Bed Slats for my T@B S Max

bgualtieri

Nicely done, db. We use that ikea rug too - fits the space in front of the kitchen counter too.

Ratkity

Oooo, I need that rug. I like your slat storage solution. I currently keep the bed made, but I absolutely love the table ideas people have created and....... can't.resist.new.mod.....resistance is futile.

Ramrod

Great idea. Can you once again discuss how you attached the rails? Thanks!

db_cooper

Ramrod said:

Great idea. Can you once again discuss how you attached the rails? Thanks!

I was going to bolt them at first,  but there's stuff in the way of some spots, so I just went with wood screws, 5 per side.  I pre-drilled and countersunk the heads.   It's plenty solid.

Ramrod

Ramrod

Mine are done. Thanks to all of you. Question: what is the purpose of straping the slats with the flat bungee cord?

Pop-T@B

The bungee cord holds them all together in my storage area so the don't slide around. If you look at the first page of my post you can see how I store them.  

lykopis33

Thank you to everyone

lykopis33

First mod done.  My first foray into woodworking so I think I read these posts 10 times to not miss anything.  It only took one trip with original table to know I wanted it gone.  It made a good workbench though

jkjenn

Question on the rails. Are you simply screwing them with wood screws?   Has anyone reinforced them on the inside? It seems like the weight could cause the base unit façade to break. I know people have done these for years. Has anyone heard of a mishap?

lykopis33

Wood screws are 1-3/4" and go through face into box frame.  Put 5 on each side

jschemel

please clarify this for me - when you replace the table with slats it seems like you also replace (upgrade) the rails for the slats? The rails that currently support the table when in down position aren't strong enough to support slats? 

jkjenn

jschemel said:

please clarify this for me - when you replace the table with slats it seems like you also replace (upgrade) the rails for the slats? The rails that currently support the table when in down position aren't strong enough to support slats? 

Rails are not OEM, they are user added. With the table, no rails are needed.

jkjenn

lykopis33 said:

Wood screws are 1-3/4" and go through face into box frame.  Put 5 on each side

Thanks, that makes sense.

DougandMia

jschemel said:

please clarify this for me - when you replace the table with slats it seems like you also replace (upgrade) the rails for the slats? The rails that currently support the table when in down position aren't strong enough to support slats? 

Only the Clamshell uses the rails for the table. Models with the back bench seat do not require them.

TaB2go

  Rlethbri said:

Wow! SO great, I've got to get this for mine.  We don't like that table and we have a small roll up camping table we can use instead.  Thanks for the info!!

We have also decided to replace the standard T@B table and use slats.  Have replaced the original table with a very durable but lightweight folding table made by Lifetime Products. Purchased from Home Depot on line with free shipping to our local store for pickup.  It measures 30"x20" with three different height settings up to 28". Item #28240(almond) or 28241(White). Very reasonably priced and when folded fits nicely between the outside bathroom wall and toilet for nighttime storage.  Plenty of room for eating, playing cards ect.      Edith

SusanB

SO here  is another idea for the table. we lived in out T@b for 9months last year and using the table as the bed support meant it eventually broke. We have got a new table and I am installing rails to support the table top in the down position, just as you would slats. We like the table, living in the NW we are inside on rainy days and the table is great for 2 people to sit with laptops and for 4 to have dinner around. Also in the future because I mind might change I can just lay slats onto the exsisting rails that I installed. I will post pics once the project is complete.

hunter99

I did want to ask, I don't have a t@b so I do not know. Since the stock table fits teh hole, could you put rails in to support that table? I know from reading that the legs get in the way. What about one of those pole mounts I have seen in other RV's. The one I saw did that with the rails and just pulled the pole out when the dinette was converted to a bed. Again, just asking. I have sat in a t@b several time and the only issue I saw was the legs are in the way.

Dunno, I am seriously asking.

Michigan_Mike

hunter99 said:

I did want to ask, I don't have a t@b so I do not know. Since the stock table fits teh hole, could you put rails in to support that table? I know from reading that the legs get in the way. What about one of those pole mounts I have seen in other RV's. The one I saw did that with the rails and just pulled the pole out when the dinette was converted to a bed. Again, just asking. I have sat in a t@b several time and the only issue I saw was the legs are in the way.

Dunno, I am seriously asking.

That should be doable and the only thing you'd have to do would be to remove the steel table base and install the adapter under the table and on the floor to accommodate the table base tube (as shown below).  

hunter99

I have that in my t@g currently. I can tell you it looks, and acts, similar to plywood. You can anchor into it without an issue. When I drilled a 3" hole through the side wall it cuts just like wood and foam would. 

Anyway, I am probably a couple of years away from a t@b as it is. I just ask questions and keep them logged in a notepad on my computer. I already have a list of mods for a custom order or to do myself. 

SusanB

I had to get a new table base after just 9 months of living in the camper. With the table down for King Size bed mode, the base was not strong enough to support a persons knee leaning on one side of the table as we climbed into bed. The table would rock. We are not big people either. I'm hoping that rails under the table in the down position will eliminate the rocking of the table due to uneven weight being applied to it.

Hans111

Really well done!
I'd like to know how the rails are attached? Wood screws through the back? Any glue or specialty fasteners? Thanks for the great documentation.

Pop-T@B

I used 5-11/4" wood screws per side, I put th in from the backside so they would not show. I did not use any glue

suewernersbach

how do you work it (the table)? It was up and outside when I got to the dealer. He put it down and I didn't see him do it.

Vagabonds

There is a spring on the front of the tab (mine has a little yellow plastic nub on it); push it to the side to release, then carefully pull the table towards you and down.  To put the table up put your foot on the bottom and push the table up and away from you (there is no spring release when putting table up).

DeeDee

Completed our first upgrade. Added walnut (a little mid century contrast) slat rails. Routed out the bottom to fully expose the heat vents and routed strap slots incase we want to secure items during travel.

jctangney

Two questions:

1. Why slats vs. a solid rectangular board?

2. Any concern about cutting ventilation above the propane/CO monitor?

Just completed our first big trip with our T@B and this is something we will go with as well. We left the table down the entire trip, and used the small $15 table from Wal-Mart. Doing this will shed a little weight and give some extra room under the bed for storage!

lara9209

jctangney said:

Two questions:

1. Why slats vs. a solid rectangular board?

2. Any concern about cutting ventilation above the propane/CO monitor?

Just completed our first big trip with our T@B and this is something we will go with as well. We left the table down the entire trip, and used the small $15 table from Wal-Mart. Doing this will shed a little weight and give some extra room under the bed for storage!

1)  the slats vs board for us was simply the ability to store the slats out of the way when the bed is put away vs trying to figure out what to do with a big piece of rectangular board.
2)  we debated the heat ... we drilled a series of 1/2" holes in our wood where the vent is to allow it out.  Since there is a wooden frame around the heater that directs the heat up, we felt the heat would rise and easily work it's way out the holes as it would have no where else to go.  I like that others used the router to clear out of the way for the heater ... but we didn't have one available.

We just did our set up and are heading out for the Redwoods this weekend ... so will see how we do.  We bought the small TV tray table that people have spoken about from Home Depot ... but quite honestly, unless it's raining or freezing ... my preference is to eat out side whenever possible!  

Hope that helps.
Lisa

jctangney

lara9209, thanks for the reply, After looking at the size of the opening, I agree a roughly 29 x 32 inch board would be difficult to find a place to store. I am not intending on blocking the slot for heat, I was wondering about ventilation above the Propane / Carbon Monoxide sensor. However, based on the number of people that appear to have already gone with slats, it appears that is not an issue. Actually having a friend cut/finish the boards for me as he has a big workshop and loves this kind of project. We will then take him and his wife out to dinner as payment!

Even though I do not like shopping at Wal-Mart, I did get their small $15.00 table and it does work very well!

mash2

I did a 20 X 29.5 inch board (for the laguna table) and a separate 12 X 29.5 other board that covers the bed slat area.  Either use the 12 X 29.5 board as a privacy screen by the door, or set it on the bench over the electrical area (under the cushion).