Options

Recommendations for compressor (for winterizing)

Hello Folks--after reading and watching instructions for the winterizing of my Tab, I am in the process of gathering the items I will need.  I started researching compressors on-line and am overwhelmed by the options.   From what I have read the12-v ones don't have the volume needed, other sources say it is not the psi that is important, but rather the gallon size.  SO. . . .what do you Tabbers use?

I have survived my life without a compressor, and am buying it primarily for the winterization process.  I am happy to have something that can also inflate my truck (18") and tractor tires though.  So, help a gal out and take the guess work out of this for me.  Brand, size, etc.  Thanks!
2015 T@b 320S Maxx Outback, aka "Alie Cat"
TV:  2012 Honda Ridgeline

Alice
Crozet, VA

Comments

  • Options
    db_cooperdb_cooper Member Posts: 726
    As long as it goes up to 50 PSI you're good for winterizing, most start at 100, so you'll have to use the adjustment to limit it, and also use your water regulator as backup.

    Something like this is what I use ( I have a 3 gallon Campbell Hausfield, available at Walmart probably).

    https://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools/air-compressors/1-3-hp-3-gallon-100-psi-oilless-air-compressor-97080.html

    I use it for tires, winterizing, and occasionally adding air to our home water pressure tank.


    2015 Max S Outback | 2010 Xterra



  • Options
    Sharon_is_SAMSharon_is_SAM Administrator Posts: 9,506
    edited October 2017
    I was overwhelmed, too.  We wanted a compact, light one for topping up a tire and winterizing.  It works well.  We also bought a 12 volt extension cord just in case.  (This link has been editted and now works.  You can stop reading here
    Sharon / 2017 T@B CSS / 2015 Toyota Sienna Minivan / Westlake, Ohio
  • Options
    ScottGScottG Administrator Posts: 5,441
    edited October 2017
    Moderator's note: The discussion of how to create links within a post has been moved and merged here.

    Here's the link to the compressor SAM was recommending:

    https://www.amazon.com/Viair-00073-Heavy-Portable-Compressor/dp/B0012WHBSO

    I'm drunk with pixie stick power! Bwahahahaha!


    2015 T@B S

  • Options
    RoameyRoamey Member Posts: 239
    @Freshaire, I'm with you. Why do so many people have air compressors?  Then I thought of my tire inflator. Following the advice here, I bought an adapter for the city water connection and added the water pressure regulator, then hooked up the inflator. I can feel the air coming out of the faucets, the toilet water flushes out and the shower head. Now I have to finish up with the rest of the procedures. 



       T@B trip wherever
    New surprises everyday
       See beautiful world
  • Options
    mandtmandt Member Posts: 158
    Since the compressor shoots out 100 psi and the trailer warns not to go past 50 psi, does the blow out plug solve this problem?
    Mickey & Terri
    2016 Max S
    Kalamazoo Michigan
  • Options
    RoameyRoamey Member Posts: 239
    I figure the faucets and drains are open, so pressure won't build as in a closed system like inflating a tire. 
       T@B trip wherever
    New surprises everyday
       See beautiful world
  • Options
    BrianZBrianZ Member Posts: 1,763

    Here's my 2 cents on air compressors..
    In my experience with blowing out our yard sprinkler system, and in talking with the installer who does this professionally, the most important spec on the air compressor is not the PSI rating, but the airflow rate in CFM (cubic feet per min).
     
    You can get a high PSI pressure rating, without much of any sustained airflow, and the tankless compressors typically have lower CFM ratings.  While you don't need a big 30 gal tank compressor like we use for our sprinkler system to blow out the smaller diameter & shorter length pipes in a T@B, I believe that one with a tank of at least a few gallons size and a few CFMs rating would be far more effective in clearing water from pipes than a low flow air pump designed simply for inflating tires. 

    Any amount of low pressure, like 20-40 PSI can safely & effectively push out a continuous column of water from the pipes, even at a low flow rate, however, after the column of water is already mostly drained from the pipes, then you need a high air flow rate to actually blow out any remaining pockets of water.

    For the above reasons, I recently recommended this model to our cousins for blowing out their new T@B, because it's rated at 3.7 CFM at 40 psi..


    A tank half this size may do fine too, but will likely have a lower CFM rating and may cost just as much.  This one can be used for power tools as well, and it does have a separate pressure gauge and regulator adjustment knob at the hose connection.

    So, that's my take on air compressors for blowing out water lines - it's mostly all about CFMs.  By the way, this standard type of air compressor takes a standard pressure hose that fits a blowout connector like this in the T@B water connection...


    I always use a 90-degree elbow fitting like this one as the first thing connected to the T@B's plastic threaded connector collar.  Then the weight of whatever hose or filter, etc, that you connect is hanging straight down and not sticking out & acting like a pry-bar on the T@B's water connector.


    I like brass fittings - they're strong & don't rust.

    -Brian in Chester, Virginia
    TV: 2005 Toyota Sienna LE (3.3L V6)
    RV: 2018 T@B 320S, >100 mods 
  • Options
    VernaVerna Member Posts: 6,878
    I have used a stand-on-the-floor bicycle pump at midnight before, so I wouldn’t disturb my neighbors. It worked.  I normally use my 12V Slime tire air compressor, which works very well. 
    Verna, Columbus, IN
    2021 T@B 320S  Boondock “The T@B”
    Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
  • Options
    JimEngelJimEngel Member Posts: 45
    All of these are good suggestions, and if you have anything similar there is no need to spend more money.
    But there is a very important side point; this assumes that you work with all valves and drains off and then open one at a time. This means that the air compressor does not need any reserve capacity, a smaller one or one with a small tank will just take a little longer.
    However, if several lines or faucets are open at one time, then the larger units with bigger tanks, such as the Porter-Cable pancake unit above, will be more likely to clear several or all lines.
  • Options
    drpprmtdrpprmt Member Posts: 117
    Question.  If you use compressed air at the city water inlet, doesn't this bypass the water pump.  Won't this leave residual water in the pump to freeze.  Seems this is disastrous to the pump.
  • Options
    JimEngelJimEngel Member Posts: 45

    You are correct that the water pump needs to be considered and planned for.
    First step is usually to drain the water tank and open the valves, the water pump sits higher than most of the system. Then run the pump while the pick up line is sucking air.
    For the details and diagrams, this may be helpful:
    http://www.angelplace.net/camp/Winterization.pdf


  • Options
    dsfdogsdsfdogs Member Posts: 590
    @Verna can you provide a link for the Slime 12v tire air compressor you have? There are so many...thank you!
    Debbie in Oregon
    2023 Tab 400 / 2022 F150 XLT Sport 3.5EB
    Traded in - 2018 T@B 320 S/2019 Toyota 4Runner SR5

  • Options
    VernaVerna Member Posts: 6,878
    @dsfdogs, I got it from Walmart, with a price tag of over $50. I can get the model # off the unit tomorrow if you can’t find it at Walmart. 
    Verna, Columbus, IN
    2021 T@B 320S  Boondock “The T@B”
    Towed by a white 2019 Ford F-150 4x4 Supercab, 3.5L V6 Ecoboost “The Truck”
Sign In or Register to comment.