Norcold frig won't stay lit?

dsatwork

@Michigan_Mike when you get a chance would you post a link to it. Heavy duty can mean anything. Thanks.

jkjenn

Michigan_Mike said:

My ARB performed flawlessly in the  back of my pick up truck! One thing I would like to note about the ARB, that it runs efficiently with a heavy gauge extension cord. I would caution people against using a smaller gauge, inexpensive extension cord as this created issues with my built in inverter in my 2017 Silverado pick up.  I purchased a heavy duty extension cord specifically for my ARB and this has corrected the prior issue  which I attributed to heating of the extension cord. 

Mike, I purchased the one from ARB, is that a sufficient gauge or did you have to go higher?

Verna

 I believe @Michigan_Mike is speaking of the 110V cord he uses between in back seat inverter plug in his Silverado truck and the ARB that he keeps in the bed of the truck. I noticed he had a new 10 gauge (I think) cord being used for that purpose. And I believe he did use a heavier 110V cord inside his T@B tent for the ARB when he removes it from the truck ( meaning 10 gauge). 

I also use a 10 gauge 110V extenstion cord from my back seat ARB to the exterior 110V outlet on the T@B, when I have an e
electric site. 

Michigan_Mike

Verna said:

 I believe @Michigan_Mike is speaking of the 110V cord he uses between in back seat inverter plug in his Silverado truck and the ARB that he keeps in the bed of the truck. I noticed he had a new 10 gauge (I think) cord being used for that purpose. And I believe he did use a heavier 110V cord inside his T@B tent for the ARB when he removes it from the truck ( meaning 10 gauge). 

I also use a 10 gauge 110V extenstion cord from my back seat ARB to the exterior 110V outlet on the T@B, when I have an e
electric site. 

This is the extension cord I purchased.

15' Utilitech extension cord at Lowe's

jkjenn

Ah, I just bought a 10# extension cord this year. I have a 12v outlet in my cargo area in my GC. I so rarely camp with electric any more, I probably won't have a chance to use it while out, but I bring it along, just in case.

Ratkity

There was only one source for a 12V extension cord on Amazon that wasn't 16 or 18g. It took forever to find a 14g, but it was worth it. I use it to reach tires with the compressor and it doesn't get hot (the wire, the connector will always get hot when you run a compressor a long time).

TabberJohn

@drpprmt -- I don't think you need worry about strain on the TV alternator.
Either the alternator is putting out enough volts to keep the T@B battery charged with the frig on 12v or it's not.
Some TVs have a smart controller that senses draw and vary voltage.
Otherwise turn on your headlights as that boosts voltage in many TVs.

The pilot blow out likely occurs due to buffeting gusts at highway speeds and various TV profiles no doubt contribute to turbulence in front of the T@B. 
One thought I had was there is a vent tube above the pilot designed to vent up and out. If airflow were suddenly reversed it would be like blowing out a candle with a straw (pinpoint accuracy - poof!). On the other hand you don't want to block the pilot vent.

We need someone with the blow out problem and a GoPro to mount their camera pointed at the pilot.  Then we'll know better what directions that burst of air is coming from. That could differ based upon speed, turbulence created by your TV, or a passing tractor trailer. Hmm... I guess you'll need two GoPro's. One monitoring the pilot and the other recording the road situation. Then compare the timelines as to when and where the pilot blew out.
Just thinking out loud...

Homebodyatheart

At the nudging of a friend (thank you!) I'm trying the fridge on propane today at home to see how it works. I have the later 2017 TabS with the two side vents.  After reading the manual (something I'm known to not do first thing...) and a number of tries it did light. The manual is very clearly and simply written, just my speed today. Anyway, it's 96' in the shade at home right now, L@dybug is in her shed with the barn doors opened, and hopefully the fridge is cooling. In the meantime I was coached through finding the glycol tank, identifying the water pump and filter, and am enjoying a late lunch.  I will be running the fridge on propane in a few weeks for three days where I will have access to water but no power or spigot at the site. Glad to know things are working! 

ericnliz

  We ALL get by with a little help from our friends!

dsatwork

Well final report: The fridge was having a hard time today in the heat that rose to 103 at times, but never below 95. The fridge hit mid 50s and then 60 and never recovered. I gave up trying to keep it lit and put it on12v for the last few hours of the day. Ended up at 63 degrees but nothing of value left in fridge at the end of the day. Taking it in Saturday for warranty work....I hope to get some things worked out, flame indicator, AC on indicator light and now the pilot won't light with the button.

Dalehelman

Did you light your stove to make sure you have steady gas flow?

dsatwork

Dalehelman said:

Did you light your stove to make sure you have steady gas flow?

Yes dale, the stove works great... @Sandiegogal made some great pasta one night and bean burritos the next.

Ratkity

dsatwork said:

Well final report: The fridge was having a hard time today in the heat that rose to 103 at times, but never below 95. The fridge hit mid 50s and then 60 and never recovered. I gave up trying to keep it lit and put it on12v for the last few hours of the day. Ended up at 63 degrees but nothing of value left in fridge at the end of the day. Taking it in Saturday for warranty work....I hope to get some things worked out, flame indicator, AC on indicator light and now the pilot won't light with the button.

@dsatwork, it sure sounds like the thermocouple is out of alignment or needs to be replaced. One of the things that I haven't seen (or missed) is that a simple battery-operated RV frig fan to move air around the fins worked wonders.

Let us know what the repair folks say! Good luck. I know it must be frustrating. There's no reason that the frig doesn't drop to 40F, especially if you are running the A/C inside (I can't rem if you were). 

dsatwork

@Ratkity only issues have been using 12v or propane when it's hot....AC works fine

Ratkity

@dsatwork, the 12V is a continuous "on", no thermostat. Propane is the most efficient, so it's surprising that AC works fine. It's almost like there's two different issues. When propane doesn't stay lit, it's usually a thermocouple. When 12V doesn't work, it's an electronic board issue or air flow. Come to think of it, it just sounds like a board issue, especially since I looked at your sig and saw it's a 2017! 

Keep us updated!!! Best to you.

Michigan_Mike

dsatwork said:

Well final report: The fridge was having a hard time today in the heat that rose to 103 at times, but never below 95. The fridge hit mid 50s and then 60 and never recovered. I gave up trying to keep it lit and put it on12v for the last few hours of the day. Ended up at 63 degrees but nothing of value left in fridge at the end of the day. Taking it in Saturday for warranty work....I hope to get some things worked out, flame indicator, AC on indicator light and now the pilot won't light with the button.

I had some issues with my Norcold out in Arizona and understand your frustration.  I am guessing that it is more heat related than anything else but here are a few points to ponder and some suggestions I was given that may or may not have resolved things:

• Temperature Control - Try turning the control all the way to the left and back all the way to the right 3-4 times.  I've been told that the unit somehow gets confused in the setting and sometimes this clears the problem up.  I cannot confirm that this does or doesn't work but it's worth a try.
• Air Flow - The Norcold needs to have enough room inside to allow for air flow as units that are chock full of food items has proven to be one of the biggest detriments to efficient operation and cooling according to information Norcold has published.  Keep any food or items away from the cooling fin area and make allowances for air flow (as noted earlier in this thread) to increase efficiency.
• Heat -  I spoke to someone down at uCamp17 and they said they provided more ventilation inside the cabinet to move air in and out of the compartment the Norcold sits inside of and that it did make a difference, that the unit cooled better, etc.   It does seem logical that eliminating heat build up in and around the inside of the cabinet enclosure would make a difference and is something to consider.  
• Shut the Unit Down -  I would consider shutting the unit down for a while too, let it calm down some and try running it again in a day or two and see if it resets if you will and recovers from whatever is ailing it. 

We were at our wits end out in Arizona but I also know that Linda did have the unit packed to the gills with food and perishables and we ended up having to toss some food because the unit seemed to be "stuck in neutral" and was not cooling on propane.  However after taking the Norcold out of service for a while it did snap out of whatever funk it was in and has been cooling effectively/efficiently ever since.  And since your unit is relatively new it could be a defective unit and hopefully they will resolve your issue.  

Good luck!  

Silver320

We have similar temperature issues with our 2017 that dsatwork describes.  We live in Arizona and recently took a two week trip (not our preferred timing but it was a family reunion).  The outside day temps were in the 100's and no matter what we tried the day temps in the fridge were about 65 and night temps were 55.  We were either on shore power or running on 12V while driving (tried propane but it kept blowing out).  We had the fridge packed lightly and without anything too perishable as we realized there was a problem while trying to pre-cool (on power at home and in the shade) and it could only do about a 40 degree drop from ambient.   Anxiously awaiting what dsatwork finds out during the warranty work.

dsatwork

@Silver320 not sure my warranty work will produce any answers about the cooling issues...but I'll tell them what's going on. In hopes they'll check things out. I believe the answer is going to include an auxiliary fan that kicks on at 90 degrees.

ericnliz

@Silver320, @dsatwork, and the rest of you having issues with the fridge...I sincerely hope these issues get resolved for you folks in a timely manner. I sympathize with your frustrations, and hope a quick resolve is in order for you. I was pretty shocked to see no fan at all incorporated with the fridge, or the fridge surround. That area gets pretty warm without the temps hovering around the century mark, much less above the 100* mark. If you can, and are privy to the information, please share the resolution to the cooling issues. Thanks, and best of luck to all of you affected.