Newb ? on plugging in solar

ErieT30

I really couldn't directly find my answer in the forum and actually got more confused.  I have a new 2017 TAB Outback.  Has the solar connector.  Can I just plug the panel in (if i find matching connector) or do I have to have a controller between the panel and Tab connector..... Is it better to just use pinchers on the battery?

jkjenn

ErieT30 said:

I really couldn't directly find my answer in the forum and actually got more confused.  I have a new 2017 TAB Outback.  Has the solar connector.  Can I just plug the panel in (if i find matching connector) or do I have to have a controller between the panel and Tab connector..... Is it better to just use pinchers on the battery?

You absolutely want a controller. Some panels come with a controller builtin, link the Zamp panels.

Nomad

Tell us a little about what panels you have - your setup. There's a bunch of lengthy solar threads we may be able to point you to if we knew more.

ErieT30

Thank you both.  I was looking at this panel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DXYNGA0/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3CPXZQT4Y0AGH&coliid=I14OGEE2CFZULM&psc=1    So if I get a controller do I get a cord from the controller to the connector or just go to the battery with pinchers at that point.   I guess I dont understand what the "prewire" solar is for

Nomad

Don't know anything specific about those panels but according to the diagram, you would need a controller and wire the thing with a fuse or two...



It shows an inverter also but that's not required.
Basically, the panels plug into the controller and the controller gets connected to the battery.

One reason I went with the Zamp, didn't have to pick panels, controllers and mess with connectors/wiring - Unpacked it, plugged it in, set battery type and was done.

Tabaz

Think of the "Zamp Ready" as just a fancy two wire outlet on the side of the propane tub.  One wire goes to the (+) battery terminal while the other goes to the (-). You could simply replace the two ring terminals shown above with battery alligator clips.  I like those 100W lightweight panels!  I have the 200W Zamp and it weighs 45 lbs.

Nomad

It's your own, private, portable weight lifting gym Frank :-)

Tabaz

I agree PXL, but hefting that large, bulky weight gets old real fast (cue "Waa, Waa, Waa").  BUT - this weekend I had my Zamp panels laying flat without the cover in my TV.  Also had my heavy BAL leveler upright next to them (somehow missed that pending disaster).  Drove about 10 feet on a dirt road, heard this loud "crash" from the back.  Looked to see the BAL laying on one of the Zamp panels!  Knew for sure I had just cracked that Zamp panel.  Guess what?  No damage at all to the Zamp panel.  I was stunned.  So as heavy as they are . . .  "They take a beating, and keep on ticking."

Nomad

One time I had wind come up and blow the Zamps over onto rocks - thought the same as you, toast. Nope, not a scratch. I've had wind skid them across the ground but that was the only time they actually tipped over.

Tabaz

PXL - I kept saying "oh no," "oh no," as I got out of the vehicle and opened the rear hatch.  That BAL leveler is a heavy, sharp-edged monster.  Michigan Mike and Verna both secure their Zamp panels at night when winds are forecasted.  I started doing the same this weekend at Coyote Howls.

Nomad

Have only secured mine a couple times but do get them out of the direct wind after that one incident. Use the T@B or TV as a wind break.

Sharon_is_SAM

Erie, just so you know, if you do alter your panel wiring to allow you to plug into the Zamp outlet on the T@B, the negative and positive are reversed as that is how Zamp wires their plugs.  As Outback said, may be easier to use alligator clips.

JustJohn

ErieT30, As PXL said, you will need a charge controller, at least 25 feet of additional cable (this gives you some flexibility in the placement of your panel, unless you are going to permantly mount them to your trailer) and a connector compatible with your zamp plug. Although it seems complicated at first it is actually a pretty simple installation. I would suggest you mount the controller as close as possible to your battery to increase the efficiency of your system, but there are many on this forum that do just fine with the controller mounted on the panel. Also consider a mppt controller that has reverse polarity protection so if you do make a mistake while installing the system it will not damage any of your components.

pthomas745

When I first tried to set  up my Renogy panel and controller to my Outback, I successfully used alligator clips to the battery terminals.  I decided to try the more "elegant" solution of using the Zamp connector.  And that is where things got confusing.  I set my Googler on stun and found this post on the Little Guy forums from Michigan Mike.  If you can understand the hows and whys of the Zamp connector, you are more than halfway there:
http://littleguy.vanillaforums.com/discussion/4885/zamp-solar-panel-connections-explained

And, to answer your original question, you do need a controller.

jgram2

I couldn't find a way to save this thread on the little guy forum so I've copied here ( if it works) so I can add it to my many starred threads. That plus I can really only handle one forum-not a multitask er. This seems like valuable info. Thanks pThomas, and of course, MichiganMike!

Zamp Solar Panel Connections - Explained

Michigan_Mike  Posts: 8,496Administrator

August 2016  edited August 2016 in Electrical/Lighting & Solar Power

I know this has been discussed before here on the forum but wanted to provide some additional information and clarification on Zamp Solar's panel connections as we tend to toss this information around freely and as if everyone on the forum understands it completely and that they have a good grasp of it and understand the pretense of it.  Unfortunately that couldn't be further from the truth and better clarification needs to take place here. 

The bottom line here is that Zamp wires their solar panels in an effort to make them safe to use and in an effort to avoid accidents since the panels do convert sunlight into energy and it is possible for a user to put themselves in series with a solar panel and receive an electrical shock should they become part of the circuit when hooking up and using a solar panel.  This is true whether it is a Zamp solar panel or any solar panel you may be using since they are able to generate energy when in sunlight or for that matter, any ambient light they come into contact with.  



The photo below shows the stock Zamp Solar Port wiring harness that comes on all of the trailer units and is located either on the battery box, sides of some trailers and on the tub of the T@B and T@G trailer units.  This piece wires directly to the trailer battery and as you can see in the photo the positive (+) side (red wire) of this harness is the bare contact terminal, negative (-) side (black wire) is the female part of the solar port.  



In the photo below it shows the style of connector that would be come off the end of the newer Zamp solar panels.  In this photo the positive (+) connector (red wire) is the female style end.  Zamp wires their solar panels in this manner to protect users from accidental shock accidents.  The bare end of the connector shown is the negative (-) terminal (black wire) and this is where some of the confusion comes into play when people discuss the "Battery Tender" brand of trickle charger, as their terminals are wired directly opposite of the Zamp wiring scheme shown below.  




Battery Tender brand trickle charger wiring explained

In the photo below you can see that the Battery Tender units are wired opposite the Zamp solar connections and unless these terminals are wired in reverse you will not be able to charge up your trailer battery if you plug a Battery Tender into the Zamp Solar Port on your trailer.  In other words you would need to do the following with the battery tender trickle charger unit:

1.  Cut the charge wire coming off the back of the Battery Tender unit, reverse the wires and splice them back together.  

2.  Use the clip on style connectors shown just to the right of the tender unit and attach them to your trailer battery when charging the trailer battery.  

Unless you follow the above steps the Battery Tender unit will not charge your trailer battery if the tender is plugged into a Zamp Solar Port and this issue has confused many trailer owners as a result of the way Zamp wires their solar panel wiring harnesses.  



The bottom line here is that Zamp Solar does not wire their solar ports for use with the Battery Tender brand trickle charge units, but only wires them for Zamp Solar equipment and apparatus.  Therein lies the difference and hopefully the above information will help people understand the reasoning behind Zamp Solar's wiring set-ups and provide them with enough knowledge to use a Battery Tender in charging a trailer battery when it has a Zamp Solar connector wired into the trailer and hooked to the battery.   

Mike Smith

Linden, Michigan  

2015 T@B Max S
2016 Chevy Silverado 1500 LTZ

Nomad

Success - Cool

Ratkity

I understand the safety factor for Zamp and agree that the panels immediately start producing current as soon as you open them (in sunlight). My questions is how many people connect a battery charger to 110V before connecting to a battery with the SAE connector? Wouldn't that also be a safety issue? It was just one of those things that make me go hrmmmmm.