Red Light On Alde Control Panel

Nomad

Here's what mine looks like - Similar to yours?

jkjenn

That sag looks like mine, too.

Nomad

Hmmmm - That makes three of us so there's definitely a trend and something arye.
SgtJohn, You can now let the factory know it's not just your T@B - Let us know what the factory says.

Sgtjohn

That looks exactly like mine!  I thought it was the heat from the sun but now I'm not sure.  

Nomad

Sgtjohn - That's what I initially thought also but it (the frame) seems to sit high enough that it's not in the sun. And you'd think the others would sag - My T@B side windows probably get more sun then the front.

Michigan_Mike

Sgtjohn said:

We managed to depart  Balmorhea TX and drove 40 mph to Ft Stockton TX.  We did ask a local if there were any RV parks other than in town and he directed us to one not far away with electricity and muddy parking but a least we have electricity and heat.  Tomorrow AM we determine if we should go home or San Antonio.

I've camped at the place you are referring to, just south of town.  Dirt parking area and the only thing going for that place is that they have electric.  White rest room building/shower facility and the guy running it reminded me of the Bate's Motel.  LOL  I won't be camping there again!  

Sgtjohn

Nor will we!  However through it all I think we have been somewhat educated on the Alde, it's not as complicated as thought and is really quite simple to operate and understand-at least the control panel!

Sgtjohn

I called Ed K and he is sending me a new valance (with the accordion blind), new USB, new decal and 5 lug nuts to replace the two I ruined.  He had no qualms at all if I installed the USB port and blind-of course it saves Little Guy $$ but I'd rather do the job myself and do it right vs a local RV repair.  I offered to send him the defective parts back but he didn't want them.

Nomad

SgtJohn - Did you happen to mention you weren't the only one with these issues?
Just curious so when I call Ed knowing he's semi aware that it's not an isolated issue.

Sgtjohn

Yes I did, I told him there were several people on the forum that had the same problem.

Nomad

Cool, thanks. I'll have to give him a call.

Sgtjohn

PXLated said:

Sgtjohn - Do you have a pic of your sagging blind topper - Mine has a big sag also (on the right side)

I received a complete new front window system, frame, blind and screen from LG and I was thinking, what if...I bought a piece of thin aluminum about 3' long and 3/4" wide and used short screws to mount it to the top ledger where the swag is and it might bring it to some sort of acceptance-visual wise.  I'll report later, the one I bought was a bit too thin.  However, since it is the only window frame exposed, why not drill a hole in the top mid-range and push up the "swag" until it's normal and put a screw into the frame?  
that ought to hold it!

leenscottfl

I am a died in the wool tent camper. Well, until very recently when I purchased a 2015 S Maxx that I haven't used as yet. We tent camp for up 3 months at a time and use a 10 pound LP tank to fire up our Coleman stove. When we camp in out T@B we still intend using our Coleman and LP tank. Ten pound tanks are hard to find but will make an excellent "spare" if our 20 on the T@B runs out.

arcticman

I recently (last weekend) bought a new S Maxx Outback.  I got it home and did a quick night of driveway camping to test things out before I had to leave the country for work.  I was having some trouble with the heating system and don't think I was ever able to get it working. I was trying to run the heat on the propane.  I switched the propane on (LP burner on) and then turned the hot water and heat on (normal mode).  The red light would start blinking and then stop and when it stopped I would hear a click from the unit.  I interpreted this as it was trying to light but wasn't lighting.  Eventually the red light would just blink continuously.  

Reading the manual says:

"Red LED flashes if the voltage to the boiler goes below10,5 V (automatic resetting at higher voltage)."

What I don't understand is why this was happening.  Battery had been fully charged from the factory, then connected via my brake controller, and then plugged in to 110V at home so should have been fully charged.  Only other thing to note is the Tab was still connected to 110V when this was going on. Any thoughts?

Matt

Sgtjohn

Mine did the same thing and I called T@B.  He said have the battery checked at Auto Zone etc and make sure it's Google.  I did and the battery was fully charged-(good.  I haven't had a chance to recheck things but Ed told me how to check the wiring but didn't adequately cover everything.  The fuse at the battery was good also.  I too have to continue researching the problem.

Nomad

The red light went on for me once after a couple of days of overcast rain and very little solar at 11.2v - Recharged from the TV and everything was back to normal.

jkjenn

Ed is going to look at a couple of things, including the sagging blind. He said mine was the most pronounced he had seen.

Nomad

Jenn - Let us know what Ed thinks - Mine droops about 1-1.25 inches about a third of the way from the right.

Rebar

I saw PXLated's mention that the Alde stopped working after the battery dropped to below 11.2.  I've had this happen as well and it too will cause the red light to come on the Alde 3010 panel.  I have a solar panel that keeps the battery topped off when not on shore power but it stopped charging for some reason.  Unplugged the solar, plugged it back in, and after a sunny afternoon, the battery was fat and happy, and the red light went out.  Alde started working again.

Nomad

Cool - Glad to hear that's all it was.
I've had to unplug my solar to kick-start it a couple of times like you did.

Sgtjohn

The replacement for our sagging blind is now just as pronounced as the old one.  I emailed Ed at LG and suggested that a piece of aluminum be used to support the top rail.  I think the heat radiating from the front window, refrig and stove (hasn't been used) is part of the problem.

Nomad

Sgtjohn - Plastic isn't probably a good material to use above heat sources. Your aluminum thingy is a good suggestion, could do the trick.

Sgtjohn

Pix, I went to Lowes and spent a little over $4.00 for a piece of strap aluminum today and drilled the appropriate holes (3) one on each end and one in the middle.  I screwed one end on and pushed the aluminum against the opposite end and it pulled up the "swag" then I put screws in that end and the middle.  The change is quite obvious, no swag!

Nomad

How wide a strap did you use?
The factory should do this - would save them a bunch of warranty calls like mine.

Verna

SgtJohn, if you could write up something about what you used, how you attached it, a picture or two, I can get it to the factory to the correct person.  Remember, Little Guy doesn't read the forum, but Mike and I can get messages of improvements to them so they know something needs changed and they can make adjustments.  Either put it here, or send me a private message so I can get it where it will make a difference.   Thanks

Verna

Oh, and remember the factory workers are Amish and they don't use the campers they build.  So they aren't used to maybe exactly how something is used and how the sun affects these shades, etc.  Not an excuse for the business, but it's always something I keep in the back of my mind.

sabel

My 1st question with this solution is how to prevent the center screw from damaging the pleats.
There's very little gap between the raised pleated shades and the plastic housing.

Michigan_Mike

Would pop rivets work for this application as this should make things flush?  

Michigan_Mike

Sgtjohn said:

The replacement for our sagging blind is now just as pronounced as the old one.  I emailed Ed at LG and suggested that a piece of aluminum be used to support the top rail.  I think the heat radiating from the front window, refrig and stove (hasn't been used) is part of the problem.

For future intent folks and in an effort to preserve it, this is good information and the type of suggestion that could help others out down the road.  But when we post these random thoughts in an off topic manner they are no doubt lost in time, because others will not read through the threads completely and oft times miss valuable information shared on the forum.  

This isn't intended to be critical toward anyone either and is merely a suggestion.  If you would create a separate posting regarding the shade issue, add it in to the "Tips & Tricks" discussion area it would be a valuable contribution that could be referenced in the future.  In as much as we do often get "off topic" these are the things that can make the difference for others.  I liked the shade support suggestion enough that I took the time to send it on to the factory and let Scott Hubble know about it.  He wasn't personally aware of the issue and will go over it with Ed.  I know that Ed is quite involved with the operation, spends some time in the office, but is also out on the factory floor, so many times these things do drop through the cracks.  

So please folks, when you have these types of fixes, suggestions and information it would behoove you to take a few moments, snap some photographs, document your work and post it up on the forum and via a new discussion.  This is the basis behind the forum and is why it has become so popular over time, because it is a repository of sorts for information and we do have some very talented and intelligent individuals who are kind enough to share information and ideas.  This information also helps to evolve the trailer line as Little Guy and the factory do listen, they welcome all feedback and will make changes in real time if they feel a suggestion warrants it.

Thanks for all your support, ideas and suggestions and keep them coming!  

Sgtjohn

I'll take photo of the subject support within a couple of days, I had two shades and one is installed and and the other is in the attic.  and Michigan Mike, rivets is an excellent idea, I used small screws but rivets are far better.