Jacking up t@b to change tire

Deb55

@tabiphile which aluminum Harbor Freight jack do you recommend? We carry a bottle jack, but after reading the latest comments in this thread, I'm reconsidering this. Thankfully, we've never had to use it but I'd rather feel safe if we do. We have a 2018 T@B 400. 

tabiphile

This is an updated version of the one we use. At 30ish pounds it weighs less than most typical steel jacks 1.5 Ton Aluminum Rapid Pump® Racing Floor Jack (harborfreight.com)

Thier lightest option weighs only 20 pounds and is equally capable of safely lifting the trailer (or your car). 2 ton Compact Trolley Jack (harborfreight.com)
While you are there pick up a 1/2 drive torque wrench to use on the lug nuts and the castellated nut that holds on the brake drum. It's super handy to have a nice long handle tool to loosen the lugs if you need to and even better to have one that you can use to properly manage tightness.

Deb55

@tabiphile thanks! I'll try to get to harbor freight tomorrow. I actually have all the wrenches, adapters, etc. that were mentioned in the unofficial manual on this site. The only thing I wasn't sure of was what jack to get, so I went with a bottle jack that I carefully measured to be sure it would fit. However, I didn't take into account losing height due to a flat! Add to that the description of "plates balancing on a broomstick" and I think it would be wise to get a different jack. Oh, I also printed out the detailed instructions on how to change the tire, and I keep the whole kit in a drybag that goes with us on every trip. I hope we never need to use it! Here's the unofficial manual in case anyone wants the link again: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1CTxMp8mzJ_tvvVb9FjmXF63E5WXZCO-2

tabiphile

@Deb55 Folks who use a bottle jack could make it safer to use by using available adapters that spread and secure the load. It is also wise to carry a 3/4 inch square of plywood to place under the jack to help spread the load and stabilize/balance it. A one foot square would do the trick. 
Even with the floor jack I like to place a piece of plywood between the jack face and whatever it's in contact with.
Good luck! Hopefully you will only use your tools in your driveway when you do your basic annual maintenance. Roadside repairs are not fun.

fstop32

@Deltaboy59, I couldn't help but notice that your question about "lug nut torque" was not addressed (from Dec 2014 so I guess you've figured all that out by now! 8^D ).  If I were smart I'd realize no one wants to wade into the proper torque waters but then no one ever mistook me for smart.  Ok, maybe my mama but I think she was just trying to make me feel good.

Proper torque depends on several factors, lug bolt size, type/style of lug nut being used, type of rim (steel, alloy, etc) and size of rim just to cover a few.  So, being a little bit smart I won't suggest an actual torque value. Instead I'd say find out the values of those factors for your personal application and hit the internet AND your fav auto or rv dealer/shop and see what they all have to say.  
*For my application for a 14" alloy 5 bolt rim with 1/2" lug bolts and steel "coned" lug nuts the suggested torque range is 75-85 ft. lb., but that's what is right for my formula, you have to do your own math.
And while we are on torque I suggest using a torque wrench and doing it yourself or find a shop that will "torque by hand" instead of just using the pneumatic impact tool.

I concur with Verna's suggestion of keeping the camper hitched to your TV.  You want to make sure you are jacking a stabilized load and having it hitched (in park w/emergency brake set) is a great way to insure it.

I also follow @nbrandt on breaking the lug nuts loose before the wheel comes off the ground.  Trying to break them loose after jacking the wheel up will result in significant movement of your camper (or car or whatever), which should be avoided.

My 2 cents on the type of jack follows @N7SHG_Ham and @tabiphile.  I've found a smaller (but properly load rated) floor jack is the way I go.  It has a lower profile at the lifting end so it will fit between the frame and the ground more easily, even with the tire flat.  It also gives you the room for a square of 3/4" plywood under the front wheels of the jack to help with soft ground.  The longer body of a floor jack also moves your body parts a little further away from the business end of the jack.  

And I'm with @N7SHG_Ham on two more things, a) no lube on the lug bolts and b) the jacking points.  I like to catch the steel frame of the axle where it bolts to the trailer frame, either to the front or rear of that piece behind the drum.  That's my floor jack in the lower left corner and the 6"x6" timber chunk I slide under it to catch any unforeseen jack point changes.

Homebodyatheart

There are jack plates just in front of and towards  the inside of each tire on my 2017 320S. I had a mobile RV service come last spring to check the bearings, etc, and I showed him where those are located so he wouldn’t crush the axle. Bearings and all were still in great shape! Here is a pic of them.

db_cooper

FWIW, I've done the stabilizer method a couple times on our 2015 Outback and it worked fine.  But it's not inconvenient to hook up to the TV and then use a bottle or floor jack, so that's my go to method.  In an emergency the stabilizer method is fine, and was recommended by Little Guy for our 2015 in the "manual".

Horigan

Note that the stabilizer method only works on 320 size T@bs.  On 400s the stabilizers are not strong enough for jacking.

fstop32

Maybe a cautionary point would be if you are using the stabilizer method to make sure you're keeping the load on them vertically (i.e. level), on uneven ground you will be putting some side loading on them and they are not designed with strength in that direction.

Sharon_is_SAM

Just an FYI, nuCamp no longer recommends using the “stabilizer” method with any TaB.  It is, however, acceptable with TaG trailers.