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I have no power when relying on battery only?

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  • TonydjdTonydjd Member Posts: 111
    Yea Bob he put his tester on ground he used copper from trailer frame. (That's not to say that's not getting a good ground from battery he's still learning) and then he checked hot lead coming in. I spoke with him over the phone he's now checking for hot at junction box below trailer to see if he has hot there.  Tried explaining connect test light to battery negative then look for hot lead in junction box. Then check again to see if ground in junction box is good. Again he is a great guy who is learning.
    Tony D
    Central,Fl
    2015 T@B Max-S


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  • NomadNomad Member Posts: 7,209
    Ya and being a designer I think everyone should be able to draw a straight line - Ain't gonna happen.
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  • RatkityRatkity Member Posts: 3,770
    edited May 2016
    I though Nature abhorred straight lines? That's my story and I'm sticking to it (says while drawing pen and ink). :)

    Oh.. topic.. 

    Best of luck prplx!! Keep us updated - I'm hoping the fix isn't a new converter. 
    2017 820R Retro Toy Hauler from 2015 Tabitha T@B from 2009 Reverse LG Teardrop (but a T@Bluver at heart)
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  • NomadNomad Member Posts: 7,209
    Anyone that still has a pen and ink can certainly draw a straight line. Probably a decent circle too. :-)
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  • prplxprplx Member Posts: 29
    ST_Bob said:
    prplx said:

    I looked inside the junction box yestreday looking for a fuse and did not see one. Everything looked fine in it but i didnt  look very carefuly as i was only trying to find a fuse.  I might look again.  Tony sugessted i test the red wire in the converter box.  Nothing.  So at least it looks like the prob is not the converter...
    How do you know the red wire was dead?  Where did you place the negative probe on your meter?  I see no obvious negative terminal in the converter pictures you posted.  The ground should be measured at the large silver grounding block with the white wire in it just below the 12 volt fuses.  The big Yellow wire is 12 volts from the converter and feeds the top of all 6 fuses.  If the power is coming in on the red wire from the battery and the negative from the battery is also tied to the ground block then you should see 12 volts on that red wire.  If not - there has to be a breaker or fuse somewhere in the red wire between the battery and the converter.
    I will admit i am an electricity illetrate. I put the red end of my tester on top of the red wire connection, and the black on any metal part i could find, including the copper wire you see on the bottom right...  The fuse theory is interesting, i will switch them tomorrow and see.  But to my knowledge, the 1 amp fuse on the far left is not burnt or tripped or whatever.

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  • jkjennjkjenn Member Posts: 6,398
    edited May 2016
    I can finally draw a straight line with the new ruler in the new build of Windows 10:

    https://youtu.be/HoGqSW5jqHA?t=1m29s

    2021 T@b 320 Boondock "Mattie Ross" | 2021 T@b Nights: 239 | Total nights in a T@b 455 | 2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee L Overland | T@b owner since 2014

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  • jkjennjkjenn Member Posts: 6,398
    There is no shame for taking it into a dealer or repair place, too.

    2021 T@b 320 Boondock "Mattie Ross" | 2021 T@b Nights: 239 | Total nights in a T@b 455 | 2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee L Overland | T@b owner since 2014

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  • RatkityRatkity Member Posts: 3,770
    PXLated said:
    Anyone that still has a pen and ink can certainly draw a straight line. Probably a decent circle too. :-)
    A old cartographer friend of mine accused me of using a coin to draw a circle when I was doodling in a very boring meeting. Smoke and mirrors, my friend, smoke and mirrors! 

    prplx - there is a certain joy in figuring out these things yourself, but the prior owner(s) seem to have mucked things up pretty good there. If you have the time and determination, I'll cheer you on. Just know, there's no penalty in T@B U for asking for professional help (for your electrical problem too!). :)  
    2017 820R Retro Toy Hauler from 2015 Tabitha T@B from 2009 Reverse LG Teardrop (but a T@Bluver at heart)
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  • PhotomomPhotomom Member Posts: 2,217
    I don't get the feeling you're 100% sure the fuses are good. Before swapping them around you should be sure they're actually good. How have you been testing them?
    John and Henrietta, Late 2016 T@B S Max in Western New York
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  • PhotomomPhotomom Member Posts: 2,217
    I should also mention that if your trailer is plugged in to an A/C outlet there is 120 volts present in the controller. If you touch the wrong thing you could get a nasty shock or much worse. Please be careful!
    John and Henrietta, Late 2016 T@B S Max in Western New York
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  • prplxprplx Member Posts: 29
    edited May 2016
    I made sure the trailer was unplugged from the AC before playing in that box, but thanks for the reminder!

    I made some calls to bring the trailer at an RV place tomorrow to have this sorted out.  So if the fuse change suggested by ST_Bob, don't work, then the RV place will hopefuly fix it tomorrow.  I don't have a problem bringing it there.  This whole adventure has been fun, and I certainly learned a ton of stuff about the electrical part of my new trailer thanks to many of you.  If the electric shuts down in the futur, I'll have a pretty good idea of what to check first.

    UPDATE: I switched the fuse around, putting the 30 where it should be, then the three 15, the the 5 instead of the 1.  Still no lights or heating or anything, but!  Unpon closer inspection, the 1 amp fuse is blown, which should come as no surprise I guess.  So I am leaving to guess the fuse were wrongly switched, then the 1 amp fuse bloew up, and the secondary hidden fuse too.  I will leave it to the RV garage to find that mysterious hidden switch.

    Again, big thanks to all, as I said above, I learned a lot no matter what! 
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  • PhotomomPhotomom Member Posts: 2,217
    Please let us know what they find. (Won't be surprised if they offer a nice shiny new one!)
    John and Henrietta, Late 2016 T@B S Max in Western New York
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  • ChanWChanW Member Posts: 3,161
    If you find the inline circuit breaker that mash2 mentioned, when you take it out you can test it with an ohmmeter (multimeter or DMM). Or ask them to test it at the parts store. If you don't have continuity, it's bad.
    mash2 said:
    The screwed in box under the trailer has a red rubber cover, right?  This is the an inline circuit breaker for the older model (mine's an '06).
    Might want to start by making sure the contacts on the breaker are good.  Try cleaning contacts and tightening the breaker bolt connections.  

    However, it is possible that the inline circuit breaker has gone bad (Yahoo group cites this as common issue.  If cleaning and checking connection doesn't help, consider replacing the inline cirucuit breaker.    It is an automotive breaker that should be available at an auto supply store.  I'd remove and take into auto zone or other parts store...)

    I believe the inline circuit breaker serves the purpose of the more modern T@N fuse.    

    Chan  -  near Buffalo NY
    2014 S Maxx
    2011 Tacoma 4cyl ... edit: 2022 Tacoma 6cyl - oh yeah! 

     A_Little_T@b'll_Do_Ya
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  • irvingjirvingj Member Posts: 335
    MIne is also a 2004 Dutchmen version. Unfortunately, it's still in storage, but coming out soon. If you haven't yet figured it out, I'll compare it to mine. Sorry I could be of no other help -- just saw this thread!

    ST_Bob-- as usual, your descriptions & advice are great, a pleasure to read! (You a teacher, too?)
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  • prplxprplx Member Posts: 29
    edited May 2016
    Brought the Tab to an RV place today.  He said he'll look into it this afternoon.  Got a call on my way home about 30 minutes later: problem fixed!  Oh...  So I turned around and went to pick it up.  So, after spending hours under the trailer looking for the extra switch, doube checking every switch I could find, etc etc, the culprit was...



    Not the battery itself, but both connectors were corroded and no longer working.  They changed both and voilà!  Works like new.  I also had them install the additional switch that protects the converter from a short circuit.  Again, a big thanks to all, I learn tons of stuff.  Special shout out to St_Bob for his fuse observation, without it, everything would have probably bust on the first try, and to Tonydjd who spent some time on the phone with me trying to figure this out.

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  • jkjennjkjenn Member Posts: 6,398
    Awesome!

    2021 T@b 320 Boondock "Mattie Ross" | 2021 T@b Nights: 239 | Total nights in a T@b 455 | 2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee L Overland | T@b owner since 2014

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  • TonydjdTonydjd Member Posts: 111
    Great deal something simple.  B)
    Tony D
    Central,Fl
    2015 T@B Max-S


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  • irvingjirvingj Member Posts: 335
    Yes, we like simple! Glad you're up & running again. And, it never hurts to learn more!
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  • prplxprplx Member Posts: 29
    irvingj , on your 2004, do you have this hitch on your 2004? If so, the little hole I am pointing, is it to unlock the break when you back it up, or to lock the hitch on the ball? I am missing the key that would go in there.  Right now I can't lock the hitch on the ball, which is illegal here...






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  • prplxprplx Member Posts: 29
    ok, I found out it is the lock for the hitch, and I even found one at the local Tab dealer!  So now I am finally all set to go!
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  • irvingjirvingj Member Posts: 335
    Yes, I have the identical hitch, made by AL-KO.

    OK, it looks like you figured it out.

    On mine (which I assume is the same as yours), there is NO reverse lock-up feature that many trailers' surge brakes have. (Have you seen any of the videos showing someone launching a boat, backing up repeatedly, trying to release the brakes, only to end up with the TV in the water up to its knees??) (Oops-- they forgot to release the brakes by pulling the "trigger"! -- "OK, Where's the trigger??")

    Well, OK, there IS a reverse lock-up on AL-KO surge brakes, but it automatically releases with sustained pressure in reverse by the TV.

    With this AL-KO surge brake, all you have to do is back up and they'll release by themselves, no other action required, as long as the internals are working properly.  That's one of the of the reasons I like this system, which is purely mechanical (no electric, no hydraulic) -- and in my experience, it has worked quite well.

    Just be sure the actuator rod tension is set properly so the brakes will activate when the tongue is pushed forward as the TV is slowed (and that black rubber bellows becomes compressed as the trailer surges forward).

    Adjusting the brake shoes is the same as any "old" car-- poke a screwdriver into the hole on the inside of the wheel and lever the star wheel until you feel some tension (sticking/dragging) while spinning the wheel when the wheel is jacked up and able to spin freely.

    My suggestion: first, adjust the brake shoes on each wheel as described above (parking brake OFF), then adjust the long actuator rod (threaded linkage) so the parking brake locks it up when you pull up on that lever.  You should feel a fair amount of tension (and a "pop") when you pull up on the parking brake lever, but it shouldn't break your arms when you do so.

    Hope this helps!
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  • TABakerTABaker Member Posts: 432
    Sorry, Verna, just saw your tag.  I've been in China visiting a new grandson.
    Crystal & Daisy, a yellow 2007 T@B Q previously towed by a 2008 Jeep Liberty, and currently towed by a 2016 RAM 1500.

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  • VernaVerna Member Posts: 6,878
    TABaker said:
    Sorry, Verna, just saw your tag.  I've been in China visiting a new grandson.
    That's OK, @TABaker. It appears that IrvingJ was able to help. 

    Congrats on the new grandson!
    Verna, Columbus, IN
    2021 T@B 320S  Boondock “The T@B”
    Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
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