Sorry, wasn't me, @MuttonChops. I think the gasket is purely cosmetic, though I can't say with certainty. It's certainly not watertight, though it may help to keep dirt and other debris from getting behind/under the plastic trim.
I'm pretty sure that somewhere I saw someone had sent this question directly to Nucamp and they responded "purely cosmetic", however, I would think that the rubber gasket would definitely help in keeping water and debris from getting up under the hard plastic trim, which is what covers the seal of the roof to the sides, which are supposed to have another layer of protection/cover in addition to the hard plastic trim.
My rubber gasket started coming off on the highway on a trip this summer. There was a section @ 5 feet long flapping in the wind. I was able to use some good ole' duct tape to keep it on until I got home from the trip, then ordered some shoe goo. When I got the goo, I cleaned up the glue from the duct tape and went all along the rubber gasket every few inches on both sides of the trailer and injected some of the goo into the channel and pushed it back on to the hard plastic trim, then put blue painters tape to hold it down till it cured, and it's on there very solidly now. I think the glue they use is just not strong enough to keep that strip in there or the channel in the rubber expands.
Some of the rubber trim was stuck on really good and some of it was clearly loose and ready to start coming off so I'm glad I did that repair job when I did.
I'm not going to be taking my unit back to the dealer for what I consider minor issues that I am able to fix myself vs dropping it off for several weeks and not having the use of it in the summer. My dealer is 2 1/2 hours one-way, so that means 5 hours to take it there, leave it for ? how long?, then another 5 hours to go back and another wasted Saturday to pick it up.
I want to fix what I can with as little hassle as possible--and this was a fairly simple and cheap repair job. Unless it's something major or I have no idea how to do it or if it could be dangerous if not done correctly, of course.
@jgram2 - wrong gasket. The gasket they are referring to is on the inside of the plastic trim. Keder rail is on the outside edge of the plastic trim (with that plastic insert we all remove and throw away!).
@jgram2 no the goo is nowhere near the Keder rail. The goo goes in the rubber gasket channel which is pushed onto the hard plastic trim that goes all the way around the roof on both sides of the trailer
In my case, it’s not that the gasket is unstuck but it is that the roof is dented in several places such that there is a gap between the surface of the roof and the gasket.
Interesting discussion. Our T@B 320S goes into the dealer tomorrow. The perimeter plastic has cracked and we've been notified the replacement is in from NuCamp.
On my 2018 I have trim expansion cracks in many places and the rubber trim gasket has also separated in a few places. My dealer is 300+ miles away so I'm living with the cracks since they are no longer covered by warranty. As for the gasket, I have been using Permatex black silicon gasket maker to re-glue it in place. It's holding up well.
‘18 Tab 320S- mfg’d 4/17, acquired 9/17 Spare & bike rack on tongue, Renogy 100w suitcase connection, cargo & door nets, sway bar, wired rear camera, Norcold aux fan, front window protection, frame mounted sewer & water hose storage, Krieger 1500w inverter w/100Ah LIFePO4. ‘17 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E- 5000# tow cap, 600# tongue cap ‘20 Honda Pilot Elite- 5000# tow cap, 500# tongue cap Huntington LI
On my 320, many of the screws that hold the plastic trim on are loose in many locations. I've snugged them up being careful not to over-tighten self-tapping screws.
The screw at the top where the trim steps down to form a slip joint was also loose. Note the miss-alignment of the trim pieces :
The flexible trim ("rubber gasket" on other posts, but my guess would be vinyl - though I don't know for sure) on the passenger side:
Fortunately, this trim appears to be entirely ascetic rather then to prevent water penetration - if otherwise, our trailers would surly leak. I will try cleaning the surface and prying the black trim back into the green trim as other's have done. Given the season in-which this post was made, I also believe that the small difference in the expansion of the different materials due to a substantial change of temperature exasperated this flaw.
Sorry, this is an old thread but for my clarity, this discussion seems related to the general reason Nu-Camp is saying they redesigned the trim/Keder rail arraignment. For any who have seen both do you think the new design will solve the issues this thread describes? I need my new trailer to come so I quit studying this forum and go out and do something in the trailer!
Snohomish WA, 2015 Diesel Grand Cherokee Sm@ll World: 2021 320S Boondock, 6V Pb-acid Shunt, Roof & Remote solar & 30A DC-DC Chargers managed by VE Smart Network
I have a 320 / 2020 and from delivery, the inner rubber trim is splitting, cracking not just lifting away, from the outer plastic trim cap. Warranty is until january 2021 so I think I should get it fixed. If this was cosmetic why would the company continue to install it since problems have occurred for years. I will wait till fall to take back to dealers. Wish I was more of a Ms fix it. But it came this way. Comments?
Hmm, have a 2006 T@B and both of the rear rubber seals have disappeared. Front seals are there; just no rear ones. Can you buy replacements for that old of a T@B?
Comments
My rubber gasket started coming off on the highway on a trip this summer. There was a section @ 5 feet long flapping in the wind. I was able to use some good ole' duct tape to keep it on until I got home from the trip, then ordered some shoe goo. When I got the goo, I cleaned up the glue from the duct tape and went all along the rubber gasket every few inches on both sides of the trailer and injected some of the goo into the channel and pushed it back on to the hard plastic trim, then put blue painters tape to hold it down till it cured, and it's on there very solidly now. I think the glue they use is just not strong enough to keep that strip in there or the channel in the rubber expands.
Some of the rubber trim was stuck on really good and some of it was clearly loose and ready to start coming off so I'm glad I did that repair job when I did.
I'm not going to be taking my unit back to the dealer for what I consider minor issues that I am able to fix myself vs dropping it off for several weeks and not having the use of it in the summer. My dealer is 2 1/2 hours one-way, so that means 5 hours to take it there, leave it for ? how long?, then another 5 hours to go back and another wasted Saturday to pick it up.
I want to fix what I can with as little hassle as possible--and this was a fairly simple and cheap repair job. Unless it's something major or I have no idea how to do it or if it could be dangerous if not done correctly, of course.
2016 Nissan Frontier SV 4x4 Crew Cab
T@Bit@t 2015 S Max Outback, ‘18 V6 4Runner
2016 Nissan Frontier SV 4x4 Crew Cab
T@Bit@t 2015 S Max Outback, ‘18 V6 4Runner
2021 T@B 320S Boondock, Chevy Avalanche, Happy wife.
Spare & bike rack on tongue, Renogy 100w suitcase connection, cargo & door nets, sway bar, wired rear camera, Norcold aux fan, front window protection, frame mounted sewer & water hose storage, Krieger 1500w inverter w/100Ah LIFePO4.
‘17 Honda Ridgeline RTL-E- 5000# tow cap, 600# tongue cap
‘20 Honda Pilot Elite- 5000# tow cap, 500# tongue cap
Huntington LI
The screw at the top where the trim steps down to form a slip joint was also loose. Note the miss-alignment of the trim pieces :
Sm@ll World: 2021 320S Boondock, 6V Pb-acid
Shunt, Roof & Remote solar & 30A DC-DC Chargers
managed by VE Smart Network