pro 65 would be too deep, but the 50 seems like it would fit in the 2018 T@b 320s boondock. Thanks for the idea if this is what you were referring to!

Mickerly

The older CSS come with a DC refrigerator. Because of the way the hatch opens, the refrigerator can't be as tall at the one you have in your non-CS. Our DC refrigerator is deeper inside, so we have the same storage space as your old refrigerator.

BrianR

Alfiris2 said:

Hi Brian. I could not find the Dometic 50I. Do you have the full model information?  I am wondering if you have a T@b 320s or css.  I am thinking that the Dometic fridge would stick out because the depth is more than the 180.3 Norcold. Any info would be great. 

Mine is an older used model but the CRX 50 I believe is the new model. I'll attempt to attach a picture. I have a 2020 320. I did the mod myself and have since changed a few things that have helped air flow.

Alfiris2

Thank you for the information. You did a good job with the woodwork.  

BrianR

Alfiris2 said:

Thank you for the information. You did a good job with the woodwork.  

Thanks. I had some hardwood flooring hanging around that was close but not perfect so repurposed it. It's a job to get the 180 out but then it's a blank canvas really.

There are other threads about other models that fit in the space. As you can see I have room on the right if I decide to get a larger model in the future. Most models have similar depth measurements but get wider. For now, for two, this is great.

Post trip last summer I have also opened up one of the OG vents to allow more air flow when set up. The temperature stability of the 12v over the 3-way is worth the effort in my opinion.  

Alfiris2

Thanks for sharing your experience.