Winterizing Methods Revisited

DurangoTaB

When we bought our T@B 3 years ago the salesman had never seen one...but he was an avid boater and a nice guy, they treated us well and we were sorry to see them retire.  This guy had a twist on winterizing...drain, pink, THEN blow out the lines.  Any low spots will be pink stuff, and flushing will be easy in the Spring.  I did that the first year, but for the last 2 winters I’ve just blown the lines, being very careful on the tilt of the T@B and taking time to clear the lines.  Our winters aren’t that harsh, but it can get near zero ...

Sharon_is_SAM

DurangoTab, what do you mean your winters are not that harsh...but it can get near zero.  Ha!  Isn't that harsh?  I don't want to see what your idea of a harsh winter is...makes me cold just thinking of zero

Bill_Cochrane

I'm thinking it's 0C or 32F (?).

DurangoTaB

@SAM... I’ve been to Cleveland in the winter...now THAT is a WET cold!  Normal winter lows for us are around 30F, with screaming blue sunshine.  When I was at CU in the 70s, on the first snow I’d look out at the courtyard...the natives would stay inside cuz it wasn’t enough to ski on, the New Yorkers were out in their new $500 down coats, and the guys from Michigan would be out with their t-shirts playing touch football...

Sharon_is_SAM

I guess it is all relative, huh?  But don't rub it in!  Actually, our winters have improved - milder with much more sunshine.  We don't get much snow - too bad as I prefer a snowy winter.  I have fond memories of multiple days of sled riding as a kid, now my DH and I get to cross country ski only 1 - 2 times a season.  Only used the snow blower once last year.  But, it's Cleveland and as they say, if you don't like the weather just wait a few minutes.  Off track - back to winterizing!

JohnDanielsCPA

@tabberdave Yes, you can run your Alde in the winter for heat without having water in your tank.  The Alde does not need water to heat the glycol, which is what is actually generating heat.  IF there is water being supplied to the Alde, it will also heat the water in the boiler, which is a part of the Alde. Again, you don’t need water to heat your T@B using an Alde.  @Tbone I agree; seems like there were a few references in that video that I questioned.  

CandJB

The owners manual for the 2023 320 Boondock details and recommends the antifreeze method, but includes a notice that the blow out method can be used. They recommend consulting with your dealer for instructions and training.

I've not picked up my T@B yet and just been trying to make sure I'm ready with tools, supplies, hoses and such since I'll probably need to winterize after my 1st trip. IF I choose to go with the antifreeze method, how much antifreeze does that take?

Sharon_is_SAM

A 320 takes about 2 gallons or less.

otr_320

CandJB said:The owners manual for the 2023 320 Boondock details and recommends the antifreeze method, but includes a notice that the blow out method can be used. They recommend consulting with your dealer for instructions and training.

I find it interesting the the '23 NuCamp T@B Owner's Manual (75 page pdf version) has the large, bold "Notice" where NuCamp recommends the Antifreeze method (over the blow-out method), but at the same time provides 18 steps for winterizing the 320 that start with the blow-out and end with antifreeze as a matter-of-course.  The NuCamp YT winterizing video for the '23 320 appears to take the same (blow-out & antifreeze) approach.

Although we have a large 240v compressor in our garage (and Viair for use on the road), we've only used antifreeze to winterize our RV's as a matter of habit.  Have no objection using the blow-out method (along with antifreeze) if it's the best overall option.

What's NuCamp's ultimate recommendation?  Blow-out, then antifreeze or just antifreeze?

pthomas745

@otr_320 The confusion occurs with the process on the Nautilus: On the P3 manual, page 12, see the description of setting the valves to the "45 degree" position and the use of the compressor. At paragraph 5: 

5. Using "CITY WATER" inlet or low point drain, blow out plumbing lines (40 PSI max) with handles

still at 45 degree angle as shown. This will ensure any

trapped water in plumbing harness is removed.

I added the bold/italics.  This part of the Nautilus winterizing process only blows out the "harness", that mass of pipes/valves/diverters directly behind the Nautilus panel.  With the valves in the 45 degree position, compressed air does not go to any of the faucets in the trailer. 

You can't get compressed air or antifreeze to the faucets/plumbing in the trailer until the valves are set to the "Winterize" position starting at Paragraph 7.

Despite many millions of trailer owners world wide using the "blowout" method, NuCamp never even mentions it because...who knows?   Just be assured you are not the only owner wondering about this and being confused about the instructions that gloss over some parts of the process.

Horigan

I suspect NuCamp recommends blowout before antifreeze to ensure the antifreeze doesn’t get too diluted. Prior to the Nautilus implementation, antifreeze was optional. 

otr_320

pthomas745 said:

@otr_320 The confusion occurs with the process on the Nautilus: On the P3 manual, page 12, see the description of setting the valves to the "45 degree" position and the use of the compressor. At paragraph 5: 

5. Using "CITY WATER" inlet or low point drain, blow out plumbing lines (40 PSI max) with handles

still at 45 degree angle as shown. This will ensure any

trapped water in plumbing harness is removed.

I added the bold/italics.  This part of the Nautilus winterizing process only blows out the "harness", that mass of pipes/valves/diverters directly behind the Nautilus panel.  With the valves in the 45 degree position, compressed air does not go to any of the faucets in the trailer. 

You can't get compressed air or antifreeze to the faucets/plumbing in the trailer until the valves are set to the "Winterize" position starting at Paragraph 7.

Despite many millions of trailer owners world wide using the "blowout" method, NuCamp never even mentions it because...who knows?   Just be assured you are not the only owner wondering about this and being confused about the instructions that gloss over some parts of the process.

Thanks for the clarification.

I think we'll play it safe and follow all 18 steps (blow-out and antifreeze) in the 320 owner's manual to winterize.

Out of curiosity, has anyone expressed concern that doing antifreeze alone (no blow-out) would leave some parts of the 320 (to include the Nautilus valves and lines) unprotected?  

bergger

I've always used the antifreeze method without blowing anything out with no issues.  I use prestone -100 antifreeze and our trailer is winterized from October to May with regular temps in the single to negative digits.  Never had anything break over the winter.  

Maxcamp

Another perspective.  Our 2021 320 cannot be fully drained due to faulty factory installations of sagging tank, ineffective low points, and improper sloping of lines.  No amount of compressed air can compensate.

So in goes four or more gallons of antifreeze after draining all lines and valves, pumping it up through systems, emptying ranks and priming drains with full strength mix.

Having wintered decades back in uninsulated cabins, learned the hard way that drained piping still has lots of water coating piping walls, which coalesces and freezes, cracking fittings at the hardest to solder spots.

I find it safer to use antifreeze and not wonder if you got all the water out of low points and valves.  

Leaving in AM for two weeks in the 20s South through 60s North.  Weird weather.