SOLAR - Suitcases, Self Contained

Nomad

Here ya go folks...No config your own please...Standard buy-em, set-em up talk.

mickietucs

Thanks for putting me back on track

Those who have a suitcase solar set up --- how do you secure it (we all know if the dirty little thieves want something, they'll find a way) but perhaps you can give suggestions to what might be best. Galvanized big a*$ chain? Is that stronger than those wired/coated bike type chains?

T@Balong

I've used the coated wire bike type cable with a standard padlock.   So far I've only used it in state/provincial or national parks in the States and in Canada.   No problems so far.

Normfun

When I deploy my portable solar suitcase I use a bike cable lock to help out stay put. Usually the panels on the roof are more than enough solar though. 

Nomad

I've got a 30 ft carbon cable - pain in the butt ... Only time I use it is in the boonies. Haven't seen anyone secure their solar in a campground.
I emailed Zamp (2-3 months ago) that they need to figure out some kind of security connection - They responded that they were looking into it.

Tabaz

Just received my Zamp 200W on Friday. Was thinking of using the tongue safety chain. Really no secure place on the Zamp to attach any chain or cable. The Zamp legs can be easily torn off by a bad guy.

Nomad

Yep, the legs aren't real secure - About the only place to do it is through the handle.
When secured (both solar & gen), I secure the carbon cables to one of the four corner handles. Allows for flexibility for sun and wind direction (exhaust).

Michigan_Mike

You could drill a hole through the panel frame and use that as a place for a padlock.  My 80 watt Zamp had a hole in it and that is what I do,  I have secured mine to the trailer frame and have also anchored it to a tree before too.  Bottom line here is that regardless of what you do, anyone who is hell bent on election of getting your panel is going to rip you off, even if it means damaging the panel.  

For the most part locks just keep honest people honest and to date I have never had an issue with leaving my panel when traveling or leaving the campsite on small site seeing ventures.  And if you practice "out of sight, out of mind" when setting these things up, that helps too.    

RZRBUG

My Renogy 100W suitcase came today.  There were no instruction, but I think I can figure it out.  Both the negative and positive connectors were labeled positive, but since that's obvious I can figure that one out.  It's important because it came with alligator clips only and I intend to use the 12V plug that I already have installed on my battery/LP cover to connect it.  Now if that new battery would just get here.

Nomad

RZRBUG - Feel sorry for folks that won't be able to figure it out.

Verna

With all of us on here, Larry, we'll give you so many suggestions your head will spin

Ratkity

My panel came with MC4 connectors (if yours came with these) and read "the male MC4 connector is associated with the positive lead and the female connector is associated with the negative lead. This may not always be the case, so it's always a good idea to look at the markings on the junction box or test the polarity with a digital volt meter." as per instructions I found on MC4 connectors on http://www.solar-electric.com/how-to-use-mc4-connectors-cables.html/.  I just used their instructions, I haven't purchased anything from them. I'm glad you figured it out RZ!! When in doubt, I always use the meter.

edit: Congratz on your new suitcase!!

RZRBUG

OK.  First question.  I found a manual online.  On the first page it says, "NEVER connect the solar panel array to the controller without a battery.  Battery must be connected first."  Well, the controller is hard-wired to the panel.  Now what?

Nomad

Sounds suspicious - The Zamps are hard wired also.
When not connected to the Zamp port (battery) it shows an error code on the display until you connect it.

Ratkity

I'm with PXL, I'm not sure about that information. I have fuses out of the solar array to the controller and from the controller to the battery. I wonder if they are concerned about frying the controller electronics? Most people don't bother with additional fuses, but I work on the precautionary principle and it's overkill. Curious.

jkjenn

Pretty much all solar controllers say that. They probably still recommend that, even though they hard wire it. The key, is, nit to aim it at the sun until you have connected it to the battery.

Nomad

I aim it all the time before I plug in - It's the natural thing to do as you need to unpack/unfold to get at the cable with a suitcase. 15 months, daily use, no problems.

RZRBUG

Well, I emailed Renogy's customer service and got an almost immediate reply--pleasantly surprised.  Here's what they said:

Thank you for contacting Renogy.

In effort to go green, we are actually not printing out the manual.

I will; however, ask my shipping department to print out a manual for you and ship it out.

If you connect your panels before connecting your battery, it can damage your charge controller, and it will not turn on.

With this suitcase they set up should be done with the panels facing down, where no sun hits the panel, and just be cautious with the leads.

I’m not sure if it makes sense, but a technician would be able to better explain it to you. If you like you can email them at techsupport@renogy.com

Based on this, I suppose I will be cautious with it before connecting, maybe even shield it with a blanket or something until it is connected.  Keep in mind that this may not apply to all controllers, but may be specific to the one with this kit.

Nomad

Glad I bought a Zamp ;-). ;-)
Now that is really stupid that they don't send instructions when they consider those setup instructions critical.

jkjenn

RZRBUG said:

Well, I emailed Renogy's customer service and got an almost immediate reply--pleasantly surprised.  Here's what they said:

Thank you for contacting Renogy.

In effort to go green, we are actually not printing out the manual.

I will; however, ask my shipping department to print out a manual for you and ship it out.

If you connect your panels before connecting your battery, it can damage your charge controller, and it will not turn on.

With this suitcase they set up should be done with the panels facing down, where no sun hits the panel, and just be cautious with the leads.

I’m not sure if it makes sense, but a technician would be able to better explain it to you. If you like you can email them at techsupport@renogy.com

Based on this, I suppose I will be cautious with it before connecting, maybe even shield it with a blanket or something until it is connected.  Keep in mind that this may not apply to all controllers, but may be specific to the one with this kit.

Larry, not facing the sun during set up is a common instruction for solar products. I don't think you need to shield, just face away.

RZRBUG

PXLated said:

Glad I bought a Zamp ;-). ;-)
Now that is really stupid that they don't send instructions when they consider those setup instructions critical.

The absence of a manual would be OK, IF they had just enclosed a note giving the web address where it could be located and that it should be read before operating.

jkjenn said:

Larry, not facing the sun during set up is a common instruction for solar products. I don't think you need to shield, just face away.

Actually, this has some common sense to it.  Any sensitive electrical instrument needs to be protected from a jolt, unless one is built in.  It is the reason the converter in the T@B has a delay when being connected to shore power, and the reason the Progressive surge protectors have a delay before letting power pass through it.  Of course, the stock controller on this model Renogy does not have the built-in delay as a matter of economics.  I assume the more expensive controllers have the built-in delay.

Nomad

If you have to get out your quilt and cover it (or lay it face down in the dirt) every time you set up, that's a real big pain in the rear. Haven't ever seen anyone do that - I know I won't be. 500+ days of not doing it with no problems.

Verna

I never did protect it from the sun when I plugged my 80 watt in last summer. It would be rough turning around a 200 watt....maybe I should read the directions .....

RZRBUG

I doubt that I'll be covering mine up or laying them face down, but will wait until plugged in before facing directly toward the sun.  I don't see much difference in effort between positioning then plugging in or plugging in then positioning.

Nomad

Whatever makes one feel comfortable :-)

Ratkity

RZRBUG said:

jkjenn said:

Larry, not facing the sun during set up is a common instruction for solar products. I don't think you need to shield, just face away.

Actually, this has some common sense to it.  Any sensitive electrical instrument needs to be protected from a jolt, unless one is built in.  It is the reason the converter in the T@B has a delay when being connected to shore power, and the reason the Progressive surge protectors have a delay before letting power pass through it.  Of course, the stock controller on this model Renogy does not have the built-in delay as a matter of economics.  I assume the more expensive controllers have the built-in delay.

RZ, makes some sense to me. I *did* notice the delay when my Progressive Industries surge protector clicked in for the first time. When I plugged in the electric after the install, I thought for a second that I didn't install it correctly, then *click* it was on and the readout was fine. Because I have the worst luck with electronics (battery operated watches run fast, I have a knack for being able to crash a computer in a few keystrokes), I usually meter and test leads, add more fuses than most people deem necessary and keep my fingers crossed.  

Ratkity

I was just thinking.... (dangerous, I know):

Based on RZ's Renogy's answer, it wouldn't matter what was on the "controlled" end of the solar output unless somehow the battery resistance when connected to the controller is part of how the installed controller functions. Does that make sense to anyone?

The idea to not open panels suddenly as to not to overload any controller with a high voltage surge makes sense; therefore, a fuse may be in order, but having a battery or nothing at all on the output end of the controller doesn't make any sense to me, especially when the MC4 connectors or SAE ones are designed for weather resistance and safety.

Did I misread the intent of instructions? 

JustJohn

It is very simple to hook up the Renogy panels befor you remove them from th case..just unzip the case, open the panels in the case and hook up. No sun until you lean the panel back. Takes about one minute to hook up.

RZRBUG

JustJohn said:

It is very simple to hook up the Renogy panels befor you remove them from th case..just unzip the case, open the panels in the case and hook up. No sun until you lean the panel back. Takes about one minute to hook up.

Nomad

It's not the hookup (before/after) - of course that's easy, just a plug in.
It's just easier to move a folded, latched suitcase by the handle than an open, ungainly one whether solar or clothes. :-)

Nomad

How far are you planning on moving that unlocked, plugged-in suitcase? If set up relatively close to the plug, no big deal. Right now though, I'm tucked in under some trees so mine panels are 35 feet away - had to carry it under a low leaning limb and over to the river bank for full sun all day.