Preventing cold air infiltration?

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  • BaylissBayliss Member Posts: 1,357
    edited November 2019
    Here ya go, @rjgors .  There are several photos included in this post, so it took me some time to put this together.  I hope I do not get in trouble with the Administrators, but the photos are all properly sized.

    This post primarily addresses the installation of an EPS vent cover when the stock cover and sidewall opening are larger than the "standard" opening.  Since you also have a vent with no screws, maybe the cover we have is the "new" standard for nüCamp installations.  Regardless of whether the nüCamp cover has screws or does not, I highly recommend that you watch the EPS installation video.  It guides you through each step of the process.  I sent EPS several photos of my installation and they are going to create supplemental instructions on how to deal with a larger sidewall opening, which merely involves adding a couple small brackets. 

    Also, just an FYI.........the EPS cover comes standard in polished aluminum to match the camper's front aluminum rock shield (and aluminum tub, if you have one.)  However, at my request, and at a slightly higher price, EPS made an exception and had the cover powder-coated in black for me.  I waited a little longer to receive the cover, because they sent it to a third party vendor to fulfill my request.  If you would like to order it in black, then call John at EPS (619)-663-5849 and see what he says.

    Below is a photo of the exterior vent cover that was on my 2019 320S Boondock Lite.  It was held against the camper sidewall with two thin strips of double-backed tape and caulk along the top and side edges.



    As demonstrated in the EPS video, use a razor blade to make a thin slice along the caulk lines so that you can remove the cover.  Once you do that, lift up from the bottom edge of the cover and it will easily pull up and away from the exterior sidewall.  You will then be able to use a razor blade or thin putty knife to remove the remaining caulk on the sidewall.  Clean the area around the sidewall opening with some mineral spirits.





    Remove the Danby air conditioner (A/C) from its compartment inside the camper.  You will need a #1 square bit to remove the decorative frame around the front of the A/C.  Watch the EPS video so you see how to remove and reinstall the A/C, but you simply lift it up at the front and pull it out toward you.  Do not unplug the A/C.  The cord is long enough for you to set the A/C on the seating/storage area below the A/C compartment.  I recommend that you remove the seat cushion below the A/C compartment and cover the wood box over your electrical connections box with a towel or blanket.  Set the A/C in that area.

    Here is a photo of the A/C electrical cord.  When you replace the A/C, you will stuff the cord back inside the A/C compartment on the left side of the A/C unit.



    As EPS recommends, vacuum out the A/C compartment.  This will remove any construction debris that might otherwise plug up the A/C drain hole (located at the front right corner of that compartment.)



    Below is the exterior sidewall opening.  Although it looks like I did not line up the measurements as well as I could have, on my camper it is approximately 7 1/2" H x 19 1/2" W.  This is about 1/2" larger in each direction than the EPS frame.



    Here are some photos that provide a comparison of the stock vent inside frame (screened) and the EPS cover inside frame (screened.)  Again, there is about 1/2" difference between the inside frame measurements of the two vent covers, with the nüCamp cover being larger.







    Once I had the stock vent cover removed, I determined that the top and bottom pre-drilled bolt holes on the exterior mounting plate of the EPS cover are 8 1/2" apart (when measured from the center of the top and bottom bolt holes.)  In the photo below, I traced the opening of the lower left bolt hole (red arrow) and measured up 8 1/2".  This revealed that although I could drill the required 3/16"  hole through the camper sidewall to attach the two lower bolts, there was no sidewall to secure the top bolts.  



    Fortunately, EPS has encountered this once or twice in the past, so they had a simple fix.   They sent me four pre-drilled brackets.  Although I only needed two of the brackets, they sent four just in case I needed them.  Initially, I was not clear on how the brackets were to be oriented, but John at EPS was kind enough to make some quick drawings of that and texted them to me.  John was extremely helpful and reassured me that the brackets would solve my installation concerns.



    This is what the vent cut-out looks like from inside the camper.  The two screws on the metal support (light purple arrows) are not part of the vent cover, but rather hold that metal support in place.  However, it appeared to me that the screw on the right might be located in the path of the bolt that I would be inserting through the lower left outside corner of the EPS vent mounting frame.  I was concerned about that, because I would be drilling though that metal support to create a path for the mounting bolt.  To get around that roadblock, since I had a 1/2" of play in the vent opening, I shifted the EPS cover all the way to the left (toward the front of the camper) and that eliminated any conflict.



    The below closeup shows how the upper bracket (red arrow) is installed.  Before attaching the two top brackets, which do not require drilling, I drilled the two lower holes and inserted the provided bolts and attached the washers and nuts (yellow arrow.)

    The upper brackets are designed to pull the EPS mounting frame against the camper sidewall.  IT IS VERY IMPORTANT that you not torque down the bolts too tight.  If over-tightened, you risk bending/damaging the camper sidewall.  The bolts just need to be tight enough to hold the EPS vent cover solidly against the sidewall.  (NOTE:  EPS provides four large washers, locknuts and bolts.  However, because I opted to rest the bottom edge of the EPS (screened) frame on the bottom edge of the camper sidewall opening, that reduced the interior space that would otherwise accommodate the large washer.  Therefore, I used small washers on the two lower bolts.  Although I could have attempted to center the EPS cover within the sidewall opening, I would have risked ending up with a crooked install.  Instead, I opted to take the path of least resistance and let the EPS frame rest on the bottom of the sidewall opening.  Worked out fine.)



    The below photo shows the completed install from inside the A/C compartment.  The green arrow shows the screw I avoided hitting by shifting the EPS mounting frame from outside the camper all the way to the left of the sidewall opening (an approximate 1/2" distance).  Also depicted in this photo is the A/C plug wire and the frame/rails that the Danby A/C rests on.  As demonstrated in the EPS installation video, when you replace the A/C unit, be sure that you lift up slightly on the front of the Danby A/C so that you get the feet at the bottom of it up and over the front section of the metal frame.



    EPS provides a "CAUTION!" sticker to remind you to open the exterior hatch before turning on the A/C.  Nice touch.  Don't forget to close the hatch before you hit the road!  ;)  



    The final task is to apply caulk to the outer edges of the vent cover frame.  I caulked all four sides with white silicone designed for use with exterior doors and windows.  I found some white GE All-Purpose caulk that adheres to fiberglass, so that is what I used.  Adding caulk around the hinge at the top of the vent hatch was tricky (so as to not get caulk in the hinge itself), but not that big of a deal.  



    And there you have it.  A straightforward install with a cool looking, easy to use and very functional vent cover as a reward for your time and effort.  (Greg)

    2019 T@B 320 S Boondock Lite2007 Toyota Tundra 4x4
    (Alde: 3020; Refrig: Isotherm Cruise 65 Eleg; Battery: BB 100Ah LiFePo4; Solar: Renogy 100Ah Suitcase; Victron BMV-712; Pwr Cntr: PD-4135KW2B; EMS: PI-HW30C)
    Greg & Marlene (Tucson, AZ)


  • rjgorsrjgors Member Posts: 41
    Thank you, Greg! Great instructions and pictures. It doesn’t look too bad to do.

    Bob
    Bob
    Richmond, MI

    2019 T@B 320 S
  • CbusguyCbusguy Member Posts: 771
    Not bashing the $300 ac cover.....  I would rather spend the money on something else.   especially when there are $20 DIY solutions available.
    2009 GMC Canyon,   3.7 liter 
    2020 320s Boondock lite, With Lots of mods
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