Winterizing Methods Revisited

System

This discussion was created from comments split from: Idle-off-topic-chit chat - Part 2.

gbell

regarding winterizing the T@B 320S,  I have the winterizing manual 2016 T@B model downloaded to my computer, I was checking the nucamp manuals and they only have the 2014-15 manual, which is different from the one I downloaded in 2016.  Mine has the 2 methods, 1st air Blow Out Plug only, 2nd way with RV Antifreeze.   Have they changed their mind regarding blow out only method?  This is the method we are using and it seems fine, but I want to know what you all think on this. Thanks.

ericnliz

@gbell, The preferred method for dealers (the ones I've spoken to) is the antifreeze method. I guess in some ways, I can understand why when dealing with various types of campers with various types of water systems ( hot & cold, versus cold only), and an array of different shower systems, both inside & outside. The use of the antifreeze pretty much takes care of the guess work of whether or not you got a sufficient amount, or all of the water out of the system to prevent frozen, cracked, and/or broken pipes, and water fixtures.
I use the blow out method myself, and I don't think I've ever spoken to a T@B owner who uses the antifreeze method (to date anyway). Personally, I really don't want antifreeze in my water system, and that is the main reason I don't use the antifreeze method. I'd be MORE worried about getting all the antifreeze out prior to using the water system the next camping season. Might be the thoughts at nuCamp as well, I'm not sure. Just an FYI, it got BELOW -15* here last year, and I had NO problems at all. I just make sure when I use the blow out method, mist only is coming out of the fixtures & drains. I DO use  RV antifreeze in the shower drain, the toilet (both down the dark, dreary hole & on top of the flapper), and enough in the sink to fill the trap under the sink. I also move the black & gray gates back & forth with the antifreeze present in those drains to prevent the gates from cracking if there is residual water stuck there. 

Verna

The factory has confirmed in the past that they use the blow-out method, as in no RV pink anti-freeze in the water lines or in the fresh water tank. **Edit** I do put pink antifreeze in the sink, shower and toilet, making sure I operate the toilet flap and both waste tank levers to get the anti-freeze there also. 

I use the blow-out method also, without mishap (knock loudly on wood!) for 3 season, at least two times a season since I do travel during the typical winter months. 

Ratkity

I use the antifreeze method after blowing everything out. Tis overkill, but it makes me feel better. I'm always worried that a little water is lurking in a place that is delicate and would cause catastrophic damage... keep in mind I can't think of this mysterious place, it's just a phobia. If antifreeze gets in there and is even watered down a little because of hiding water, it still won't freeze where I live (sorry, my extreme northern brethren!). I have yet to winterize the toy hauler. I have that EZ winterizing system found in that video, but not all the water outlet switches, etc. Them be manual for me!

Michigan_Mike

~Slowly backs out of thread, closes door slowly~    

Roamey

I'm surprised you all have air compressors hanging around your houses. I've never owned one other than a tire pump. What am I missing?  Bought just for camper?

Verna

@Roamey, I'm a woodworker, so yes, I have a real compressor, but I don't use it for winterizing the T@B. 

I have a Slime (brand name) that is a small 12V compressor. It is strong enough to keep my T@B's tires inflated.

I feed the cord into the front window, and plug it into the 12V outlet above the sink. Then proceed with the blow-out method. 

Roamey

I guess there must be an adapter. I never thought of using it for anything other than tires. So you just open all your faucets and drains in summer mode and hold the compressor nozzle in the city water connection?

Sharon_is_SAM

You can use your water pressure regulator as an adapter I think.  That's my plan.

Verna

Go to the RV section of Walmart and look for a blow out plug. It looks like the valve on a tire where you put the air in. That is what you connect your compressor to after screwing the blow out plug into the city water inlet. There are so many existing threads on how to use the blow out plug. Do a search for blowout or blow out and I know there is a photo I posted of the blow out plug. 

Roamey

Guess what comes up when searching for blowout?  Norcold refrigerator . Found this Camco with Web search. 

ericnliz

Aw, come on @Michigan_Mike, join the fun! @Roamey, That's one style, there are quite a few different ones available, including one you can just connect an air line from a compressor to. If you choose the one you can just connect an air line to, make sure you have a compressor you can regulate the air flow with. I set mine at 50 PSI, use the regulator, and blow everything out....TWICE just to make sure!!! 

Sharon_is_SAM

JKJenn suggested this

Sharon_is_SAM

Turns out I also bought that blow out plug above!  Our Viair 12 V compressor is in the TaB in storage, but after next week we will winterize and find out then how it all works.

Ratkity

There's a old modification with that blow-out plug attached to a ordinary hand-held weed sprayer pump. It still has the handle to regulate the pressure as it goes in. An electric tire compressor works too. Keep in mind that the 12V plug does get a bit warm and all the little compressors aren't meant to run for long periods of time. Look at the owner's manual for warnings!

ScottG

I stick to the blowout method as well, mostly because I don't want to deal with all the draining and rinsing in the spring. In addition to attending to the usual details (making sure the toilet valve is blown, putting a little antifreeze in the traps and dump valves, etc.), last year I also ran a little antifreeze into the water pump. I did this by unscrewing the lines to the pump, running the outflow to a container, and pouring a little antifreeze into the inlet line while briefly activating the pump.

I make no claim that this is necessary, but I live pretty deep in cold country and I've always been skeptical that I am able to drive all the residual water from the pump. While it's a little awkward to access and disconnect the pump lines, it's still a relatively easy addition to the winterizing routine that provides a little extra piece of mind.

Photomom

ScottG said:

I stick to the blowout method as well, mostly because I don't want to deal with all the draining and rinsing in the spring. In addition to attending to the usual details (making sure the toilet valve is blown, putting a little antifreeze in the traps and dump valves, etc.), last year I also ran a little antifreeze into the water pump. I did this by unscrewing the lines to the pump, running the outflow to a container, and pouring a little antifreeze into the inlet line while briefly activating the pump.

I make no claim that this is necessary, but I live pretty deep in cold country and I've always been skeptical that I am able to drive all the residual water from the pump. While it's a little awkward to access and disconnect the pump lines, it's still a relatively easy addition to the winterizing routine that provides a little extra piece of mind.

Can you explain "making sure the toilet valve is blown"?

ScottG

Photomom said:

...

Can you explain "making sure the toilet valve is blown"?

While the system is pressurized, make sure you pull the flush lever to blow any residual water out of the valve. Others have reported damage to the valve when they have failed to do so.

The same applies to all they valves and faucets, it's just that the toilet is easy to forget!

Photomom

ScottG said:

Photomom said:

...

Can you explain "making sure the toilet valve is blown"?

While the system is pressurized, make sure you pull the flush lever to blow any residual water out of the valve. Others have reported damage to the valve when they have failed to do so.

The same applies to all they valves and faucets, it's just that the toilet is easy to forget!

Ah, thanks, we've done that, sounded like there was something else. 

Bill_Cochrane

Looks to me like a good, complete winterization video (except I cannot see the valves in the video when he is working on the Alde).   Bit nervous to do this for myself as it would be my first time.  If I get it wrong it could be expensive to fix. Any comments, ie there is a better video available, he missed something, there is a better way, etc.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CsaBSNjDlIQ

Sharon_is_SAM

It sounds like he told the Tab owner that to use the Alde you must have water in it.  While that is true for using the hot water tank, I think she was alluding to being able to heat the cabin with the boiler without having water in the hot water tank.  

I have never winterized.  Rather than add antifreeze to the water pump, can you simply, drain tanks and blow out the lines, then disconnect both sides of the pump and let it dry out?  

ChanW

@SAM, in short, yes. But also add antifreeze to the drains, and 'flush' some through the gray and black tanks' gate valves. 

Sharon_is_SAM

Yes, I plan to add antifreeze to the traps and tank gate valves.  The video showed sucking up antifreeze into the pump and  then Scott's comment made me wonder if disconnecting the pump input and output would be helpful.

ChanW

I've never disconnected the pump, only drained it and blown the lines thoroughly. Maybe run it dry a little while. It won't hurt it to run dry.

Sharon_is_SAM

Good advice.  Thanks.

JohnDanielsCPA

I don’t think he was ever clear that you can run the Alde with no water in the system to heat your cabin.  Also, when I open the low point valves, I also turn on the faucet in the kitchen and shower to help with the draining process.  Finally, when you are pushing air through the system, make sure you also open your inside and outside shower valves.  I didn’t see him do that.

TerryV6

We still did the anti freeze method this year.  Maybe next year I’ll go the blow out method.  
So,
We’ve gone through all the steps.  Previously, at the last campsite, we had drained both gray and black..  Anyway, my fresh water tank is empty, traps etc have glycol and the gray water tank is empty.  Is it necessary to empty the black tank?  There are 3 or 4 flushes in it of glycol.  My wife says no...  I’m trying to remember... I think we did it last year and dumped it in the toilet.  

Sharon_is_SAM

It is a good idea to put enough antifreeze into both the grey and black tanks to get down to the gate-valves, then open and close them to try to replace any lingering water with antifreeze.  You do not need to empty the antifreeze from the grey/black tanks or short sewer chutes.  Also, after your last toilet flush of AF, put some more back in the bowl of the toilet to keep the seal wet.

ontheroad

hubby and I have a T@G and due to where the line is located we can't guarantee that we have gotten all the water out ..even with blowing...so using the pink stuff, we carry fresh water with us, have only used the tank once but use city connection, better safe than sorry for us in Ontario Canada

Freshaire

This is all greek to me.  How does one add antifreeze to the gray and blank tanks?