I was watching this cool video about the new features on T@B Outback. I was really intrigued to see the option to have solar panels mounted on the roof. But...looking at this video, it appears that there may be a bunch of wiring junk on the roof. Does anyone know anything about this? It looks a bit sloppy.
https://youtu.be/Wz9sEZARyK0?t=132
Comments
2021 T@b 320 Boondock "Mattie Ross" | 2021 T@b Nights: 239 | Total nights in a T@b 455 | 2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee L Overland | T@b owner since 2014
In other discussions I have seen mentions that charging from the TV sometimes can't keep up with the frig running in 12v mode. Apparently the solar panels on the roof allow you to arrive at the site with all the batteries topped off (except after dark, of course).
Regarding the wiring/looks:
Its actually the sleekest looking solar panels I've seen on any set up yet. There are wires associated with every solar set up and these are tied down very nicely. The panels are very thin and you barely notice them on top of the camper. I'm happy with the looks.
Regarding the roof mount:
The disadvantage is that if you park in the shade, you cannot move your panels to the sun. The advantage is that you never ever have to unpack, pack or find a storage place for panels. They also charge while driving a long day in the sun. To me, the advantages outweigh the disadvantage and I'm happy having them on the roof.
Regarding what they will charge:
To be honest, solar is a new world to even the nuCamp people and there are so many variables that its not very straight forward. I have done a lot of boondocking since I got the camper in April. It will not run the A/C. It will not run any 110v outlets (it just charges your battery, you are still using your battery). It will not keep up with your fridge running on battery (sorry, keep it on propane!). But, it WILL keep my laptop charged plugged in all day long if I'm in the sun (I use an inverter in the 12V plug), keep phones and other electrical devices charged, run the TV and DVD player all day.
I'm still finding its limits. While it's not perfect, it offers us something to get off grid and overall I love it. Small, easy to manage, and useful.
Love & Light!
RE: the fridge - a point of clarification for newer folks. there is a huge difference in the battery draw between the 3 way and 2 way fridges. The 3 way draws close to 12 ah where the 2 way draws less than 3 ah. This set-up, assuming you are parked in an area with zero shade, could be sufficient for the 2 way.
Last note. The slightest shadow can significantly impact your solar performance. The fan can cast a shadow. The stock fan, open, might cast the lease, but the Maxx Air and adding the Fantastic Fan cover would both increase the profile of the fan and therefore increase the profile of the shadow. I am not saying that it would totally compromise the value of the panels being mounted and some use so little power that the shadow would not make a difference, but it does have somewhat of an impact.
Some people will, understandably be drawn to the crock pot, or "fix it and forget it" benefit of the mounted solar panels.
2021 T@b 320 Boondock "Mattie Ross" | 2021 T@b Nights: 239 | Total nights in a T@b 455 | 2022 Jeep Grand Cherokee L Overland | T@b owner since 2014
(This is still for confused solar folks).... Battery capacity is an issue if you boondock a lot and there's a lot of threads about adding 2x 6V batteries. Them things are pricey, but if you use the television and dvd player periodically during rainy days (or your laptop or portable DVD player with the same abilities), it's great to have a little extra power to be able to do that. Calculating power needs is the key and *how* you camp and how many days at a time.
Do you really need 2x 6V 68-pound batteries inside that bin? This old lady had a hard time lifting the 48# group 24 into the bin. Can you make do with a group 27? Most importantly, all flooded lead-acid batteries need maintenance. The 6V's are expensive and not maintaining them will kill them quickly, draining your $$.
See? The variables start adding up!! Start simply. Start with a totally charged battery. Flip the disconnect switch (or pull 30A fuse) and use a charger overnight. Don't forget to flip the switch back on (or put the fuse in) before getting on the road.
1. Take your camper out for lots of fun runs at local or near-local campgrounds and use electric only sites.
2. Learn how to use the dump station (if camper is so equipped). Learn how the AC and Alde works to make hot water and the pump.
3. Now go to a campground without electricity. You don't want your battery down below 12.1-12.2V (that's 50% discharge). Get a cheap monitor and see how much power is being used if you take advantage of showers and periodic potty runs at the campground facilities.
4. Do the same as above to see how much voltage you use if you don't use the campground facilities.
That's a good start.
http://tab-rv.vanillaforums.com/discussion/5175/permanent-200-watt-flexible-solar-install
http://tab-rv.vanillaforums.com/discussion/5206/1500-watt-puresine-wave-inverter
TV: 2006 Chevy Avalanche LT Z71 aka: WhiteWolf, or 1972 Chevy Custom10 P/U aka: SnarlingWolf
Spokane, Wa.
Eric aka: Lone Wolf
If we recall correctly you have a 400. Is your solar controller under the bed a Grape Solar device like the one the factory installed in our 400? If so, did you get the information on the Solar app for Android or iPhone? That's what the factory intended although perhaps some dealers are not clued into that. It's what we use and find it exceedingly useful.
You can find the app in the iPhone app store by searching for "solar app nansong zhang". Once you have downloaded the app, you'll need the admin password: 135790123
For the Android app, email support@grapesolar.com and request the app for the Grape Solar 40A Controller.