Are all T@B keys the same?

Slip7

When I was shopping for T@Gs, I noticed the dealer was using the same key for all the trailers he was showing. He mentioned that's how they all come from the factory and you have to order custom locks to have a unique key. Does the same hold true for the T@Bs? I'm assuming it's the same lock model that NuCamp uses regardless of T@B or T@G.

I saw Verna's remote lock post and wondered if I might as well throw it on the upgrade list. I know it's not likely a fellow owner would be poking about in someone's trailer. I'm more concerned about RVs in general and if there are only a few model locks in use on the market. Kind of a peace of mind thing I guess. 

pthomas745

Pretty much, yes, apparently...here are some threads...

https://www.google.com/search?q=tab+keys+the+same+site:tab-rv.vanillacommunity.com&oq=tab+keys+the+same+site:tab-rv.vanillaforums.com&gs_l=psy-ab.12...0.0.0.13880.0.0.0.0.0.0.0.0..0.0....0...1..64.psy-ab..0.0.0....0.WcbyhrcKusw

ericnliz

, Ours & @Homebodyatheart, @Dalehelman's all opened 3 different year T@Bs. Good part is...I KNOW where they live!

Estancio

For decades, all BMW motorcycles in the world could all be started with the same key! Never once heard of any biker stealing another one's BMW. Curious how times change....

Hvtymwiltravel

All I can add is when I was at the factory for some warranty work, they had a new 400 that had been shipped back from the dealer for warranty work.  It was shipped without the keys and Austin could not unlock the door until he had that particular key.   So at that time, for that model it seems as if the key was not universal.

Luckyj

Hum, I might have to stop by my dealer with my kees and start pocking around just to make sure.  

Tabaz

I have a 2016 Outback with key number G345.  Went to a friend's house and tried it on his 2015 T@B.  It opened his doors.  Will be ordering the 900 series lock tomorrow from rvlocksandmore.com tomorrow.  Wow. What an eye opener.

Tabaz

Just confirmed that many manufacturers will order the same keyed lock for their trailers so they don't have to mess with hundreds of different keys.  I just ordered a 900 series replacement lock for my Outback from rvlocksandmore.com.  Best to call in your order if you want extra keys shipped with it.  Very nice people.

Slip7

@tabaz it's this one, right?

http://www.rvlocksandmore.com/LocksKeys/Security-Upgrades/TTL-43900-2006

Tabaz

Slip7 - yep, that's the one.  Comes with two keys.  Call them if you need extra.  Once cut to your lock, you'll get a serial number.  They will not make any replacement keys without that serial number.  Dealer master keys will not work with this lock.  Cheap insurance.

pthomas745

Anyone just changed out the "lock barrel" part?

http://www.rvlocksandmore.com/LocksKeys/Security-Upgrades/CLB-Cam-Lock-Barrel

Tabaz

I believe those cams replace the cargo door locks (not the entry door).  I think you can get the entry and cargo locks keyed alike.  Just need to measure the depth of the cargo door cam.

pthomas745

Thanks, Tabaz.  I went out and looked at the Tab's lock assembly and replacing the whole lock seems very easy.

TikiBarTab

This is an eye opener!  I had no idea!  Imagine if car manufacturers made their cars with universal keys!  

Michigan_Mike

This is also a good time to remind others to check the screws on the locks and door jamb fittings to ensure they are tightened down good.  Over time they do tend to loosen up via travel and as I recall there was a member locked inside their trailer a year or two ago as the door lock jammed, trapping the individual inside his trailer and he was messaging the forum looking for advice on what to do.  

Ratkity

Keep in mind that the plastic trim and some of the screws don't need to be torqued down hard. Like house vinyl siding, there's some expansion and contraction. Some light looseness is good to allow temp expansion. It doesn't take much... it's just a tiny, itty, bitty bit of not being tight. I hope you know what I mean. M_Mike is correct about bolts holding your bin, the keder rails, and other things that need to be tight!!! Some actually are in the "backing out" mode. Also take a gander at the sealing (silicone) and make sure it's still doing well. 

ericnliz

@Michigan_Mike, & @Ratkity, Just finished (yesterday) putting the Wolf T@B to rest for the winter. Before closing the door, I checked (as Mike stated above) the lock & door jam screws. They ALL took about a quarter turn to snug them up. After having the door "snag" a little once, I check them periodically to avoid the scenario of either being locked in, or out. At least if you're inside, and have the right tool, you can take the lock apart to escape, outside, not so much. Screws are now tight, cover is on, and everything is well.....except I wish I could still go campin'.....life stuff is interrupting a LOT of things right now...

Ratkity

@ericnliz, if you lived a leeeetle more south, you could camp with my crazy group (I'm the sane one) in October and November!

TabberJohn

Common RV door and hatch locks are manufactured in bulk and allow use of a master key by model or series key code. The master key opens any lock of the same model while a series master key works on any lock of the same series.

You are not going to prevent a determined thief from breaking into your trailer by changing the door lock. However, a uniquely keyed lock will prevent "opportunity theft" where an unscrupulous person with a master key walks up to your unoccupied trailer and lets themselves in. That could happen in broad daylight without anyone noticing. <sigh>

RVLock states "This is a Non-Mastered Key Code Series That is Not Accessible With Any Master Key."
That means serialized keys whether you opt for their 900 series exact replacement model ($35) or a high-end model with fob and keypad ($$$). You'll need the 3 digit number engraved on the series key and proof of prior purchase to obtain replacement keys.
They also offer a Mechanical Entry Door Handle ($29.99) at RVlock.com which lists on Amazon. This model has slightly larger "ergonomic" finger pull indent. However, the interior door side of this lock is sturdy plastic, not metal. 
The Security Series Entrance Lock ($35) is a direct replacement, 98% metal, and comes in white, black, or chrome. It is only available at RVlocksandmore.com.
I ordered an RVlock Mechanical on Amazon before I knew the differences and decided to keep it. Metal sounds better though. 
I don't know what portion of the premium models are plastic.
It is unclear what brand/model lock is on the T@B 400, but it looks more substantial than the common RV door lock on our 2015 T@B 320. 

Ratkity

Some RVs are going to the "One Key" system that eliminates the CH751 key that is ubiquitous to all storage areas on RVs nearly everywhere. I won't say "all", but it's pretty close unless the folks have changed the locks. Because many folks know that RV/Camper keys are identical (primarily storage areas), there is a huge market for unique keying sets. I really like the electronic options. Best carry extra batteries for dem remotes! 

I rode the motorcycle to an event and then couldn't start it to leave. Wha? Do'h, the bike I have has a keyless system. Just carry the fob. Why yes, I had two batteries for the fob (which needed two)! I impressed the dewds. There's a manual way, but it was easier to change the batteries. hehe.

CanyonTravelers

Has anyone tried adapting home dead bolt lock to the T@B door, would solve the key issue.

Tabaz

The throw(?) of a common household deadbolt is probably is too wide (thick) for the narrow door frame.

ChrisandAlexis

I don't know much about the inner workings of a T@B lock but if I can manage to remove the lock from our T@B, can I take it to a locksmith and get it re-keyed?

bramptontab

Our RV dealer stated that there is a master key for dealers for one of the two locks, the latch lock I believe, the deadbolt is unique on our 2017. 

Tabaz

ChrisandAlexis said:

I don't know much about the inner workings of a T@B lock but if I can manage to remove the lock from our T@B, can I take it to a locksmith and get it re-keyed?

A new complete lock is only $35. Can't imagine a locksmith charging less than that.

Towanda

I have a 2010 Dutchman and need new keys for my door and my cassette toilet. What are my options?

dragonsdofly

@Towanda, welcome to the forum. You didn't specify if you just lost the keys or you are undergoing mechanical failure. But I think the options would be similar. Have a locksmith replace or rekey, or do it yourself. Most locksmiths are going to charge a premium for traveling to any location, so if you have easy access to your trailer, take it to a locksmith during normal shop hours and have them do the work there. That solution might save you considerable cost if you are not doing the work yourself. Good luck!

rajamar

Tabaz said:

ChrisandAlexis said:

I don't know much about the inner workings of a T@B lock but if I can manage to remove the lock from our T@B, can I take it to a locksmith and get it re-keyed?

A new complete lock is only $35. Can't imagine a locksmith charging less than that.

Just had a local locksmith rearrange the wafers in our T@B 320S door locks and cut 4 keys for $30. The G345 key no longer works for our T@B. (This, of course, only provides a relatively minor increase in security - wafer locks are easy to pick and most any RV door can be opened like a tin can with a crow bar.) The locksmith pointed out several loose screws - so periodic checks will definitely be on my list.