Rubber Seals and Plastic Trim

warren207

I am very unhappy with my T@B. We traded in our 2014 T@B for a brand new 2017 T@B MaxS.  We were very happy to have a bath and shower.  However, after only a few trips our Trim and “Rubber” seals were almost falling off. The dealer “fixed” it ???  We just took her out for the new camping season and have the same problems. I will be contacting NuCamp. 

(Edited for photo size.  Sharon)

jkjenn

Adhesives can dry out. Pick up some Shoe Goo and you should be set.

ScottG

@warren207, I haven't seen many reports of seals coming loose to that extent. I'd be suspicious of the dealer's efforts to "fix" it, but of course why it had to be fixed in the first place remains a mystery.

Two of your photos show apparent splits in the plastic trim. Are those actual cracks, or normal joints between separate pieces of trim? There have been reports of plastic trim cracking, but it usually doesn't happen quite so neatly.

4ncar

The "inboard" rubber seal on mine (Passenger side) began to separate.  I was able to reseat it with the flat edge of a reg. screw driver.  There is a seat.  I'll see how well my fix works, as on Saturday we hit the road for 9 days....

warren207

Those are cracks in the trim. 

Dalehelman

warren207 said:

Those are cracks in the trim. 

That piece needs to be replaced under warranty.

Dalehelman

Get some of this stuff to stick the black rubber trim down. Just use a little every 10”-12”. Do not use silicone. You can find it at Walmart in the RV /Auto Dept.

newell

I wouldn't touch any of that.  This is a 2017 and I would insist the factory fix it.  Once you cob it up, you own it....

ScottG

That's all well and good, if you are in a position to actually have the factory fix it. For most of us, warranty work at a dealership is the only option outside of DIY. In that case, I can cob things up just fine myself without any help from the "pros."  ;-)

However, in warren207's case I would at least be soliciting replacement parts for the cracked trim.  

ericnliz

@newell, I'm going to have to agree with @ScottG on this one. Some of us live a LONG WAYS from the factory, and driving there is not an option, so we fix things ourselves. Hmmmm....which brings up a point...when will we get a factory on the West coast?????

newell

Great idea ericnliz with the west coast thing, maybe east coast too.   I live in central NY and I am heading to Sugar Creek this May to get my roof trim fixed.  Let's just say my dealer didn't do such a great job fixing mine.  My T@B was kind of a major investment for me and I don't intend to devalue it by cobbling it up or allowing someone else to screw it up either.  Sorry to sound so defensive but when I can get a new Starcraft for $15,000 and I buy a new 2017  T@B for $21,000, I expect it to be right.

newell

and, I think nuCamp would agree....

4ncar

...in follow up to my earlier post...just returned from 9days on the road. My fixing of the trim(reseating) held up.  Approx miles logged: 2300. If you use a flat screw driver and the palm of your hand, you can reseat the trim into its intended location.

ScottG

@newell, I don't interpret your comments as defensive at all. In fact, I agree with you. It's just that for me a road trip to the midwest to have my camper repaired also constitutes a major investment in both time and money.

While I would hope not to get in a situation requiring major warranty work (the recent frame cracking situation comes to mind...) if it does happen the only practical option those of us out on the fringes have will be to do it ourselves or to explore other creative local solutions.

I'm glad you can make it out to Sugar Creek and get your fix done right!

newell

ScottG. Thanks for the kind words. I think the solution here is for nuCamp to find qualified dealers that can not only sell of beloved T@Bs but also fix them on the rare occasions when work becomes necessary.   

ericnliz

@newell, Agree....the whole is only as good as the parts that make it up.

warren207

NuCamp has stated that I should take my T@B to the nearest dealer and they will have it repaired. I also feel that I should not have to “fix” something that should not be falling apart. Will update after repairs. 

lino

I’m having the exact issue
Lucky enough to get it fixed under warranty soon

But disappointing that it seems like a common issue

Had to get some tape while on the way camping last night to keep it from peeling off yesterday

warren207

Well, I took the T@B MaxS into my dealer to have the repairs done and came away with the New T@B 400.  We are so excited to get this. Will update after this season. 

(Edited for photo size - Sharon)

trainwrecked

Now that's what I call warranty service!!  Congrats on the new 400, hope your experience is much better this time around

MuttonChops

While doing spring cleaning found the roof Black Rubber Weather Stripping is lifting on my 320S; several feet on drivers side rear section.

Reading different threads there appears to be two failure modes. One the rubber 'U'-channel slips off the colored plastic trim. Second the rubber lifts off the roof surface, which is what mine is doing.

On my 320S the root cause of the lifting appears to be a manufacturing error.

On the Drivers Side Forward Plastic and all of the Passenger Side the colored plastic is mated/aligned correctly with the Visor Rail. In the area of lifting (Drivers Side Aft) there is a gap - - - plastic was not fully/correctly forced down before the Visor Rail screws were installed.

I understand how RV GOOP can fix the 'U'-channel failure mode. It is not as clear how well RV GOOP can fix the “lifted from roof” failure mode. The natural relaxed position parallel to the roof surface needs to forced down at an angle - - - seems it will be challenging to hold everything in place to allow a strong GOOP set & cure - - -

I've not decided how to proceed with a repair. Ideally the Plastic Cap should be removed and correctly installed. And would assume that will require new holes in both the Visor Rail and Plastic Cap - - - believe reusing original rail holes will cause holes in cap (old & new) to merge and limit holding strength.  That is a huge project compared to trying GOOP or some type of caulking bead to hold the rubber down.

Will think on it.

dsfdogs

@MuttonChops wow, good job on figuring out the root cause of the rubber lifting from the surface of the trailer. I "wish" my problem were simply the rubber coming out of the track as the Goop/Shoe Goo method would be easy. I tried both products and blue tape to hold down the lip to allow the glue to cure, but it didn't work. As you said, the angle is too great. I still have the same gap pictured above. I had forgotten I wanted to get a fine point type cap for the tube of Goop so I could squeeze some inside the gap (like caulking) to help ensure the rubber doesn't come out. It's quite a mess trying to get the Goop in that space.

I also had some black rubber lifting and out of the track in the underneath back section. Goop did work to re-adhere and lay flat and I used blue tape to hold it while curing. Removing it was slow, while crouched and lying under the trailer.

Brad42

My new tab 320 s has the black roof trim lifting away in places as well. Question- is this trim for looks as a transition from the plastic trim to the roof, or is it functional; actually sealing against water intrusion?

BrianZ

Question for @MuttonChops..
In your diagram showing the lifted trim, the screw appears to have been placed below the edge of the trim, thereby not fastening it to the wall.  Could you actually see that this was the case?  Or, is it possible that the screw was going through the trim but too close to the edge that there wasn't enough material to hold it in place & it pulled though the edge & out of the hole in the trim?  Either way it's a manufacturing defect, but wondering to what extent - whether it's the sole cause or a contributing cause in some cases.

I'm wondering if this happens primarily in darker trim colors & T@Bs with more sun exposure, which might cause the trim to heat up and possibly warp & pull away.  Has anyone seen this issue in any T@Bs with lighter trim colors?  What made me think of this was yesterday while working on our new tub light, I had a set of black drill bits sitting in the midday sun for an hour or so.  When I picked one up, it was so hot to touch that I could barely hold it. 

We have silver trim, but I am definitely going to inspect closer to see if we have any evidence of this issue.  Would it only be covered within the first year?

ScottG

Brad42 said:

My new tab 320 s has the black roof trim lifting away in places as well. Question- is this trim for looks as a transition from the plastic trim to the roof, or is it functional; actually sealing against water intrusion?

I understand the plastic trim to be purely aesthetic. I assume the construction underneath is the same as with CS models, which lack the decorative trim entirely.

Brad42

ScottG said:

Brad42 said:

My new tab 320 s has the black roof trim lifting away in places as well. Question- is this trim for looks as a transition from the plastic trim to the roof, or is it functional; actually sealing against water intrusion?

I understand the plastic trim to be purely aesthetic. I assume the construction underneath is the same as with CS models, which lack the decorative trim entirely.

Thank you for the reply. Just to clarify, you are referring to the black plastic rubber gasket trim? If that’s the case, I’m just going to make sure it’s secure and not worry about the raised edges too much. For me, they’re mostly at the top where it can’t be seen anyway.

ScottG

@Brad42, I guess I was thinking of the plastic trim and rubber gasket as a unit. While the gasket may help keep torrents of water from getting under the trim, it shouldn't hurt anything if it does, as it should just find its way out the bottom.

The gasket on mine sits pretty flat against the roof, but it has little ripples here and there and is by no means completely weather tight. I think it is mostly for looks to ease the transition between the plastic trim and the roof surface.

kaylevine1

also having that issue with the black trim but not as bad just a couple inches at the ends-I have some of that goop rv glue-was wondering what kind of glue might work-I think I can just put a little in there like you said with a flat head screwdriver and shove it back in maybe tape it temporarily till glue dries-I might try it on Sunday if it is not raining-pouring rain today-Kay Levine

MuttonChops

BrianZ said:

Question for @MuttonChops..
In your diagram showing the lifted trim, the screw appears to have been placed below the edge of the trim, thereby not fastening it to the wall.  Could you actually see that this was the case?  Or, is it possible that the screw was going through the trim but too close to the edge that there wasn't enough material to hold it in place & it pulled though the edge & out of the hole in the trim?  Either way it's a manufacturing defect, but wondering to what extent - whether it's the sole cause or a contributing cause in some cases.

Clarifications:
1]  I did not remove any screws in an attempt to see/confirm how the screws and Cap Plastic joined.
2]  On the very back of the Good/Correct Side I could see the Visor Rail and red of the plastic and the plastic was seated on the Visor Rail "step"
3]  I did pull up and push down on the Bad/Incorrect Side Cap Plastic and there was no movement, suggesting the Visor Rail screws did bite into plastic.
4]  My measurements (which are approximate) would support the Visor Rail screws biting into plastic, just at a lower point then would happen if correctly installed.

An improved cross-section diagram:

I was surprised that my measurements place the Visor Rails screws below the sidewall metal frame that runs along the side wall top edge.  - - - Measurement Error, or the Visor Rail is screwed into Azdel & Foam - - -

TNOutback

ScottG said:

@Brad42, I guess I was thinking of the plastic trim and rubber gasket as a unit. While the gasket may help keep torrents of water from getting under the trim, it shouldn't hurt anything if it does, as it should just find its way out the bottom.

The gasket on mine sits pretty flat against the roof, but it has little ripples here and there and is by no means completely weather tight. I think it is mostly for looks to ease the transition between the plastic trim and the roof surface.

Returning to this topic since I found similar on my unit during pre delivery inspection.  Specifically the rubber gasket material that is supposed to lay flat against the roof (not the rounded plastic cover).  Does anyone know definitively from the factory whether the gasket material is aesthetic, or functional?  I am worried that gaps between the gasket and the roof on top of the camper are entry points for water to get inside the wall.

MuttonChops

TNOutback said:

Returning to this topic since I found similar on my unit during pre delivery inspection.  Specifically the rubber gasket material that is supposed to lay flat against the roof (not the rounded plastic cover).  Does anyone know definitively from the factory whether the gasket material is aesthetic, or functional?

I thought @ScottG (or someone else) has spoken directly to NuCamp.

While investigating my T@B's lifted black rubber, pulled back on the assembly and looked under and could see some type of metal strip with lots of waterproofing goop connecting the roof to the side wall.  Could not get a great picture.

To fix my lifting black rubber (drivers side, aft only).  Cut some strips of 3/16" thick camper sealing foam and placed it under the black rubber to fill the gap.  Then used Shoe Goo to seal/bond the black rubber, foam, and roof.  So far it has not come apart and I've done a couple of power spray washes.  It also blends in enough that my eye does not spot the "defect" when inspecting the trailer.